Jiversteve

I have had the same on a couple of cars. If its fine for the first 20 mins or so of driving then starts.... First thing to check is whether the disc/hub is overheating. Careful, things can get very very hot. Its quite possible that a brake caliper piston has seized and the pad is continuously skimming the disk. Its perhaps time to change the rear pads, both sides and check that all pistons are free to move. Cheaper than changing the UJ's on the rear. If you have been driving like this for a while, some of the grease will have melted so the bearings and UJ will need re-packing. Any garage should be able to check this. There should be no heavy costs as the calipers are pretty standard.

Thanks heckler. My manual is in English but the diagrams are all for a Left hand drive car, so maybe for a Yank. The thread http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?217764-What-side-is-the-Indicator-Stalk-on-with-a-UK-spec&highlight=indicator+stalk says UK's are on the left.

I have a 1994 MkIV J spec and I have just bought a UK 2003 MR2. The wash wipe and lighting stalks are on different sides. I can usually cope quite happily but every so often I wash my windscreen when I want to flash someone. or do the opposite. It does not seem to have the same effect. Reading the forum, all MkIV have the lighting stalk on the right, just like my Supra. But I have a full Toyota manual and all the diagrams show the lighting stalk on the left. So I am a little confused. Externally the stalk clusters of the Supra and MR2 look alike but not identical as the MR2has no rear wash/wipe. My question is, are switches as shown in my manual actually available with lights on the left and washers on the right despite what I have read on here.

glee

Unless the bottom ones have been replaced recently they could be 14 years old and lost their resilience. Not much point in doing half a job. The screws can be a nightmare, have patience, invest in screw extractors etc etc but be prepared to drill them out and retap the holes. Fit the new ones with plenty of grease to protect the threads from rusting or used stainless screws.

I have pm'd keron to start things. I doubt its electrics as I have had the pumpout before. It may just be lack of use and a smidge of corrosion that has made it stick. As I have done it before and emptied all my screenwash allover the road I dont think there is any muck in the tank and its unlikely that the tubes are blocked as I cant hear the pump spin up. I have never used washing up liquid, always proper screen wash liquids so I dont think I have damaged any seals. If it stops raining tomorrow I will pop it out and run up to local scrap yard and have a look. I dont hold out much hope as It will be pot luck and I will have to get the inner wings out of the way. I might try calling my local motor factors and see if I can get 'where used' info.

Just got a new MOT and now the washer pump has stopped working I have removed it before and given it a good clean but this time I think its time for a replacement. Mr T want about £60.00 for a replacement but as I am short of cash does anyone know if a pump from another Toyota will fit.

I have only just got a new MOT and now my washer pump has packed up. I have removed it before and flushed it out but I think this time it is due for replacement. It's around £60.00 from Mr T and haveing just spent money on MOT coffers are empty. Does the same pump fit on any other Toyotas as one from a dismantler will do me just fine.

As above, or does anyone know the part number so I can get a new one. Thanks

FOTA had the better idea of tweaking the point system with a higher point value for a win. With the FIA change it may be possible to have a runawat team success at the begining of the season and then a boring end of season as the nearest competitor, who will have no chance of the championship, simply cruising for points, rather than racing for a win. Imagine the possibility of the championship being won after 12 races, and the winner cruising for the next six races, rather than racing an opponent who could still have beaten them. The tail end of the season is always best when the last race can decide a championship.

