cainhead

The car has run since the turbo and ecu was installed ad mapped by Romian at Syvecs, and has no issues what so ever whilst running. Have managed to connect to the ecu when it's running but can't see any issues on the software but I'm not an expert with the Aem software. The car starts randomly and I know when it's going to happen as the fuel pump primes. It's like the ecu has suddenly woken up. Ecu has 12v's on all pins that power is meant to run through. Basically I sit there turning the key back and forth to the on position until the pump suddenly primes to which it always starts.

Anyone? Only asking as I plumbed the fuel ecu back in with the 12v mod and relay and suspicions confirmed the fuel ecu is fine. The main ecu is working intermittently. Just need confirmation on the question in my first post. Cheers

Have pm'd you

Bump

Okay so some people may have seen my previous thread about my car intermittently starting after fitting a single and a AEM V2. I have checked nearly everything and cant find the issue. All sensors working, fitted new fuel pump etc etc. Also having trouble getting the AEM software connecting up and also cant get the car to my garage as my mechanic is away. Its looking more like a fault with the ECU but to confirm I need to know a couple of things. 1 - When the ignition is turned to on, does the ecu send a signal to the fuel ecu to prime the fuel pump before it receives the signal from the cam and crank sensors? The reason i ask, is that the first issue I had was fuel pump not priming, which i believed to be the fuel ecu, however swapped it out and nothing, so to get it started I had to do the 12v mod. However I think that only masked the problem as the car still only starts intermittently. So my plan was to fit the fuel ecu back in with a relay as I need a 12v supply for the walbro 450. Then if the fuel pump primes intermittent but the car fires each time that happens it a sure fire issue with the ecu and not any of the sensors/timing star. Also I have checked all 3 power sources to ECU with multi meter and all getting power. Last thing I could think of is that one of the grounds is bad from the ecu which I will check later. Sorry for the long winded post but wanted to give all details. Many thanks in advance for any replies.

Bought the ECU of Keron so no lead or software. Have ordered the lead and downloaded the software so will try that first. In regards to the easy start how does that work on a single turbo. Also I do have a Aermotive fuel pressure which was bought and fitted at Whifbitz along with new rail, injector and filter. When the pumps running you can feel something running through the lines in and out of the regulator, and when running I don't have any issues and afr looks normal. The RAC man did a spark check and said there was no spark but when I checked the coil packs they did have power?

Sorry to revive this but still having issues. Managed to get the car started and thought I had fixed the issue. Changed plugs, new fuel pump and things were working. Went out at weekend all okay, went home to pick up the missus and wouldn't start. Tried and tried, key in click immobiliser loads of times car cranks okay then after 15 mins it fires. It stutters for a second and struggles if you hit throttle, but after 30 seconds or so it runs and drives the best it has since I bought it. Again tried to start today and same thing 20 mins trying then out of nowhere it fires. Have checked resistance of all sensors from pins at ecu and all correct. Will check crank star tomorrow as that's only thing left from suggestions, but why would it fire intermittently if that were broken. Could it be loose? Could ECU be faulty. No idea any help much appreciated

Anyone know the specs of part number 90080-10195 flange bolt that holds the coil pack bracket onto the block. Can't find any uk sites that sell them. Will try Toyota in the morning but wondered if it was fairly generic. Would it need to be a specific material to withstand the heat. I sheared one if mine but managed to get it all out. Cheers

Does the Battery clamp come with the metal rod that it bolts on to. If yes Ill take it please. Also do you have the heater controls and how much. Cheers

Just bought a Walbro 450 to replace my shot Bosch 040 and the connecter is the other way round. Anyone know why this is. Are the uk and jspec different. If so can I just cut the connectors of each pump and solder together. How would I seal them? Also my hanger doesn't seem to have a base on it, it's connected with a large jubilee. So my question with that is how far down the hanger would I mount the new pump? Cheers

Thanks Lee, have sent you a pm about the ecu.

Some advice needed. After going single I have had some issues (some may have read my last thread on breaking down earlier in the week). Anyway looks like it's a fuel pump and fuel pump ecu issue. The fuel pump stopped working and the only way to get it going was to bypass the fuel ecu with the 12v mod. It now takes a few turns to get it fired and initially any revs causes the car to stutter like is being staved of fuel. The pump is a Bosch 040 and excessively noisey which leads me to think it's on it's way out. So my initial thought is to buy a Walbro 450 and maybe a new fp ecu. However if I do this should I still do the 12v mod with a relay, and should I upgrade the wires etc. I have searched this but there are loads of opinions. The car is currently running around 450hp as I need to change the gearbox but the plans are for 650 as all other areas of the car are upgraded to support this. Also where's the best place to get a new fp ecu. Ideas, comments rude jokes all welcome:d Cheers

Coil packs tested and all connectors getting 11.3 volts. Completely stumped and incredibly frustrated after putting a lot of money into it and was first drive back after picking it up from garage. One minute pulling great then stop for some food and thing won't start. Arghhhh. Only thing I can think of before trailing it back to garage is maybe plugs. Apparently the ones I'm running have a slight misfire and need warmer ones which I've ordered, and other thing is if someone can help me out with Aem software to check faults.

Not had a chance to check the coil packs yet but I did remove the cam sensors which were a little grubby. Cleaned them up and replaced but still nothing. I checked the current of both sensors and the crank sensor and they are all within the recommended ohmns readings. If they were shot would I still get a reading? Also I found the correct cable to hook up to ecu and the software download from the AEM site, however im not comfortable connecting up as I dont want to wipe anything. Does anyone know how to connect up to AEM V2 and just check faults. Cheers

Thanks again for walking me through that, have just had a quick check on the sensors and all plugs are in wires look intact, apart from the front cam sensor orange wire a split in the sheath, however wire looks intact. Bit grubby inside the terminal. Manged to get the sensors out, will give them a clean, but do you know if you can test the sensors or their terminal. I used a multi-meter with the ignition ON, but didn't get anything. Will try the plugs shortly. Cheers

Hi Chris, thanks for the reply. Off to check the plugs, wiring and sensors shortly. Do you know if its obvious which is positive on the terminals? Are you meaning run the negative probe to the chassis. The second step might be a bit much for me at the moment but appreciate the advice. Will check the simple bits first. Forgot to say ECU is AEM V2, but I dont have the leads/software? Cheers

My issue is that the car is now at home. Could I test the voltage with a multimeter. If so do you know what voltage im looking for and which pins on cam and crank sensors? Cheers

Did read something about that on another thread. Any idea how you check that. Cheers

Just had some new info, apparently whilst being mapped with the AEM yesterday it would not start and cam sensors had to be swapped around. Reading a bit more into it looks like that would stop a signal being sent to get a spark. Hoping that it's just the sensor. On that note does anyone around the London/Surrey/Berks/hants way got a cam sensor I could borrow to test the car. There's beer in it for anyone who has. Cheers

Cheers, wish it had finished as it started. Was really enjoying the car this afternoon. Missed my birthday dinner but ended with a tin of beans and a bottle of very good Californian red wine to ease the pain.

Did yours allow the engine to turn though when the connection was bad. My thoughts were that if it were the immobiliser it would be the connection that allows the spark but knowing which or where that is could be tricky.