cainhead

Hello, Has anyone managed to replace the starter motor with anything other than a genuine Toyota one. Mine is almost gone and i'm between getting one of the refurb kits or buying one from whifbitz. Just wanted to see if any one has used any of the cheaper alternatives with any success. Cheers

Hello, quick question. Which fuse is the reverse light fuse. I’ve looked on all the diagrams and can only find tail lights. Nothing for reverse or back up. Does it use the tail light fuse? Reverse lights stopped working ages ago and haven’t bothered as not part of the MOT but cars on axle stands so give me a chance to check the plug off the gear box but thought I’d start with the fuse. cheers in advance for any help

Yeah all sorted, got home last night. Thanks Keron for the quick turnaround part arrived about 1pm. Took 20 mins to fit and M1 was clear all the way back to London. Just glad it broke 1 mile from my friends house just meant my trip was extended by a couple of days.

Hello I'm in a spot of bother. Just left cold stream in the Scottish borders and had a bang in the engine. Turns out idler pulley bearing has sheared. Annoyingly it's not that old. Anyway is anyone close that may be able to help with a spare/lend of a pulley and I'll mail it back to them next day. Breakdowns on the way but there saying 4hours. So if anyone can help before then it would be much appreciated as I don't really want to sit in a recovery truck for 6 hours. Cheers

Thanks for the reply. I had it in my head paint first but for some reason starting doubting myself. In terms of the wax/protecting what would you recommend for the exposed underneath.

Hello, Finally got back under the car today to continue on my project. I’ve cleaned all the surface rust off and degreased the underside. I’ve got the 3M cavity wax to coat the underneath and also want to paint it to have a clean look. So my question is (excuse me if it sounds stupid), what’s the best process. Should I paint first then apply the wax, or other way round. In my head it was paint first as I was worried the paint would not adhere to the wax but now I’m not sure. Any advice much appreciated

Tuesday BUMP,

Isotta steering wheel in Ice White (Light Grey). Has a small piece of the chrome flaked off (visible in picture), and has been driven for roughly 30K miles so some wear. However no tears in the leather or frayed stitching. £120 ono plus delivery

They are painted white so easily changed if needed. Pm me if so interested.

Hello, Moved house so having a clear out. All parts are used and plus postage Full UK decat with racing cat SOLD Battery relocation box - £40 has a few holes drilled in the bottom from fitting but has he clamp in there. Stubby aerial conversion SOLD - Hardly used, change for a cleaner look Fuel ECU £20 - Bought from SRD as I thought mine was broken but didnt need in the end UK fuel rail with 550cc injectors - SOLD was removed during single conversion and was working. UK turbo manifold - £50 also removed when converted to single rear light lenses £5 each. I have loads of these so just ask if more needed. All other parts £10 each Resistor pack sold Battery tray sold Coolant overflow bottle sold Happy viewing

That was me, having my weekly run out. I imported it using Bansai cars about 13 years ago.

Replacing all my fuel/brake lines and wanting to update the brackets that hold them under the car. I’ve seen a few places on eBay etc that are selling them but they seem really expensive and price is increased as most have to be shipped from AUS/USA. Is anyone making them over here. I swear I’ve seen something recently about this but can’t find it anywhere. Surely these could be 3D printed. Anyone have any info. Cheers.

Okay got them off, managed to jam a bar between another bolt and the subframe to stop the drive shafts spinning. The the breaker bar got them off fairly easily. Also I keep saying drive shafts but I mean axels. Cheers for the help everyone

Not tried those bolts yet, it’s the drive shaft ones going into the diff I’m stuck on. I’m sure those two will also be a pain.

Thanks for the info, will give them a shout for a quote.

Brakes are all off as I removed the hubs. Could put it in gear just worried the pressure against the diff might damage it, or is there no chance.

Getting frustrated with this now. At the point of removing the drive shafts from the diff but now the Allen key bolts holding them to the diff won’t budge. I’m using a impact wrench and they have been soaked twice overnight in wd40. Trying to find some way of using a breaker bar but the shafts turn as you would expect. Had a search but most results are about getting the shafts out of the hub. Cheers

Thanks for the advice, I’ll attack them again this afternoon. Whilst we are on the subject of removing all these parts, what’s people’s opinions on how to restore subframes, suspension parts etc. I was thinking of shot blasting most parts to strip them back/clean surface rust then recoating with some sort corrosion resistant paint, possibly powder coat some parts. Looking for any advice on what to and what not to do. Cheers

Hello, In the process of removing most of the rear subframe and hub assembly. But im a little stuck. I have all the connections to hub off/disconnected including handbrake axle nut etc but the hub is not playing ball. Its been a while since ive done the bearings on my other supra and cant remember for the life of me if its something simple im missing. Or is the hub just corroded onto the driveshafts Anyone have any tips/ideas. All appreciated as it was all going so well. Even got the ABS sensors out without destroying them. Cheers

Okay thanks Chris. It was mapped a few years ago but the issue is only recent. I’ll get a good look at the map and logs a little later. I have to go outside to get to the garage so I’ll get my dry suit on!

Thanks for the info Chris, I’ll take a look at the rail today and down load the log off the AEM ecu. It’s a whifbitz top feed rail and kit with a fuel lab FPR if that makes any difference. What pressure value should I be getting? I checked the resistance on the coolant temperature sensor and it seemed about right according to Andy’s chart, and it was getting voltage (5v) at key on. In terms of measureing in real time I guess cutting a small section of the wire sheath away on the plug wires to allow contact for the volt meter would do it. What should the voltage change too?

I don’t leave the car unlocked enough or for long periods of time to really answer that. My worry is the AEM not shutting down properly due to the immobiliser and drains the battery somehow. As for the idle it’s not just cold starts. I’ve reloaded the original map a few times as I had no issues like this for the first couple of years. This only really started last summer. Since then I have been replacing some of the main ignition parts for brand new to try and sort. Cheers

Hello, Got a few issues with the car starting and trying to work out if maybe they are linked. The car is a UK single with an AEM V2 ECU. Sometimes when I try to start the car it turns over fine but doesnt start. I have to turn the key back a click and then back again. Once I here the fuel pump prime i know it will it start. But on occasion I have to turn the key back and fourth a few times. I spoke with AEM and they were very helpful, the guy said it sounded like something aftermarket was interfering with the shutdown sequence. Basically making the ECU think its not shutdown and therefore not resetting itself to the start sequence. He backed this up with by giving me a test to do involving turning the key back taking of the negative terminal of the battery, replacing it then turning the key back to on. Fuel pump primes every time. My guess is the immobiliser is the offending item. Just wondered if anyone else has had this issue. Im also getting a flat battery quite regularly. Battery is a new redtop and I have also replaced the alternator for a brand new one. Could this be linked to the immobiliser? I was thinking I would try and disconnect the immobiliser and see if that helps the starting and battery drain. Also checking that the alternator is sending charge back to the battery. Could anyone recommend the best way to test this? Lastly when the car fires it splutters a bit, i give it a little gas and it coughs itself into action. But 1 in every 4 starts it wont hold idle. It just stalls. It still drives but I have keep a bit of gas on when coming to a stop. Strangely it sorts itself out after a while driving. I put a brand new TPS in but still doing it, but as I say it's only 1 in every 4 starts. Apologies for the long winded emails but thought I would try and work on all my issues in one go as some may be connected. All replies and help much appreciated. Cheers -

Could I get a pic of the steering wheel please, what’s the condition like. Cheers