JamieP

No probs mate, i see it in the dark, out of a window about 2 years ago but knowing you it will be lovely.

Yeah, gave them to Noel for his Porsche.

£300?

PS2's I was same spec, 900bhp 800ftlb, they never gripped as well as the 285/30/18 R888's I had on previously. I got my RA-1's from my contact at Prodrive. I never looked for much in 17", the MT street radials i had in 275/40/17 gave superb grip.

As far as i read it Tony is saying anything above a stock rev limit is your risk to take and not your mappers, you are not an engine builder and wont know the answers to his questions, all you have done is given a stock engine a refresh with some new bearings/bolts, myself id take the risk and rev the nuts off it as its not a big money engine, see how far you can push it and in the mean time build up a well speced short block for when the worst happens:D

Ive been through all this trying to get good grip, im there at last. I found the PS2 very hard and didnt give me great grip, they do come up wide, i had 315/30/18 on a 12" wheel and they never looked stretched at all, with the right tyres you will get the power down, with my treaded avon tyres i can lay down 800ftlb in 2nd gear but they are not strictly road legal. You cant go wrong with R888's but not a great winter tyre, i have gone in the middle now, Toyo RA-1 in 335/30/18 and they seem a good compromise to everything for me, they give great grip and are a full treaded tyre.

Price reduced and chucking in free delivery in the uk.

They work well, indcators are hard to reach unless you go with a stubby boss.

I know what you mean but it depends on tyres, "r" tyres always seem to come up a bit skinney compared to something like a michelin pilot sport, Whifbits cars run 295 R888's on 10" rims. Is the idea of going 35 profile over 30 for grip or comfort? 35 profile will give better straight line grip over a 30 profile but 35 dont seem widely available in sticky tyres.

My Nur rear wings are about 65mm wider each side but them wheels did sit about 15mm in on mine. Fronts depends if you machine a litte off the back like i did on mine, id test fit them, you might need to roll/pull the front arch before you cut and fit the veilside fenders, maybe even space the front fenders out a tad.

You going to fit the wheels before the arches go on? i would just to check clearance, i think you will need o cut away a lot of the stock arch.

No, now im using the fikse wheels i dont have to.

They are going to be hard to find, loads of 10" wide wheels about but anything wider are few and far between, Volk TE37 come in 10.5" wide 45 offset, other than that id look towards a set of image split rims.

At a guess I'd say he is talking to heckler.

I stayed supertech.

Id go dual valve springs then up the rev limit to something like 7800-7900 should be plenty of revs for that turbo. I made the mistake of going single supertech valve springs in my last build and we think i was getting valve flutter, my power stopped dead at about 6500rpm where it should still have been climbing fast to my 8200rpm rev limit, running a to light a spring on a big turbo/big rev 2jz wont let the bucket follow the profile and performance is compromised. http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c338/jamie450x/894bhp002.jpg Its all being changed now and if my power keeps rising this time as it should i hope to hit the 1000bhp mark with ease.

Well done mate:)

Have you done anything with the head other than cams?

Nice work Dan, cams will bring that alive, peaks about 5500rpm and stays same till rev limit.

A slower spooling turbo will be less stressful on the engine for sure, push it hard i say, worst happens fix it.

I would.

What ecu are you going with?

Will try my best to come over.

I spoke with Paul and he seems on the case Dusty.

They are named ID2000, they flow 2000cc at 3 bar and 2200cc at 4 bar.