and1c

Plus $500+ shipping

Pistonheads is a much better place to sell it mate

Are you fitting them yourself Shane?? Im not quite sure what your asking mate

Does anyone have any idea how much the box of SSTs is for the V160? link

What model is your Supra mate? Idle issues could mean faulty Idle Control Valve....ICV

Dont forget that even if you bought the R34Gtr... the pattern and costs will be exactly the same.Only even more pricey At the end of the day its the wrong type of car to buy if you dont expect to want to mod it and spend £££ on maintaining it.... No regrets Supra 4 Life

Erm. NO When you go standalone ECU, you also make the choice to go standalone ECU Map. Standalone ECU maps are very subjective depending on engine specification, the modifications done to that engine (eg, compression ratio, stroker motor etc), and the ancilleries and other components the engine is running eg/ Turbo Specification, Injector Sizes, Fuel pressure, downpipe and exhaust system diameter, Intake pipework diameter, intercooler size bla bla bla basically meaning, you CAN run a basemap for a similiar spec engine and turbo setup to get you to the dyno and for a few test runs. You cant run the car like that forever though... I would say your best bet is to research one of the respected AEM tuners on this board and arrange to take the car to them for a custom mapping when its ready. They may well be able to supply you with a conservative base map to get you driving so you can drive your car there. SLD and FCD would not apply to a standalone...

Thats good to hear as Im going to be looking for a V160 for my mk3 conversion in the near future.

or when refitting used ones as well I should have added

I should have said about the corrosion factor...sorry. If you havent already fitted the new one what I have done in the past to prevent a new one from corroding in over time is to smear Copaslip carefully around the press fit face (NOT the end that reads the teeth!!) and that has totally prevented seizure the next time I needed to remove it

Yes. Pull to remove it. You wont damage it as long as your careful

This is a good article I read recently on battery conditioners mate... Auto Express battery conditioners article Seems the CTEK 36 Charger & Conditioner is definately the one to go for

Here you go mate Factory suspension manual I uploaded it for you in pdf format

Sounds like the Diff. As above, drain and replenish the diff oil (correct oil only as Toyota recommend) and see if the noise goes away. Not a massive job to replace the Diff. parts arent cheap though if you go for new OEM...

Wow. Cam cover holding the cams in eh? Sounds a bit of a weird engine that one

No problem, it would be useful if you could post a picture up and people can then tell you if its an on centre housing or tangential before you buy an incorrectly fittin new turbo!. I would hazard a guess that it is an on centre exhaust housing though

Your turbo will be at most a T3 being a GT 28 I would guess. That is the flange size between turbo and exhaust manifold . GT30R and GT35Rs both come in T3 size fitment. The GT35r also can come with a t4 housing but will be no use to you in this size! hth

Hmm, well if you can speak to the previous owner or if you find any Clifford hardware, let me know the numbers on it I used to install a few and ended up with quite a collection of engineers manuals. I would hazard a guess that it is a Concept 50,60 or concept 500 or 600 Got to hedge my bets a little

Do you know what model Clifford it is Homer? I may have the engineers/install manual and could email it to you if required..

Yes they do! So that drive can be maintained to the wheels when the suspension is moving up and down

Longer responses More eloquence and more information Will enable people to provide you with MUCH more help

Im pretty sure the Na and TT diffs are different but hopefully someone can chime in and confirm whether its a fact or not

I meant to ask. Is wheel hop experienced by any other NA-> TT conversion folks? What motor mounts are you using? if they are not in tip top condition they could be contributing. Also, to try and answer your questions 1/ yes, this could be a BIG issue and probable cause. See my post above and the propshaft pdf 2/ Worth doing. Also check they are in good condition. 3/ Bit of an open question this one!! The power hike from a TT motor will certainly put a lot more stress through your drivetrain and chassis. Therefore you need to check and replace any possible suspect parts... Top mounts should be checked/upgraded I would suggest. Clonk could have been the diff if your propshaft is mis aligned but its just guessing without more info. if you can add a summary of your cars spec it would be handy too mate. eg/ transmission etc

just seen your from Bucks... you may need to find a good place a bit nearer