Dr_Doom

If it's double decat then you must also have a restrictor ring fitted to prevent your turbos from over boosting and blowing up. The cutting out you mention is almost certainly boost cut which the ECU triggers at over 1 bar. Restrictor rings are usually set at around 1 bar although this changes depending on the car/mods. Have a read of this (appologies if you already have ) http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?94705-BPU-(Basic-Performance-Upgrade) Especially the Jspec part as that explains the restrictor ring etc. Either way you should definitely see a benefit swapping to grade 7 plugs.

Also, have you replaced 1 cat or both of them? There are two on the supra. If you've only replaced 1 then this is still likely to have raised the boost, just not enough to see boost cut/fuel cut. This only kicks in at over 1bar. Stock is 0.8.

That could be your idling issue. It's BKR7EIX. See here - http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?41927-FAQ-Spark-plugs I used to have the same issue years ago when BPU and increasing the plug gap a tiny bit fixed this (obviously you can't do this with iridiums) Also, while you're fault finding, have you checked to see if there are any fault codes stored on the ECU? It's easy enough to do with a paper clip; http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?35920-How-To-Check-the-diagnostics-codes Once you've done that, it might be worth resetting the ECU. When you start the car afterwards, the ECU self learns for around 10-15mins (just leave it idling, don't drive it). It'd be interesting to see if that makes any difference to your idle problem. Check for error codes first as resetting the ECU will wipe any stored codes

Dwarf

What mods does the car have? Are you BPU? I see you have a decat fitted are you still running stock boost? You might be better with grade 7 spark plugs instead of 6.

This thread is over 10 years old so i'm guessing petrol prices might have altered slightly?

PMd

Or, I have known people glue them when they break there and get away with it. You'd need some decent glue though

IACV VSV You can buy them new from Toyota/Whifbitz etc

Golf

There was this post yesterday where a member had plastidiped his white and it looks quite good! http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?323453 In terms of durability (before someone asks) I painted my front splitter with plastidip over a year ago and it hasn't got 1 stone chip in it yet.

If you're after a matte finish anyway I'd go with . It's fool proof and if it goes completely pear shaped you can just peel it off. Plus if you finally get enough money for a proper respray the plastidip will peel off and you'll have minimal prepwork to do. If you paint it with something like hammeright you (or the next owner) will probably have to sand the whole lot off before a respray which wouldn't be fun! There are loads of guides on youtube and a few people on here have already done it with quite good results.

Hi Simon, were you running these on a stock setup? Or a BPU setup but at stock boost? thanks.

Or £55 delivered fom ebay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DOX-0228-Denso-Lambda-Sensor-TOYOTA-/201447115338?hash=item2ee72f0a4a:g:-v4AAOSwl9BWGtVf Just had a search on here to check and pretty sure I got it right; http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?241338-tt-o2-sensor-£140-from-toyota&p=3060111&viewfull=1#post3060111

You can get the Jspec TT one from sparkplugs.co.uk for around £55 It's a Denso DOX-0228 Direct fit, same plug etc...

I bought some of this recently and it was also a red colour. I've never used it before though so I just presumed it was normal?

http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?136136-NA-to-TT-engine-transplant-step-by-step-guide-(Pic-heavy) All the info you need including parts list is in that thread. If you're fitting the 2JZ GTE engine from an Aristo into a Supra then you will need to change the sump as it catches on the subframe. A TT engine from a Supra will be a straight fit.

Yes, definitely. Dunk was spot on. See my post on this thread http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?327076-na-rocker-cover-torque&p=4077895&viewfull=1#post4077895

Most plugs have the part number on them. You can just make out from your pic - 11194. They all start with 90980 so the one your looking for is 90980-11194. It looks correct from the catalogue Nic posted up as well If anyone is thinking of replacing the connectors from the engine loom they're all listed here; http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?232824-J-Spec-Engine-Harness-Connector-Details&p=2951515&viewfull=1#post2951515

So do you think the chart is saying 10w30 is the recommended weight for a GTE engine startup (probably due to the addition of the turbos etc) but you would need to run 5w30 if you're starting the car in a cold environment? Otherwise, surely the chart would be the same as the NA (GE) one which just has one big arrow for 5w30 across the whole range?

They actually specify 5w30 for NA but for TT there's a temperature chart. It's pretty much 10w30 though unless you have temps lower than -18c The chart in the user manual suggests that 5w30 isn't great if you're stating your car at over 10c which is most of our summer months.

10w30 if he's TT 5w30 is NA

+1 for the Meguiars. I used the purple tyre gel stuff and it came up a treat. It's a lot easier than removing and painting, or buying a new one.

What about getting a set powder coated in metallic gold? Or possibly painted?

On mine it was between the passenger wing and the glove box. You have to take the glove box out and you can reach around to get at it