geofhole

Well done that man will look into this evening.

No I got a spare pair of the standard air ducts thinking I could take the fixings off and use them on the skirts but I wos wrong hence the post.

Hi thanks but the ones shown in the diagram are for the normal standard brake air ducts the side skirt fixings are different.

Anyone know the part number for the white posts that hold the OEM side skirts on, 2 off each side above the brake air duct? See picture. I only want 4!!!!

£2k cash new.

I have a Supra NA Auto running a state of the art Romano HD multi point LPG system. I have not noticed any power loss. You can switch back to petrol instantly if you want. LPG is only 85% as combustable as petrol so theoretically there is a power loss but the 3.0L Supra engine has bags of power so you don't really notice it. Shell in Bristol is selling Autogas for 66.9p a litre! That's £3.04p a gallon. Unleaded is 135.9 a litre or £6.18 a gallon you save £3.14 a gallon. LPG MPG is less expect 16 MPG on LPG but you will go about 35 miles on LPG for £6.18 instead of 22 miles on petrol. Cheers Geof.

I'd be interested in the answer to this topic as I want to remove the rear window for paint and replace the seal.

Hi sorry I don't know if there is any difference between the pre-facelift & facelift, I would guess nothing but I would like to know the part number if you have it. My dealer says its obsolete and I don't believe him! Thanks in advance.

Ok thanks for the recommendation, looks like Baldy is the man the white Supra's paint looks the mutts nuts that's for sure! I'll contact Baldy via his website. Crawley is really sh1te to get to from here but hey ho its got to be worth it for that quality finish.

My Supra Aerotop paint is tired and requires a respray it but want a proper job done. I'm really fussy bordering on OCD so it has to be cock on. It's not a colour change just a respray in Astral 202 black. Can anyone on here recommend a top notch body shop who pay attention to detail and deliver the goods in the South West area, approximately 50 mile radius of Bristol? There must be one among us?

Put me down for a set please KIT5221K 95 Pre-Facelift N/A Aero. Cheers. Sorry, scrub above, can't wait car needs bushes now. Cheers.

As the title states if you have either or both I would be happy to purchase them. UK Spec Supra Dash Clock/Temp module only, outside sensor not required. Cap or caps must be for the Yokohama AVS Model 5 wheels, silver, 70mm dia with the AVS logo as per the photo. PM me for contact details. Thanks.

That's for all the replys. I have now sorted the problem by fitting a set of 97 Facelift wheels and part worn Yokohamas and the whining noise has gone. Tyres! DON'T BUY CHEAP TYRES THEY ARE CRAP.

Thanks for all the replys I didn't think I was going to any. The tyres seems to get a few votes. My problem here is separating tyre road noise and (if it exists) on my car tyre whine. Tyre road noise increases and changes with different road surfaces the whine stays the same and only increases in pitch when the road speed increases. Surely the whine and tyre road noise would increase together as road speed increased if the tyres were at fault. I will try the long screwdriver and probe the tunnel area, well my brother-in-law will. Not sure if I can record it let alone hearing it on play back. In the first instance I/we were convinced it was a diff whine everything else checked ok. Disks were original with only slight wear on LH inside surface, disks were cheaper than tyres. As it seems to be in the rear the next choice was rear wheel bearings as it sounds like a bearing going. Gearbox trasmission fluid is changed at the correct intervals with no signs of any wear in the autobox.

Hi Chis thanks for your comments. I will run the Supra tomorrow with the roof out but I'm pretty sure I tried this in Aug when we had a day of sunshine and the whine stayed the same. Don't have a roof aerial only the stock o/s rear electric one.

Ok I know there are alot of threads about strange noises especially the turbo 'death whine'. This is not as my Supra is a J-Spec NA Auto Aerotop. I have read all the threads and still think this warrants a new one. Firstly its not the wife whinning, she's not allowed in the Supra only young fit buff chicks, she has a Yaris and is well appy with it! Here goes, I have a road speed NOT engine rpm related whinning noise starting at around 36/37 rpm and continues up to 100+mph. Its resonant/loudest at 70 to 80mph (nice!). Its present when decellerating. The car does not vibrate. The whine is present under normal acceleration although masked by engine/exhaust noise under heavy acceleration and particular rough road surfaces/tyre noise. Wheels are 18 inch AVS Model 5's, tyres are budget with good tread and are not suspected as tyre road noise changes on different road surfaces and is a different noise (low pitch rumble/whoosing sound) not the whine. I/others cannot tell if its from the front or back or which side unfortunately. Its not getting worse and is not temperature related. It does not get louder going round corners. My instinct tells me it sounds like a diff whine but please read on. From my 35 years of driving and advice from several consulted parties 'its the diff mate' is the general opinion. So a replacement diff from a breakers (assured quiet from a known wrecked car, new gear oil fitted) was installed and nothing changed, still the same noise! Bugger. So several parties were consulted and 'its the rear wheel bearings mate' was the next conclusion, so new Toyota rear wheel bearings were installed. Still the same noise! Bugger. So several other parties were consulted and 'its the rear brake shoes mate' was the diagnosis, so these were removed and guess what, still the same noise! Several other parties were consulted and 'its yer rear disc's mate' was the reply. So new rear disc's and pads were installed, still the whinning noise remains! Guess what several other parties suggested? 'Its the rear diff mate'..... you can't trust one from a breakers!! So a re-con unit (shimmed and pre-loaded) was installed and the problem was sorted....... no the same whinning noise remains. I'm thinking about the front wheels bearings but these have been inspected and hand spun on the hubs and checkout all ok. Perhaps the centre prop bearing may be suspect? Not had the prop down yet. Not sure about the half shafts/axels, didn't think they whinned only clunked when worn. Don't think its the fuel pump, car starts, drives and runs perfect, 28 mpg on a run and 21 round town. Its not a wind noise as far as I can tell, defenately a bearing noise. Its not the stereo. Its not the air-con. Its not the exhaust as this was replaced with a stainless steel one and before the whine started which was about 6 months later. I don't think its the steering pump/rack as the noise is not present when the car is stationary and on full lock either side. I don't thinks its the fan coupling as its road speed related. The air intake is stock. The car is an Aerotop auto and the whine pitch does not change if I de-select the overdive eg the road speed stays the same the whine stays the same although the engine rpm has changed. The Supra's recorded mileage is 90kms but cannot be verified. The car has no engine or transmission mods, bar the 18 inch AVS alloys. Would a rolling road track the noise down? If yes anyone got one in the south of England they can recommend? Basically can anyone throw any light on my prob? Any help would be apprecieated. I've spent around £700 so far chasing this!

