SimonB

No, you just need a facelift mate...

You need to phone them up for imports anyway, that's what it says on the quote thingy last time I looked. Last time I tried Elephant they told me there was no such thing as an RZ, only a Turbo model. I gave up at that point...

That's what I believe, I've not actually confirmed it though . I know that you have to tell my Apexi RSM and various other gizmos how many cylinders the car has or you get the wrong RPM displayed, so it makes sense. You also have to give the speed signal type, which is 4P - I'm fairly sure that is 4000 per mile as that seems to be a Toyota standard.

No, you get 6 pulses per rev, so at 8000rpm you will get 48000 per MINUTE. Or 800 per second. Same for speed, 180mph you will get 720000 per HOUR, or 200 per second.

Both are pulsed. There's a thread in the members section where wsb2 was asking recently, but basically AFAIK you get 6 pulses per engine revolution for RPM and 4000 per mile on the speedo.

My copy dropped through the letterbox three days ago . Not very exciting issue this month, it's all Evos and Imprezas.

That's a bit of HTML, it's the code for a non-breaking space. Dunno why it's cropping up in searches though, it should be interpreted by your browser. Nothing to do with turbos, that's for sure!

Yeah, it's not the cost of the resistors, more the hassle of taking the thing apart several times, especially if you've got EL wire to make the backlighting blue too. Took me ages to get it threaded through so it looked good. My other tip if you're going for the EL wire is get a multimeter and make sure you know which is the positive and negative supply to connect the invertor to. I managed to wire mine up backwards and blow up the invertor twice . The first time smoke came out of it, which was a bit worrying at the time...

I did this a while ago, if you use those value resistors you will find the LEDs are blindingly bright with the lights on or off. I had to pull my dash apart three times to add extra resistors to dim them down. I couldn't be arsed to change all the individual resistors again so I found a wire link on the PCB between the power rail and all the LEDs and changed this for a resistor. If I was you I would use higher than 390R resistors, it will save you having to do what I had to. I ended up with 680 or so common plus the 390Rs. I would go for 800 or so ohm resistors.

I subscribe to Jap performance, I buy Banzai when I see it, but it's a bit Max Power for me...

I have both oil temp and pressure gauges. When you start from cold the oil pressure is high (around 100psi at idle). As it warms, the pressure drops as the oil becomes thinner, to around 30psi at idle.

Well, I've got an oil temp gauge, I leave it until the oil is at least 50C, and that doesn't happen until well after the water temp has stabilised.

You see, some people just have no consideration, when clearly I'm much more important than you...

Much more intelligent than some of the panel members on that show by the looks of it!

So you guys are some of the people who sit in traffic with the brake lights glaring? I really hate that, it's nearly as bad as leaving your rear fog lights on... Bloomin' auto drivers...

Paul E over at Miami GT does some aluminium rings.

I think they sell generic ones in Halfords in packs.

It's not supposed to go anywhere, it's a drain in case the coolant overflows.

It's a Veilside one.

I've got a B&M one, they fixed the weakness in them that was making them break. I wasn't sure just after I fitted it, it takes a bit of getting used to. It makes the shift a lot more notchy. You can definitely shift faster, but it's also easier to mis-shift. Fitting it was a bit of a fiddle, to get it adjusted so you can get all the gears smoothly. TBH I found the standard one pretty good anyway, the B&M has a very nice aluminium reverse lock out collar thing which looks much better with a alloy gearknob than the standard plastic one. Here's a pic (not very good as the handbrake is in the way, sorry). http://www.simonshouse.plus.com/handbrake.jpg

Doesn't matter if you've disconnected the wiring harness! I'm not sure if there's a fuse that is for the pump only and not other stuff so I just disconnected the plug on the fuel pump ECU last time I did anything fuel related. If you're changing the fuel pump and have the cover off the fuel tank area you can just disconnect the electrical plug there.

One thing to add to Getrags very good description - before you disconnect the fuel lines (or do anything involving taking fuel lines to bits), disconnect the wiring and crank the engine a few times. That will relieve the pressure in the fuel lines which means you won't get sprayed with petrol under pressure when you disconnect the hoses.

How are these for 1,2 and 3:-

Hmmm, maybe it just wants a wire that indicates whether the engine is running or not, the alternator would do that I suppose. I was thinking of what they call the "Ignitor" on the ECU wiring diagram, which is just an ignition signal that you get a pulse on per cylinder (i.e. 6 per RPM), so that was bolox that I posted!

The one to show on screen MPH is a speed signal, so that one will come from the speedo (or output from your speed convertor). The alternator one is the RPM, which you will find on the ECU shown on that diagram, or from the back of the dials too. The RPM signal IS the alternator signal is what I'm saying, you get one pulse per revolution of the engine. Oh, BTW the colours on that diagram are not the colours of the ECU wires, so don't pay any attention to them. I think the RPM wire is black/white IIRC, but I could be wrong there.