SimonB

Top of course... Don't forget the models change with the facelift, so the facelift RZ is the one with the highest spec as standard.

It's on the chassis plate under the bonnet, drivers side, along with the VIN no. etc. 6NO is the code for gunmetal IIRC.

To be honest there's not that much difference between them, either will make a cool mug shot. Ha, see what I did there...

Yeah, it's a bit of a pain. All you can do on the E01 is set the minimum and maximum voltage and the AFR values at each, there's no way of entering a table of conversions. What you really want is a wideband with a linear output, then you'd have no problem. You could look at the value displayed and convert it yourself to the correct value, or just display the voltage and convert it yourseld, but hardly ideal. It's not a problem if you connect it to the Emanage directly. What I did is take my map file and find the value that corresponds to the value of the dip switches on the Emanage (the ones you set to 740 for a Jspec supra). I changed that to the values for a Skyline (which has a 2nd airflow sensor). Then you can start up the software, load this hacked map in and use the logging facility as normal, only there is now a 2nd airflow input you can log. It's then not too hard to convert the log to a spreadsheet and graph the correct AFR value via a lookup table. This works so long as you don't bring up the main parameters dialog, which asks the Emanage what the dip switch values are again and throws up a dialog saying the values have changed. There's no reason to use that dialog though.

Most of the cheapy delimiters will end up with the whole car seeing the converted signal, which will make the steering far too light and totally ruin the whole feel of the car. Mine was like this originally, I couldn't understand why the car felt so different to when I test drove it before it was converted. The steering should be reasonably weighty and give a decent amount of feedback. Also the cheapy ones will not actually remove the speed limiter, just move it to 180mph. Which is an speed you can reach...

Surely there's not that much difference between mapping one ECU and another? You're setting the same basic parameters, how much fuel to inject and what ignition timing to use against RPM, boost and throttle. I guess it might take you longer if you weren't familiar with the software, but isn't basic mapping the same using AEM, F-CON, or whatever?

Thought I'd update this thread since I said I would when I'd hooked up my wideband. I bought the AEM UEGO with no display. I started off with it just hooked into the E01, but I have since wired it into the Emanage too, as I now have a laptop so I can log everything and produce Excel graphs etc. The other reason I hooked it up to the Emanage too is because the 0-5v output it not linear. With the E01 you can put in the voltage range and corresponding AFR value, but you can't put in a table of values. That means it's not going to give an accurate value. You'll see what I mean from the attached graph, the curve is the signal you get from the wideband and the red line is what the E01 will show. Basically if you're going to buy a wideband and hook it directly to an E01 you want the FJO one which can be set to output a linear signal (I think). So, I have it hooked to the E01 to give a basic indication and to the second airflow input on the Emanage as Ian C has. This involves hacking the map on the PC to make the software think you have a second airflow sensor and allow you to log it, which I figured out how to do. You can then use the Excel macro to convert the log file to a spreadsheet and use a translation table to get an accurate AFR graphed against other stuff. I think this is what Ian has done also (way ahead of me!), although I did it in a user unfriendly way! Hex editor anyone...

No.2 for me, I prefer the fact that the car isn't blurred.

Here you go, from the New Zealand site, the dimensions are on there somewhere...

kinky

Is the activity light on the Emanage flashing green-red-orange all the time? I had that when I tried to upgrade the firmware using an E01 - it means the firmware on the unit is invalid. If you download the latest firmware using the PC software it fixes it. You are using the correct cable to connect to the PC aren't you? It is not a USB-USB cable (the connection to the E01 IS by a normal USB cable though).

A feeling WSB2 is very familiar with

AFAIK it's no different to the TT - all you can do is piggy-back the ECU with something like an Emanage, or fit a replacement ECU.

Probably because it can't be remapped!

It's the cat overheating sensor, so yes you can cable tie it out of the way.

