Steve Cargill

If probably depends on the dempening of the display. If the spike is short then then the analogue gauge may not react quickly enough to display it. The digital display will probably display the peak every 1/2 second or so.

That isn't double declutching, that is just matching the revs so it's smooth when you bring the clutch up. You wouldn't be in the power in a manual though, as changing from 4th to 2nd implies a big drop in speed so you'd have no boost left anyway and have to change quickly up a gear very quickly. Besides, if you are driving hard in an auto you'd probably be in manu mode anyway which gets you halfway there. My opinin is that a manual suits a small nippy car, the Supra is much more suited to an auto.

The trap speed and RWHP are tightly related and largely unaffected by how good or bad the launch is. The formula (ULWeight*2.2) * ((TermSpeed/234)^3) can be used to work out the RWHP, or you could tinker to get the trap speed based on weight and power. Have a look at a table I did a while ago where I ran this formula against real times, with a few exceptions there it's pretty good. Note that these were mainly street cars on unprepared tarmac http://www.cargills.demon.co.uk/supra/SpeedTable.htm

Personally, I blame it all on sausage fingered mechanics with the finess of a road digger, nothing to do with age and heat stress on them.

If you've never done it before be super careful with the coil pack connectors. They will be brittle and break easily. Before you ask they are part of the main wiring harness. I think somone has manage to get replacments though, but best not to break them. If they do get broken then make sure you put them back on the roght way around.

Chase, stock fuel cut is under 1 bar, it's about 14PSI. Stock plugs give up at 15-16 PSI, so you'll hit stock fuel cut before stock plugs start to give up. Sounds very much like you already have something playing with the electronics. As you had to change plugs already. Removing cat 2 you will be able to hit fuel cut on cold days. With a full decat and big exhaust you'll be there all the time!! Pete's one allows you to raise the fuel cut (within sensor limits) to what you have determined is the safe maximum of your engine build, it's part of the tuning process. I'd get it looked at properly.

If it's stock (or raised) fuel cut you will get the red triangle. Does this bulb come on, I think the handbrake lights it. Is it possible you already have some other electronics in there? Or...... you are too busy watching the road as you are at WOT to see the light come on?

Then either it's not fuel cut, you've got a broken red light or it is cutting the fuel in another way. What does it feel like when you get your fuel cut? a) soft rev limiter b) big wallop, total loss of power for a couple of seconds then back to normal c) something else? Supratoy, a boost controller allows you to control the boost. Fuel cut is a safety device to help prevent the engine melting. BTW, hi Pete, not heard you for a while.

The non smooth bit will probably be your spark plugs breaking down and being unable to cope with the higher boost. When I came across it I described it as a soft cut as I thought it was the FCD, but I was wrong! Proper fuel cut is a big brown trouser moment the first time you hit it. the red triangle comes on and you think it's badly broken. The FCD just raises the stock fuel cut. Have you got a boost gauge - if not GET ONE NOW before driving hard again. Stock plugs give up about 15-16psi normally. Going above 18 with stock fuelling and turbos is unwise....

I think a short engine is about £2.5K and a full crated one is around £9k from Toyota.

Going off on a bit of a tangent, wasn't there a big crash at Le Mans in the fifties when a car (Merc??) broke up and sent lots of burning magnesium into the crowd and killed about 50 people. I assume that even the higher spec race wheels couldn't do that - probably as they are alloy and I guess it was pure magnesium they used then.

I always leave the A/C on all the time, the car never mists up and stay cool fresh and dry - it's fantastic. I think it's one of those things that once you've had it and used it properly you'd never get a daily car without it. LOL at testing, but what if it demists too quickly, that would give the shoppers at Tesco's car park something to talk about

I doubt you can other than by asking and assuming they are telling the truth. Someone else may know for sure though.

That seems a pretty good price to me. One thing to check is that they just don't pump in more gas, but also add the oil. If they don't do that you'll be getting a hefty bill for a new compressor in a while.

There was another one about a year or so ago, up North also. They got it on CCTV, two guys got in, opened the bonnet and drove away in I think 25 seconds. The car had a properly fitted CAT 1 alarm fitted......

Hi Chase, sounds like the plugs are giving up. Stock plugs usually have trouble about 1 bar. IK22's are probably not cold enough, IK24 will be better. There is lots of onfo about this in the archives. You are getting to the stage were you need to get the fueling checked out. Changing the plugs and getting higher boost may unveil other problems.

Did it feel like a soft cut, just being held back? What spark plugs do you have in?

Not with my Renault Dustbin they wern't. I was with LV for the Supra and they came back at £350 for the Laguna. I was Quoted Happy at nearly £700 :eek:

It's the oild cooler for the rear diff. I think there is a common problem with those leaking, try a search. Have you just cleaned around that area at all? Jetwash/ brushing? I suggest that you don't drive it until it's fixed or someone who knows says it is safe to drive.

Try an office supplies place, or a proper photography shop. It's used in the studio for getting rid of the glare on shing objects and also you can spray glass photo frames.

I had this, it gets the reflections really bad. I was going to try some photographers matt spray but never got around to it.

Not heard of that. Does it use non linear rotation of the cams to do this?

When Leon was fitting mine last April he said he noticed as he was putting them on that one of the bearings was broken. He had to take them back and get a replacment one. Not very good QC from the builder as it obviously left him like that.

Sorry about the problems you are having Steve. The stock injectors, with an uprated fuel pump and FSE can usually go to about 16-18PSI. If fuelling was a problem the turbo bearings would be the last think on your mind IMHO. You'd be looking at burnt out valves, damaged bores etc caused by running lean. Very messy... If the bearings went then it wouldn't matter too much if you had ceramics ot steel.

At 600RPM tickover each injector is firing 5 times per second so it doesn't sound like that. I think mine used to tick slightly and thought it was injectors, but had replacment injectors fitted (during rebuild) and it still did it. Never knew it to be a problem. Was the noise a clinky rattle that could be coming from the front, round the timing belt?