THOR Racing

Buy, sell, diagnose the means of failure and recondition turbos. According to their blurb. Pete

Any body heard of them? In Victoria Spring Business Park, Wakefield Rd, Heckmondwike in West Yorkshire. I've been sent promotional material and wondered if they had any reputation to speak of? Not that I need there services, just thought you might like to know. They talk about prices from £100. (I wonder how big that turbo is ) Regards Pete

Gavin, I've done this before for another owner. You get a limited increase in stiffness at lower speed. All I can do is increase the frequency of the speed signal the PAS gets to fool it into thinking you are going faster than you are and thus stiffen up the PAS. It did work. Chris, I'm a member of the SAE, which papers do you refer to? I haven't tried altering the valve control. It's not really an area I'm happy to modify normally. Steering and braking are very sensitive areas legally. So I would have to indemnify myself from any problems that would arise. Regards Pete

Nathan, I just have the weldable ones which is no help but if you find some I'd like to get some. Even just one and we can get them manufactured. Pete

I can supply UK or Jap spec speedo converters to allow re-calibration for diffs (Something you can do youself, just by turning a dial inside). Done this a lot lately. One for Fensport's Corolla GT4 and 2000ZX's with Skyline engines etc and other Supras with changed diffs. Regards Pete

I said COMPETITORS We are about to announce that there will be a biggest spectator bhp event with a prize from the organiser. (Spectators would pay THOR £50 for a power run (We just want to cover the costs of hiring the 20KVA generator, travel etc etc)) Not sure how many spectators we would dyno considering there's quite a few competitors, but as a competitor you'd get free TV coverage, especially if you have something of special interest. No guarantee of course (like everything) but they plan on following each competitor through the stages of the various trials and I think especially people like Leon Green TT, Terry Saunders TT, Rocket Ronnie GTR and Bruce Spence GTiR will be top of the list. You should all be able to see the gear at JAE on 26th/27th. This is highly dependant on the trailer being ready (Fingers crossed) The Dyno is at Heathrow now and we are awaiting customs clearance oooooooo getting exciting now..... As Terry has read this, can you PM me or email me if you've changed your rear diff? Same as Leon (Terry might know) The equipment can work this out but would be nice to have a starting point to speed dyno's up regards Pete

Thanks Mos, Regards Pete

So I did a search and found this.... 6 Speed (V160) / (V161) 1 3.827 / 3.724 2 2.360 / 2.246 3 1.685 / 1.541 4 1.312 / 1.205 5 1.000 / 1.000 6 0.793 / 0.818 rev 3.280 / 3.192 final drive 3.266(all TT) / 3.769(NA) So 5th gear is 1:1 drive and the diff ratios sort of match?? Pete

What are the rear diff ratios of the Jap Spec TT manual Jap Spec NA manual Jap Spec TT auto Jap Spec NA auto UK Spec TT manual UK Spec NA manual UK Spec TT auto UK Spec NA auto ?? and the gear ratios for the auto and manual boxes? Plus if your competing at TOTBII this year can I have your diff ratios as well please. There is going to be TV coverage of competitor cars on THOR's dyno trailer rig. As a competitor you get a free dyno power run. I think they are Jap Spec TT manual (3.266:1) Jap Spec NA manual (3.768:1) Jap Spec TT auto (3.769:1) Jap Spec NA auto (4.083:1) UK Spec TT manual (3.133:1) UK Spec NA manual ?? UK Spec TT auto ?? UK Spec NA auto ?? With D on an auto being 1:1 ratio. Which gear on the manual is a 1:1 drive? Regards Pete ps. I haven't used the search

Ahh ha! That's why I said short the switch as well. ie. remove the switch and blank it. That was the original question Pete

Not sure who gave you that gem but it's rubbish. The Jap spec and the UK Spec odometers are the SAME! They just have TWO surface mounted resistors which are physically located in different positions. Like a mode selector... See pictures linked below..... What you have to remember is (as already quoted) the box just counts pulses. It's how those pulses are interpreted as distance traveled that is changable. If you fit a UK spec (i.e. odometer with UK selector mode) odometer to a Jap Supra then you must feed it the ORIGINAL speed sensor signal and NOT the 5/8ths modified one. Vice versa. You could take a Jap Spec ODO and move the mode resistors to the Miles setting and put it in your UK Spec supra. Pete's Odometer stuff Check out the following section on the page.... Regards Pete

