andrew7
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surj Best finish I've found (apart from the Zaino) is in a product called Ultra-Ion, which is a waterless car wash.... It keeps the car much cleaner between washes (I had a black car) and is a superb finish/gloss etc. Plus which you can do the whole car/windows/wheels with it. Maintainence is dead easy. Just a quick soapless jetwash and then apply the Ultra Ion.. Great for taking to shows/meets too... Not cheap the first time you buy it, but it goes a long way and you save by not having to by all the other stuff you normally use on your car... Go herE http://www.go-waterless.co.uk/ultra-ion.asp
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Couple of funny thing I just heard from one of the witnessess,, The woman in the VW spun off and wrecked her car in exactly the same place a year ago.... the mind boggles... And the guy who ran up my rear told the police I was still moving when he hit me.... Good job I had a witness to back me up then.... His insurance co have egreed to pay for the rear damage now (which has written the car off basically)...
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Last night I was driving up the M5, returning from Plymouth.. Just south of Bristol, between junctions 19 and 20, there is a piece of the motorway that is cut out of the hillside giving drop-off views to one side.... Anyway it had been on-off wet all trip so I wasn't hammering it. I was driving up the straight incline towards the top, where the escarpment is. This road is dead straight and has recently been widened to 4 lanes.. There was only medium traffic so i was in the second lane. Anyway I was nearly at the top and had just overtaken an artic, when out of nowhere a hand grabbed my car violently, threw me across two empty lanes and into the concrete central resevation.. I slid up there for a while and then continued the pirouette and ended up stopped in the same lane I started from facing the right way.. I banged the hazards on straight away and then tried to restart the engine so I could get to the side of the motorway,,, You know what happened next....BANG, some tw88t ran right up the back of me, despite the fact that my hazard were on, the artic who stopped has his hazards on, tha guy who had been following me for the last 20 miles or so also stopped and had his hazards on.... And guess what? Fifty yards up the road buried in the left hand armco was a VW golf who had spun off 1 minute before me.... Car is a write off...... The cop who Interviewed me , amongst other things, said, "It happens here all the time".... WTF?... why are there no warnings then?.....I was livid,,, We get cameras put up everywhere where there is the slightest hint of "saftey issues" but no warning on a known defective bit of road whre there is accident after accident... And that bit of road has just been resurfaced.....what with I wonder?... Not a happy camper.. So if you use that road at all and are approaching that hill and it has been raining, SLOW RIGHT DOWN,,,,, I was not speeding BTW....
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Bottom line is, don't evet let anyone you don't know drive your car, buyer or otherwise...... What if he smashed it up and was not insured etc etc..... If they don't want to buy it unless they drive it themselves, tell them to sod off............
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Robert I just managed to correct that "niggle"....I think you'll approve now...
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Yes I noticed that too Robert...Script is Verdana, but that is just the way it came out, can't seem to change it....just typed the word download and that is the way it ended up... Thanks for your comments BTW... I just wanted to make sure that I came over as being sincere in my objectives towards the reader. Perceived insincerity is apparently the number one turn-off for surfers...
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Thanks for you comments mate... I tried Dreamweaver before using my present Software (SERIF)...I found it much too "professional".. couldn't get to grips with it, which is why I accepted one of the guys one here's offer to do the site for me (I wasn't asking him to do it for nothing either..)... Could you expand on the menu thing...I don't have that many links to go to in the site really... The other thing is I don't particularly want the menus to jump out at you, which is why they are not done in bold black with shiny buttons... they are there if needed, but I want the viewer to try and get through the script in a paticular order.. Appreciate the suggestions though.... Re splitting up the long pages, do you mean into seperate pages, or break them up with graphics or something?...
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Try the throw mate....amazing...it nearly pulls your arms out of their sockets!....
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He died last year at the age of 96 mate..taught for over 60 years and invented kinesiology for golf. I've got about 8 hours of DVDs here, never seen anything else close to describing the real golf swing the way he explains it, especially the throw from the top that he used.... Got a section where he is teaching people and he is creaming a 1-iron off the deck with ONE HAND!..... And anither part where Mhe is teaching Mike Dunaway, and Dunaway is hitting a 6-iron 215 yards (this was back in 1993!...) Awesome....
