cainhead

Many thanks for that

Can somebody clarify a few bits, better yet just point me in the direction of a how to bleed brakes step by step instructions. I have abs, which seems to be the bit I don't get. The pedal hits the floor and barely stops the car. I hope it's just air in the lines but if it's master cylinder etc then so be it but I still need to check simple things first. At least get them working enough to get it to my garage. All help greatly appreciated

Yeah tried pumping the pedal, still the same. Will bleed the system tomorrow. Cheers for the replies

As per the title. Just fitted new fmic and the cars been sat not really moving for about a month. Went to take it out today to test the ic and get the shock of my life when I got to the end of the road. Can't see any leaks under the car/around brakes. Fluid was very low but it worked when I last used it. Saying that my last time out was a track day at SPA and the brakes got a hammering. Maybe just air in the system but not sure what a master cylinder problem would feel like. Tried topping fluid up but still not much use. Feels like the pads just makes contact when the pedal is all the way down. Any thoughts, things to look for. Cheers

Will order some up next week, cheers for all the help

Doesn't seem to be leaking, just thought it would be easier to leave the stock one on if it doesn't need to be removed

If I leave the stock on in place will I lose any boost. Cheers for the replies

Quick question. Just fitted my hks ssqv on the inlet manifold pipe and in a different thread was told to remove the stock one and bung the end. Can anyone tell me if you remove the stock one completely and bung the metal ends, or just remove the the actual bov and bung the rubber hoses. Cheers for any help.

Thanks everyone for your comments, thats a great help, will get some bungs ordered.

Hello, I have just fitted a fmic with a hks ssqv bov mounted in the pipe going into the inlet manifold. Do I need to remove the stock bov at all from the turbo side. Thanks in advance for any help

Hello mate, sent you a pm as I maybe able to help

Ok found the problem. Its the plate that holds the studs and go's through the bearing. Its warn down about half a mm for exactly half the length of the bearing. I done need the whole hub but just the plate so not side specific. Does anyone in or within 2 hours of London have one I could come and collect either tonight or first thing. Im getting pretty desperate as my ferry is tomorrow. Any help really appreciated My number is 07769 727342 if you can help

thanks for the reply's. Is there an easy way to look at the CV joint.

Meant to be off to spa tomorrow and it's all gone wrong in the week before. My rear passenger wheel is making a horrible grinding noise, but gets worse when turning right. It sounds like metal on metal and speeds up with speed. It's got a bit of a clicky metal sounds when going really slow. The wheel bearing was changed not to long ago and it's just had new brakes. It seems to get a littlle better when you pull the handbrake. Took the handbrake shoe off completely and still got the noise. Just spent 4 hours taking things on and off and still no change. It could still be the bearing as we had trouble getting the spacers off last week and we had to bang a socket onto the nut pretty hard. But it's not the normal continuos noise you normally get from a knackered bearing. Any thoughts and help very much appreciated as I really need to leave by Saturday. Cheers

Yeah got that one cheers, going to try it tomorrow once I have the intercooler pipes back on. Where did you get replacement VSV's from?

Ok I see. Yeah I would say it dumped more fuel in as I had a lot of black smoke. However still doesn't sound like any plugs are missing, but will take a look tomorrow. I took off all the inter cooler piping gave it a clean and put it back together, unfiortunately the bracket that holds the main pipe underneath the radiator had rusted and the bolts sheared. I put the pipe work back on making sure it was connected securely and took it out. Just as the second turbo came in one of the pipes popped again. But just before it did it looked as if the turbo was boosting again and felt good. Hoping that I can fabricate a bracket and that's problem solved. If not will try ttc. Thanks for the help

I have just taken the inter cooler pipes of and some of the connections were not great. Also the smic looks terrible, can't see much light through it. Whilst the pipes are off would it be worth giving them a clean. They are a little oiley inside

No did none of this, how would I reset the ecu, and why would I need to change the plugs. Cheers

Thank you for posting that. It's a good read. I have a feeling it's the inter cooler pipe as I replaced this about 3 weeks ago and it popped of I over fuels the engine. I don't think I have reconnected it properly. Will check this first. Did you find any benefits with running ttc? Cheers

Yeah seen a couple of times will have a good read through tonight and get my head stuck in the engine tomorrow. Anyone know the cost of replacement turbos and a good place to get them done, and how long it normally takes. Just thinking ahead

Hello mate, just found a guide to this online so will have a go tomorrow. Thanks for the post

Do you know of a guide anywhere so that I could have a go at checking on this if I can't find a faulty pipe

Anyway of checking this without taking half the car apart

Boost gauge should read about .85 bar on second turbo, but struggling around .5 Will check the vac pipes tomorrow when I can see in the light. I'm hoping it's that

Anyone any ideas. Just started tonight and I'm meant to be off to SPA on Friday. First turbo seems fine and then power drops a little more than normal between turbos then car really struggles with the second turbo and juddered a little. Doesn't seem to be smoke coming out. Any ideas, all replies greatly appreciated. Thanks