Hi did you sort your 'whine' prob? I get a whine at 35 mph up and really bad at 70+ mph. Tried 2 diff's, one from scrap yard and one recon, still the same! Replaced both rear wheel bearings, disc's and pads, still the same!!. Took handbrake shoes out and ran, still the same!!! Not sure if its back or front, might try front wheel bearings next although they look and sound A1 on the jack and hand turning. After that the centre prop bearing. Its road speed related as the whine does not change with engine rpm. Anyone else heard/seen this.........help please. Oh almost forgot its a 95 NA Auto Aerotop.

Hi, I've had this locking fault with my Clifford Concept 650 fob and auto-locking feature and the Toyota key fob locker, unlocks fine but fails to lock. One thing no one has mentioned is the drivers door (near the power window switches) central locking switch and if that also does not lock the doors. Mine would not lock on this switch. Anyway I traced the fault to the drivers door key lock switch, if I disconnected this switch inside the door the locking worked fine. Follow the black wiring loom down from the door handel and you will find a connector with 3 wires, disconnect it and the problem should go away. I'm not sure what's in the handel/lock and if it can be adjusted but my guess is the switch is either nackered or out of adjustment. Perhaps someone can throw some light on this? Does the central locking lock both doors with the turn key? Mine didn't.

Anyone come across this problem? The interior fan only works on the slow speed! It does switch off when the 'OFF' button is pressed and comes back on when the fan speed knob is turned but only the slow speed (1st speed). We have fitted a NEW fan speed controller loacated near the fan motor just behind the lower glove box, passenger side footwell, no effect. We have exchanged the dash switch cluster/panel with a working one from my Supra, no effect. We have swapped the relay in the fuse box marked HTR, no effect. The air con works ok, all flaps seem to work ok when the AUTO climate control is engaged, the heated rear window works ok, the heater gets hot and warm/cold air comes out of the vents, all the switches and lights in the switch panel/cluster work ok. Car has not been messed about with the only thing fitted which is non-standard is an Alpine stereo CD unit. Any pointers/help would be much appreciated.

Hi, ummmm mine don't seem to do anything A/C on or off.

Can anyone shed any light on why my two middle air vents are not working? The vents in question are the square one on the passengers side in the middle (not next to the window) and the round one next to the digi clock. Both are open and selected on the controls, they neither blow cold with A/C on or hot with the warm setting on and full blast on the blower! The outer two vents next to the windows work fine hot and cold. I have checked behind the dash and the hoses/pipes/duct are all there and connected. My guess is the electricks is missing somewhere and a flap is not operating correctly. The car is a Standard unmodified J-Spec 96 Aerotop. Any pointers would be most appreciated. If Lucifer reads this.......how is the LPG conversion going? I still want mine done and live in Somerset.

Makes you smile everytime. Does anyone have the wiring diagram, operating instructions and what the 6 little switches do on a STARBO RS-1500 or a STARBO RS-601 in ENGLISH? I got one (RS-1500) fitted to my Aerotop and it works but it has 3 more wires not connected, they are all small(ish) thin single (7/0.2) wires with Japaneese bullet connectors on, colours are green, grey with female connectors and a yellow wiv a male connector. These small wires 'break out' about halfway down the loom. They may be something to do wiv the turbo timer side as my Aerotop is N/A then they would not be needed...........but I am curious:rolleyes: Any help would be appreciated. And I will post some pic's when I've cleaned her up a bit. Geof.

Thanks very much, off to Toyota tomorrow.

Anyone know the part number for the clear plastic speedo, tach, fuel and temp cover for a J-spec 96 pre face lift Supra? I just cracked mine fitting a MPH face, doh! Or has anyone got one for sale please? Std J-Spec Black 96 Aerotop Auto. Pic's to follow.

Thanks for the quick reply Micheal, I've just realised there is an ICE Technical so I should have posted it there............doh! I will post pic's when the weathers better and I've had a few scuffs painted! Geof.