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Oly, If you haven't been there before, check out this website.. One of the guys has added about 70 yards to his drives over the last year (hit 328 yards in competion, level fairway, no wind) Go to the forum there is loads of info ther. I recon someone of your capability could add loads to their driving distance...Check out "The Throw".. came from James Braid originally I think... http://www.mikeaustingolf.com
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Haven't played proper golf for a couple of years Oly, due to working with a "highly recommended" teaching pro, who left me with wrist pains, back aches, pulled muscles..game went downhill so fast I couldn't believe it!...so have reverted back to Austinology (Mike Austin - do a Google...)...and was making good progress before the winter arrived.. Take you on at putting tho...... BTW the caretaker of the Austin method is coming to France (near Paris) in the new year to give free lessons (we pay for his trip and hotel only, should be split between 20 odd people I think) Good deal if you want to come along)....Mike used to charge up to $10,000 for a weekend course..
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Hi guys, I'd like to pick your brains if I may.... After getting nowhere with "web developer" off this forum all year, I have eventually done a self-update of my website (golf related). It is not quite as I planned, but I have been restricted with the web creator programme I used.. Any constructive comments/critiscisms would be welcome. Bear in mind that it is mainly designed for quick load times, rather than entertaining graphics. Site is at http://www.droprightin.co.uk Thanks...
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"The Hills have Eyes".... Couldn't stop laughing...too funny to be scary....
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I did state, " Apply the T-cut or branded equivalent"... Pheonix, I have been buffing cars with T-Cut since 1974. That is long before all these new "improved" chemicals came out. Never had any problem with it, as long as you use it the way I described above. And as I am still to this day (long after retiring from the trade) sought out by the traders who know the standard of my work, then I would say the results speak for themselves...
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Ewen, For future reference...DIY buffing..... The best way is to go to Machine Mart and pick up a buffing machine (this is a good lifetime investment to keep the value on all your cars). Also buy a couple of polyester buffing heads (they look like sponge)and an empty plastic spray bottle. Then, to be safe, don't use rubbing compounds, you can do a lot of damage. Instead use T-Cut. The technique is this: Apply the T-cut or branded equivalent to one panel at a time. The trick is to keep the T-Cut as wet as possible as you machine it. This is where your spray bottle comes in. Fill it with water and spray the area you are just about to buff. WARNING. KEEP THE ELECTRIC BUFFER AWAY FROM THE PANEL AS YOU SPRAY THE WATER ONTO IT, OTHERWISE YOU COULD HAVE A VERY QUICK DEATH!!!!!!! Now the job gets dirty so don't wear your best suit! Don't do more than 2 sq ft at a time.... Work the T-Cut from wet to dry with the buffer. This will happen naturally as the buffer produces a fair bit of heat. Decrease the pressure on the buffer as the T-Cut dries out, otherwise you will generate too much heat. Until you get more experience with the machine, keep the speed down to no more than 1000 rpm. The dry sworls of T-Cut you will end up with on the surface can usually be removed with soap and water or sometimes just applying your final polish will get rid of them. I usually buff the whole car and then wash it, and then apply the polish. Any swirls that don't come out can be removed by hand T-Cutting them before polishing. By using T-Cut a non-experienced person can get a good result without taking the risk of burning through the paint (that's why you keep the T-Cut wet to start with). You can go through the paint if you use the wrong technique or too coarse a compound, or if you try to use the machine at to many rpm. If you follow my above instructions you should have no problems. It is too much heat that generally does any damage as it adds burn-through to the spinning mop. One proviso, - avoid moving the buffer over projecting areas, ie, like the boot lip that curves up to meet the rear windscreen. You can easily take lacquer/paint off edges like that. Concentrate on the flat areas and you'll be OK. (Just FYI. I have been machine buffing cars since 1974, when I was in business offering a service to retail showrooms). Although I stopped doing it professionally, even to this day I am being asked to work with friends in their showrooms etc, because they know the standard of my work (er, thanks, but no thanks!! Just take it easy at first, until you get a feel for the machine. And stay away from those edges with the machine, do them by hand. If the T-Cut dried out too much before you have had time to do a particular area (especially if the weather is hot i.e. Oz), stop buffing and re-wet the area you are working on with your water spray and gradually do the whole car the same way. It used to take me about 4 hours to buff and polish a car if done properly and it is a messy job as the buffer splatters the wet T-Cut everywhere, so don't park up next to your neighbours Aston to do the job!!