Terminator

Why would you want to run one after the FMIC, surely that is a waste of a cold charge from the FMIC?

Hi Mate, don't know if you still log on, but you need to empty your in box.

Still available.

It is a RRPITA to get off and back on, changing the contacts is easy. There are some useful threads with pics of how to access bolts, they are worth studying before you get stuck in.

I am not sure, that rail will most likely take the smaller diameter JDM injectors. Not 100% as I have never looked at a Veilside rail, Nic would know.

No rail available, these are just a spare set I no longer need. Still available.

Price reduced to £255 posted - to UK mainland post code

I would seriously recommend going for an Auto TT, mine was a BPU auto TT for 8 years before I went for a single and six speed conversion. The auto box is fantastic and will easily be a better accelerating car than a 6 speed of the same power on the road, unless the six speed driver is amazing. You can pick up Auto TT's very cheaply. Everything you need for up to mid fives is already there on the car, as has already been mentioned, so will save you £'s. Get a good SMIC and you wont need to spend your cash a rad or deviate from or obstruct Toyota's excellent cooling air flow. You say you have made decision, but what happens if you still hanker after 700bhp, which believe me you probably will? If you start out with a TT, you can just improve upon what you have already done, no way can you do that with an NAT. Given the price difference between an NA and an Auto TT, I know which way I would go. However if you go with the NAT, I wish you ever success with it.

Totally agree with both Nic's posts;), forget N/A T and get a TT engine.

Rear sections of the TT auto and six speed prop are the same, front sections are very different. Having never seen a six speed prop, before my build, I got ripped off twice on here buying so called manual set-ups which turned out to be auto's:(

Still got these if anyone wants these, never used still in original box. Email only as I don't visit the forum often.

I have had Desire HD for a months now and it is a great bit of kit. Battery use is only an issue if you leave everything on automatic so it constantly checks for mails, stock and shares the weather, Facebook...... etc. If I check contacts and mails manually, and stop apps roaming when ever, two days plus is my average, it is quite easy to switch background roaming and push which is the real killer. It is a big screen which needs a lot of power, a dark background helps cut power used by the screen. When you consider that is really a high end PDA with a phone in it then heavy battery use is to be expected. I use mine more than my laptop when I am away from home it really is that good, plenty of apps to let me edit office 2010 documents on the go, send invoices, manage accounts. I got used to charging a phone once a day many years ago, so battery life is really not an issue, just have a few types of charger. I did hear that HTC were looking into a upgrade battery for the Desire HD, but have not heard any more since March. Sent from my HTC Desire HD

Did not see Chris's comment before I posted, sorry to bring it up again. BMW E46 secondary catches suffer badly from this , I have work on three now that needed blasting with WD40 and a lot of forcing the thing to move and free up to get them to "catch properly". Certainly worth a check at every oil change as a minimum, as catches get older springs and the pivots will weaken and the pivot point will get rough. Aero catches sound like a good idea, not much chance of leaving them undone

Well done, glad the air lock cleared. Good outcome.

Ouch nasty. What I can't understand is why the centre catch did not hold. About 6 years ago I was checking out the brakes after a fluid change and did not shut the bonnet fully. Went out onto the road and did a circuit of my local test track, at about 50mph the bonnet lifted, but the centre catch held it, I stop and shut the bonnet and the bonnet was fine. I know it does not help you, but I would be looking at fitting a new centre catch and mountings. I wonder if the bonnet lifters had anything to do with it? I did not have any when my bonnet lifted.

I just sent back my HTC Mozart, not because I did not like the phone, just the WINPHON7 OS just drove me nuts, I want a phone controlled by me not Microsoft. If I had shares in Nokia I would be worried right now as they have tied them selves to Microsoft and the OS is pants, with any half descent upgrade delayed until the end of 2011 which is far too long in this market. Cant wait to get my Desire HD.

The RAC don't supply straight heads. If you have air in the system it will expand the hotter it gets, if the rad cap is working properly it will let water out of the rad under pressure into the expansion bottle. A ten mile run wont be enough to show if the problem is still there, as you have displace some of the air but not all of it. So in theory you could dump a lot of water as the air expands, then air will be sucked in to replace the water lost. It wont take long for the cooling system to stop pumping enough water round the head to keep it cool, then you will need more than the RAC. Budget for £800 plus to replace the head.

200 miles with an air lock, could result in disaster, as you have not identified the problem.

These are still available.

No harm will be done using your method. I cleaned out my system with my previous engine using the mains to flush out everything letting water out through drain points and hoses ends until it ran clear, never bothered to run the engine.

Got a 2 year old Samsung laptop and the mother board has lost a small length of printed circuit on the charge circuit, near the DC socket, caused by loose hinge. Samsung in their wisdom, have not released replacement boards. So this £800 lap top is potential scrap. Anyone help? if so please email me, thanks.

I had a ride in a totally stripped out heavily modified RX7 about 500 bhp, it handled beautify, was as noisy as hell and pretty uncomfortable for me, being 6 foot. I think the engine blew a few weeks later, due to slight det, taking the tips of the rotors smashing the turbo to bits, a very costly mistake.

You will do far more damage to an engine buy running just for a very short time repeatedly over the winter, much better just to leave it and take it for a good long drive when you want to put it back on the road. I have opened engines that have not been used for years and they have been fine. I got an old Merc that had not been driven for two years, outside during all that time. Fresh oil and some work on electrical was all we did to it and it started once the fuel system was primed.

Engine oil should be checked with the engine at operating temperature, Toyota recommend leaving the oil to drain to the sump for a few minutes, not longer. I takes 1.5 litres to raise the level from LOW to FULL on the stick. I would suggest adding 1.5 litres then check level again, with oil at temperature. If you you order from Opie oils they will have oil to you next day, if getting oil is an issue. Toyota recommend checking oil with every new tank of fuel, so about 300 miles on a standard engine.

If you end up looking further than the Oddo, I have an auto speed sender for the box, if you want to try it, to eliminate the sender as a problem. Drop me an email if you want it as I don't get on here much these days.