I recently broke one of my Halfords Professional tools and attempted to return it, for replacement, at my local store. The store manager refused as I did not have the receipt. I pointed out that the tool had a Lifetime Guarantee and as such it should not need proof of purchase. I was still refused so I wrote an email to Halfords customer services that went as follows:- Over several years I have purchased many tools from the Halfords Professional range. I have generally been impressed with the robustness of their construction and have not had to make use of the Lifetime Guarantee that they come with. Recently though one of the tools broke in service under normal and proper use. I thought that I would make use of the lifetime guarantee and exchange the tool. When I attended my local store your Store Manager asked for the receipt for the tool. This I did not have, and I was told that no refund was possible for that reason. I am annoyed at this for the following reasons. • I have made many purchases from Halfords and have no idea which receipt may be applicable as the tool in question was probably part of a set. • Several of the receipts that have been stored in my workshop are now totally illegible, presumably due to heat and humidity. • The life expectancy of most tools will be in excess of the reasonably stored receipt, your definition of ‘Lifetime’ being applied to thermal printed paper and not the tool. • The tool is clearly marked Halfords Professional so it must have originated from a Halfords outlet promoting the Lifetime Guarantee. • The Halfords Professional range of tools is displayed in the store generally under lock and key so the only legitimate way to access them is through a member of your staff and a purchase. • Even if the tool was purchased second hand, the Lifetime Guarantee should still apply as it is the quality of the Halfords Professional tool that is being guaranteed not its purchase history. • I would guess that Halfords Lifetime Guarantee is effectively backed up or insured by a guarantee made by the Original Equipment Manufacturer so a free exchange will not impact on Halfords profitability. It is clear to me that if your Store Manager is correct there is NO DISCERNABLE DIFFERENCE between a Halfords Professional LIFETIME GUARANTEE and STATUTORY RIGHTS under The Sale of Goods Act has been amended by the Sale and Supply of Goods to Consumers Regulations 2002. I look forward to your comments on this subject and what you consider to be the legal difference between Statutory Rights and Lifetime Guarantee. The reply to which was Please accept my apologies for the inconvenience that has been caused to you by this issue. Due to a high instance of theft ( Which is the reason for the tools being kept in a locked cabinet now) we require a proof of purchase to ensure the tool is a genuinely obtained item. However in this instance if you return to your local store with a copy of this E-mail, as confirmation for the store Manager to allow the exchange of your tool. The main difference between our "Lifetime Guarantee" and your stationary rights are that the Guarantee that is offered with our tools is provided by us and is not a legal right like the "Sales of goods act". We are therefore entitled to stipulate the conditions of the offer and one of these conditions is the provision of a proof of purchase upon the return of a faulty tool or part. So as you are told, in the real world it’s ‘buyer beware’ and your guarantee is not worth the bit of paper it has faded from. If anyone would like a printed copy of the email when they have problems replacing their tools, you could ask me nicely.

I had a noise on my drivers side rear that I thought had come from the drive shaft outer CV joint. On low speed runs there was no noise but if I exceeded the limit for a few miles there it was. When off the car the CV joint felt a bit rough so I replaced it with a second hand unit from Jez. The noise dissapeared but I was concerned that the grease in the bearings may have been cooked in the hub. Now a month or so later the noise is back so I am guessing the wheel bearings may have been the real source of the noise after all. As the supe is my only taxed car I am thinking that I could get a second hand hub assy, do swap them on the car and then examine my hub for damage and repair and replace as required. Sounds like I may have a lot of work on my hands. Any advice appreciated.

I think I am going to take out a second mortgage unless someone can help me, 93 JZA80 rear off side drive shaft assy because the outboard CV joint has failed. Mr. T's number 42370A (RH) that will need the inboard CV joint parts or 42330 (RH) that looks like the complete assy I think I knee jerked a bit. I really should look at the 2nd hand parts traders.

For another car I have just ordered a set of polyeurothane bushes from Superflex.co.uk. It looks like there are some for JZA Supras there. The catch is you have to press them in yourself or get someone else to do it. With that work it may be worth buying the complete assy from NIC. I have heard that polyeurothanes need oiling or greasing to stop them creaking after a few years but I have no evidence to support this.

I found this thread useful too. Morning off to wait for new washing machine and its not raining. Just been through the procedure. Battery out, Power steering reservoir unbolted, wiring loom unclipped & eased out of the way. Lots of paper towels plastic bags, HD polythene on floor etc etc. Unscrewed and removed filter out through front, dropped it pouring oil over drive! Drained and refilled with oil and new filter. bolted everything back together. Everything back in place and me pleased with myself. Mind you the washing machine I ordered has not arriced yet so overalls may be a dit stinky for a few days.