Terminator

If they did build it I hope they had nothing to do with the fitting of the turbo.

It may have some Jun parts, Cosworth make some parts for Jun, The "vin plate" looks very amateur. Most likely a bit of wishful thinking in an attempt to find a Muppet to buy it. Anyone remember the Aston Martin Supra

When it comes to safety, no matter how minimal you want to go, you should stop at the removal of system failure warning lights. If you got an instant line failure on the road the first thing you would know about it would be when the brakes failed, if this lead to you causing a fatal accident how would you live with yourself? Removing a warning feature for the sake of a look, is just plain stupid and totally irresponsible. I wondered how far people might go with the minimal look, this is madness.

If the gunk on them contains any grease or oil, do not clean the the disc with the pads in the calliper, as the brake cleaner will just help any grease to soak into the pads.

Go with the LG. Excellent set, worth the extra £.

There are lots of options for throttle bodies for the MKIV, many that work in the same direction as stock, some use the stock TPS, why not look into TB's that are tried and tested. What size are you after?

These kits only fit if you have standard straight tire valves. If you don't they will not fit. I was told by the manufacturer that I could remove the sender unit from the valve stem, and stick the senders to the rim, but at my own risk and invalidating any warranty. Not trying to spoil any group buy, but be aware if you have angled valve stems.

I would bet on the bushes too, unless everything is in the correct position, the box feels horrible. Just the slightest play in the bushes, and the alignment error is magnified by the time the movement gets to the selectors in the box.

I am not suggesting it does not help by running the engine. However, as Toyota, don't mention it in their service manual, I would be concerned that the fluid did not flow through the system without the assistance of the brake servo.

I think 1.5L will flush out the system.

Changed the brake fluid on mine 8 times, not once with the engine running.

If you are looking for charge cooling better than; a well ducted, low pressure drop, highly efficient inter cooler ( so not and Ebay masterpiece) a properly controlled water injection system is the most effective.

If it is a standard dip stick tube, you should be able to carefully straighten it out a bit to get the proper height. Make sure you clean around the fixing hole in the sump as the chances are it is covered in fine grit down there.

The master cylinder will be fine with the K Sport brakes. You also have save quite a few Kilos compared to the UK brake set up. As for the profile of the callipers, the K Sport are slightly wider and higher than the UK calliper on the top shoulder, so you should get hold of a template and mount it on stiff card and try it against your wheels. Any wheels with spokes that curve inwards may have clearance issues with the K Sports. It is no good simply doing a visual check for rough clearance.

10 sounds very rich!

How nice does it have to be?

A great actor, I always enjoyed his performances. RIP.

Nice chap deserves all the help he can get. His abilities don't get better in his PM's "prick i cant be bothered?? unlike u ive got a life, i havent got 15 thousand posts on some stupid forum!! i only came on here to get some help and now ive sorted it i couldnt care less and wont be back on here again! i bet your some fat old bald git thats got no real mates so they have to talk to people on forums!! "

I think that went right over his head. Yet more text speak, and poor punctuation. Someone who can't be bothered.

Oh sorry my mistake. Not seen a stock rad for a while.

Never heard of a copper rad being made for the MKIV!! Are you sure it is grit? or is it calcium deposits? Any solids in the water system are best removed by draining the whole system pressure flushing.

I think the poster meant to say Buffoons;)

Just wait until a new religion is started.

Black and Decker are only any good for light DIY. hence the low sale price. Personally I would forget it and get a proper power tool.

Hello and welcome. Where ever those figures came from forget them. Fuel consumption depends how you drive and where you do the miles. When cars are maintained well, the differences between auto and manual are much closer than the figures you have given. The biggest difference you will find between auto and manual N/A cars will be the power loss through the different transmissions. You really need to test drive some cars to get a feel for the boxes and how power is delivered. I have driven Stock TT 6 speeds. Stock TT autos an N/A auto I would not hesitate going back to a stock TT auto as the box is so smooth and driven well with leave a stock TT 6 behind. The N/A auto I drove did not feel slow and had a really smooth power delivery, but it was a mint. As has been mentioned, use search and be very careful as there are more and more poorly maintained cars coming up for sale. Don't rush as prices are unlikely to go up.