TRUE..... but you can short pins 3 and 4 of the motor plug to fool the spoiler ECU into thinking the spoiler is permenantly parked and hence if you also short the AUTO button as well it'll never try to lower it. Short pins 6 and 8 of the Spoiler Switch and short pins 3 and 4 of the Motor Plug Saves removing anything and can always be reinstated later. Should you wish. Also save the little hassle of getting the radio out of the way etc. Regards Pete

looking INTO the SENSOR or the BACK of the plug! with the air tube inlet pointing DOWNWARDS! They are as follows....from left to right... 1: 5V Reference 2: Signal output 3: 0V Ground. Regards Pete

Excellent. Thanks guys. Pete

Who knows anything about this? Is C16 race fuel just like really high octane pump fuel? i.e. is unleaded? Know of any good links on the web to read about it? Tried searching and thought it would be quicker asking you guys. I'm making sure that when we dyno a dragster "Gas Attack", that his C16 race fuel won't affect our wideband O2 sensor. This thing does 8.3s 1/4 miles, for a Ford Anglia this is good going Thanks Pete

can we confirm 100% that this ONLY started to happen AFTER fitment of the racelogic traction control? (Maybe it has nothing to do with it and you just mentioned it as it was related to traction) OR Has it always done this? If it has always done this (or just started recently with no apparent reason) then I'd look the integrity of your speed signal to the gearbox and engine ECU. Regards Pete

Adi, Correct! 100% The only way around this would be to fit a bigger MAP sensor. Say a three bar one so you can measure 2bar boost and scale the output for the ECU. The VFCC could then be set up to cut at a higher boost. So with a bit of adjustment you could use it, but ONLY with a bigger MAP sensor and a simple scaling OP-Amp. Regards Pete

TRL Performance: VFCC (Voltage Fuel Cut Controller) Installation can be found at http://www.trlperformance.com/vfcc.html Setting up the VFCC. 1. Flip up the lid to the VFCC. 2. Orientate the box so the following is true; a. The dial on top left (Marked “F.C”) which should be set at position 8 as default is known as the “Fuel Cut” threshold dial. b. The dial on top right (Marked “o’boost”) which should be set at position B as default is known as the “OVERBOOST” threshold dial. (The default settings are for a Toyota Supra 3.0lt TT) 3. Set your boost controller to the desired boost level for the car. E.g. 1.1bar 4. Rotate OVERBOOST dial to position “F” to raise the OVERBOOST level to the highest point. This is a measured 4.99V from the vehicles MAP sensor, equivalent to the maximum output level the MAP sensor can generate. Setting the FUEL CUT (By default this is set to position 8 = 4.2V which is for the Supra TT) 5. With the “Fuel Cut” dial set at position 8, drive the car and see if you experience fuel cut. Then……. a. If it does still hit fuel cut rotate the “Fuel Cut” dial ANTI-clockwise (to position 7 from 8 for example) and try again. Keep doing this until fuel cut is removed. b. If it does not hit fuel cut rotate the “Fuel Cut” dial CLOCKwise (to position 9 from 8 for example) and try again. Keep doing this until fuel cut comes back again. At the point where you hit fuel cut you know that the previous position was just right. (i.e. rotate the dial back, anti-clockwise, one position)) 6. Setting of the FUEL CUT threshold is now complete. This is the setting to be used for all cars of this type. (e.g. most Toyota cars have a setting of 8 or 9 as 4.2V is the fuel cut trip voltage to the ECU) You will observe that a small green LED (rectangular white blob) in bottom left hand corner, will illuminate if the VFCC is operational. i.e. is removing fuel cut. Boost pressure has to be above the factory fuel cut level for the device to activate. So you should NOT see any LED’s illuminated during idle. The LED’s might be hard to see so get someone else to shade the sunlight from the box and observe whilst you drive. You should NOT observe the RED LED (again a white rectangular blob) in the bottom right hand corner illuminating. Setting the OVERBOOST 7. Now set the OVERBOOST dial. (ONLY IF YOU REQUIRE THIS FEATURE) (For the Supra leave this as is for 18.5psi) The overboost is a safety feature of the VFCC to enable you to re-introduce the fuel cut at a higher level. So you still get the safety of knowing the ECU will hit fuel cut should something fall off the car or the turbo control mechanism fails. 8. Rotate the OVERBOOST dial ANTI-clockwise (from F to E) and again go for a drive. 9. IF you now hit fuel cut, rotate the dial one click clockwise (Maximum F, do NOT rotate from F to 0!). You have now set the maximum boost you will allow before fuel cut will be reintroduced. i.e. if you boost higher than that set by the boost controller the safety feature will activate. 10. If you do NOT hit fuel cut, goto 8. If you observe anything different to the above please contact Peter Betts at TRL Performance on 07802 412969

