4packet

Quick bump of this thread. Still have these in the garage!

Still have this btw. With prior arrangement it could be collected from Warwickshire too.

Still for sale btw!

Neglected this for a while, these are still for sale btw. With advance notice these could also be collected from the Warwickshire area if that helps.

Bump and price drop to £90

Price reduced or if you can collect from Milton Keynes or Bath I'll accept very low offers.

Have for sale a genuine brand new Toyota rear bearing with pair of seals. Bought a pair, but only needed the one. Has been stored in packaging. £100 collected from near Milton Keynes/Leamington/Bath or plus postage.

The Powerflex site is pretty good for listing the required bushes and where they go. If you're interested I have the rear R2 Racing kit minus the upper arm bushes for sale (have sold the Supra now). This includes 8 (4 each side) bushes which I think covers all the lower control arm bushes. Never used, still with instruction sheet, original packaging and grease. Just opened to remove the upper arm bushes. £75 + postage. Can provide more info/images etc if interested.

Everything I’ve heard suggests that the 2015 Mustang is going to be significantly better than the previous (IRS for one!). I hired a V6 a while back (SF to LA) and it felt pretty poor compared to the Camaro SS I swapped it for. I think the pre 2015MY retro front looks great, but not all angles are so successful. I’ve seen and heard a 2015MY test vehicle on site. Looks bigger with a hint of A5 to it, less retro, but still unique. Sounded good though, even at low load.

The hub to wheel clearance is not an interference fit. If the hub were to take all the load then the wheel would fret on the hub. The force of the wheel is transmitted to the hub via friction on the vertical plane and the nut and studs apply the sufficient clamping load for the friction to exist. The spigot assists in centring the wheel when the nuts are torqued. The nuts ultimately centre the wheel.

Still for sale

Still for sale

Price reduced

Price reduced

Front lower LH (passenger side) wishbone with good bushes and ball joint. I bought a pair some time back and only needed the one. Preferably collection from Milton Keynes area, although can probably arrange postage. Price: £35

5 Bilstein dampers for Supra TT for sale (2 fronts, 3 rears) The 2 fronts and 1 rear I bought from Chris Wilson a few years back and have been stored in the garage ever since. 1 of the rears originally came on my 95 RZ and the other was bought from a fellow forum member. I had a knock from the near side rear corner and thought it was the shock so I replaced with a known good but 2nd hand damper. The knock eventually returned. I cannot say what caused the knock, but I did eventually replace the entire rear upright and driveshaft. I have labelled the 2 dampers that were fitted to the car with ‘possible knock’ so they are sold as seen. Preferably collection from Milton Keynes area, although can probably arrange postage. Price: £50

Nice looking workshop Paul. Will check in on your progress if you promise to stop saying bad things about the LS engine!

I had a look at the EGCV pressure circuit and it seems OK. I'm inclined to think that this part of the system is OK as both turbos come on line if you are already above 4000rpm (change down into a low gear and give it a couple of seconds off the throttle). It just won't switch over if you start accelerating below 4000rpm and the boost has already started to drop off.

Tried that years ago when my IACV wasn't working. Not done it this time as it makes good boost off both turbos. Have to be off boost above 4000rpm before going WOT to get the full effect. Normally I'd just settle down with it and pull it all apart, but I'm already up to my eye balls trying to squeeze that V8 into the RX7.

I will have another look at the EGBV, but as you say if everything else was OK, it should switch to both turbos as normal. It has never switched to both turbos once it has lost boost on #1 turbo.

It's a great resource, which I've referred to many times. It doesn't describe the symptoms I'm experiencing or elaborate on the below. IACV When it isn't switched, there is a small flap in the IACV assembly that allows any boost generated by #2 turbo as it prespools to join the intake stream, preventing turbo stall. Is this a robust flap or could it fail and allow reverse flow? I'm assuming it functions as a one way valve. Is there a way of checking it or dismantling it without removing the entire casting?

Has anyone got any experience of this to save me dismantling excessive amounts of the car? Essentially the issue is restricted to anything below 4000rpm. If the revs are already above 4000rpm with no boost, then I can go WOT and both turbos make good boost. If I start at low revs I will typically see normal boost for a period and then it starts dropping off and will not make the change over to the 2nd turbo. Sometimes this occurs around 3000-3500rpm, but once properly warm it seems to happen at much lower revs and will soetimes give no boost at all. The boost sounds different too, almost like a groan. I suspected that the 1st turbo boost pressure was leaking out the 2nd turbo, but can't figure out the failure mode. The IACV actuator moves freely and is sprung closed (I believe) and the electrical actuator clicks fine on the bench. There is a bypass circuit illustrated in the schematic, could this be the issue. Seems easy on the schematic, but to pull it apart doesn't look like a 5min job. Is there is a seal that can deteriorate? Thanks in advance Martin

Driven my pals stock S2000 on the road and around the Nurburgring. S2000 has a sharper front end feel and response. Steering, gear change and pedal response all sharper/better. Feels more engaging. The downside is that the rear end feels a little light and married with the responsive front end makes it a nervous drive on the limit. Compared to the Supra (BPU) it feels very slow. Supra is probably a better car on 90% of roads and feels sharper than you would expect (J-spec Bilsteins not UK spec suspension), but the S2000 due to its size (significantly smaller then a Supra) will always feel more responsive. I like both cars, but they are very different. Suggest you try both or decide what attributes are more important to you.

Have been considering the multi spring approach for road and track. I guess it really comes down to fun vs cost. If you ignore lap times and consider the ability of what an amateur can acheive by adjusting these dampers, does that relate to a more fulfilling experience at the track or on the road? Like most things, as you go up the spectrum, the performance increases diminish, but the cost is exponential. Tough to know how far to go. I think Fastcar should buy both and report back!

Am interested to know what is 'much' better on the 2-way Nitrons over the 1-way design Chris? Does the extra adjustability give much benefit or is the damping much better quality? The 2-ways are another thousand pounds more expensive, so difficult to justify unless the benefits are obvious. Can't speak for the OP, but my RX7 application would be fast road/3 trackdays/1 trip to the Nurburgring each year. Would be willing to spend the extra money if comfort could be optimised on the road while still being a firm setup on track.