It would not be fair of me to say my units are better than anyone elses, all I will do is explain what mine does. Even if you don't consider the unit to function any better then it certainly is cheaper. The TRL VFCC is a Voltage Fuel Cut Controller. (Voltage as there are Frequency based systems as well) The unit has a user adjustable Fuel Cut threshold setting, which on most Supras just remains left at the default position. This REMOVES the fuel cut. But the device also has an Overboost threshold dial which will allow the user to reintroduce the fuel cut at higher boost level. This can be adjusted so that it never triggers and hence the VFCC can be made to REMOVE fuel cut altogether OR RAISE it. Your choice. The device is generic and used for many many car types, like all the Toyotas, Subaru's etc. I'm putting a "How to set the VFCC" section in the "settings" section of the BBS so you can read the process of configuring it. Installation wiring is all on my site http://www.trlperformance.com/vfcc.html The device is 35mm*35mm*10mm so is tiny and has a flip top lid so no screws to undo. Any more info please just ask. [email protected] 07802 412969 (M) Regards Pete

If you ever have any questions about TRL products or something similar and you want a special please just ask. [email protected] 07802 412969 (M) Regards Pete

Yep. I'll try TOTB2 as well. My fingers haven't lifted off the telephone in days arranging events. So far 28/29th June PistonFest 26/27th July Japanese Auto Extravaganza 3rdAugust TOTBII (not confirmed) 7th Sept. TRAX2003 (Silverstone race track) 12/13th Sept National Kit and Performance Car show. (Donnington Park Race track) 23rd Sept. Goodwood Sports & Supercar Day (Goodwood race track) If you know of any more decent shows, let me know. Moderators should maybe move this thread to Events. Sorry guys. Pete

Oooo... whad da ya mean!!! Easiest method of contact is via Mobile 07802 412969 or email [email protected] or now also [email protected] Desk phones are for people who sit at them all day, all week. I used to be one but just lately I'm less and less in one spot for more than a day. Blue arse fly comes to mind.... Don't hesitate to leave a message and your number. I'll always do my best to get back to you within the same day. Latest news is arrival end of July. (Wish it was sooner but banks and legal jargon is delaying things , not to mention the 12hour time difference to NZ) THOR will be at ...... PistonFest in Stratford Upon Avon on 28th/29th June JAE in Billing (A bit tight for actual demos, I hope so!) TRAX2003 Goodwood Sports & Supercar Day on 23rd September 2003 http://www.track-attack.co.uk Plus I'm trying to get along to Santa Pod at various times as well. Many more shows in the pipeline. Regards Pete

Terry, Mine is 625mm Front and 635mm Rear This is on Eibach's and KYB AGX adjustable shocks. 18" rims with 245*35 and 285*30 if memory serves me? (Just been to measure the height and cannot be botherd to go out to check the tyres again!) Pretty much the lowest Supra anyones seen! Bloody hard to get on any ramps as Leon will confirm! I now carry six pieces of 4"x2" as a pre-ramp lift! No idea why as Darrell Payne and Chris Rocks have exactly the same setup but are no where near as low! regards Pete

JohnK, I agree with the sentiments of close the bleeder until you fit a fuel cut defencer. Oh and of course your fuel consumption is in direct proportion to your right foot and the amount of boost. So more boost = more fuel used! No power increase is ever free! Also check your PM. Regards Pete

Standard boost for turbo1 is 0.75bar Boost for both turbo1 and turbo2 is 0.8bar (sometimes 0.85bar) With exhaust changes, removing CATs, you'd expect anything from 0.9->1.2bar. (or until you hit fuel cut at 15psi, nadge over 1bar) I realise this is a large change and is due to many other factors. I changed both my CATs for downpipes and still only boosted to 0.9bar (much to everyones amazement) Fitting a boost controller I could get 1.2bar so I was happy. It wasn't until I went for hybrid turbos that I found the car was underpowered. Turned out to be my back section of exhaust section had internally collapsed and was choking the engine. Sounds like you have replaced the back section as well, but did you replace ALL of it? or just the back box. Remember the two mid boxes that split going around the rear diff. Have you changed them? This is where my problem was. Use the bleeder "T" valve method (search will find stuff on that) and you'll get more boost. If the car struggles to get more power I'd look at the rest of the induction system. Air filter and exhaust system. Stupid thing but you are using Super unleaded and have a nice clean air filter and recently serviced spark plugs? Checking the BOV is also an excellent idea. Mine was working but the moment I upped the boost it knackered it. Didn't know again for quite a while, when someone else drove it. Got an HKS BOV and removed the stock one and whey hey! I was away! Regards Pete