Actually they will allways pay for the full length of the call if you pick the phone up, even if you hang up straight away. Only the person calling can end a phone call. If you phone someone up and they hang up and you don't, you stay connected - next time they pick the phone up you'll still be there! That's one of the annoying things about those pre-recorded jobs, you hang up, then pick the phone up 20 seconds later to make a call and they are still there banging on about dialling the premium rate number for 10 minutes to claim your £500 of holiday vouchers. Which consists of 500 individual £1 off vouchers you can only use one at a time...

It's a Toyota job. You could try asking in the wanted section - you might find someone who has removed theirs to fit an aftermarket front bumper. IIRC they are not cheap from Toyota either.

All this stuff about bigger filters etc to avoid FMS problems is very interesting, but the original question was "are filter relocation kits bad?". And what we are all saying (I think) is that provided the hose connections are OK so they don't leak they aren't, compared to the stock setup anyway. The extra hosing is not going to be a new restriction as the main restriction is the filter and mount themselves, which are the same for stock and with a relocation kit. The other stuff is to do with improving over the stock system by fitting bigger filters etc and not really much to do with relocation kits. Is that a fair summary?

Yes, there's a diagnostic LED and a diagnostic plug you plug in the serial port. It flashes various things like RPM and individual wheel speeds depending on the selector knob position. Most people hide it out the way though. You can also use the logging on the setup software on a laptop to log how much cut it's applying, what the wheel speeds are etc. Use the PC based software on a laptop to see what the settings are. You really need to download a better settings file anyway to get the best out of it. Press the big green button, then floor the accelerator. The RLTC keeps the revs at a predefined rev limit that you can set from the software or manually. You then feed in the clutch and off you go.

Maybe I'm missing the point here, but by filter pressure drop I assume you mean the pressure drop across the filter? In which case why would it be any different from stock since you are just relocating the standard filter? As long as overall oil pressure is OK I can't see the difference from using an oil cooler for example, which you will certainly need if doing track days etc with higher than normal boost. So long as the connectors are OK and don't leak I can't see a problem with coolers or remote filters. I can't think of a race or track car without an oil cooler, a remote filter is just an extra bit of hose. BTW, I have the GReddy relocation thingy, and while I agree the hoses and connectors aren't great and should be proper threaded unions, the actual take-off and remote plate are OK. Mine has never leaked - I did change one of the hose clamps that was a bit dodgy before fitting though. I'm going to change it, but mainly to add a thermostat and cooler. You can get all the stuff you need from Mocal, via their distributer Think Auto. The take-off plates, coolers, remote filter heads etc are not too expensive, the main cost is for decent hose and connectors. Moquip hose (which is the same spec as Aeroquip but a bit cheaper) still works out around £20 a meter IIRC. You can get them to swage the connectors on for you so no chance of leaks.

To be fair, they can only feature cars that people have asked them to feature. How many Supra owners have?

RLTC doesn't use anything apart from the ABS sensors (and the RPM signal from the ECU, but that'l be ok). It could be the connection to the trac control butterfly at the front of the throttle body I suppose, but I would have thought that would light a warning light if it was dodgy. Normally the stock one doesn't do much until it detects a lot of slip, when it cuts pretty much all power for a few seconds.

Wondered how long it would take for someone to notice that...

Provided you have the correct tools it's not too bad. Use a flare nut spanner or you risk stripping the thread on the fuel line, which would be bad. When I did mine it started absolutely pissing it down just when I was about to fit the new one. I was lying in a large puddle with hypothermia starting to set in and tried to bolt the new one on a bit too quickly and ended up stripping the thread on the new filter. Had to put the old one back and order another one from Toyota, very annoying. So take your time!

You need to do the relay mod, that makes your rear lights work as normal with the fogs off, and lights up one pair at high intensity all the time when you turn the fogs on. Here's the link. As for covering the holes, I had a larger rear plate made which covers them and has the registration on one line rather than two, but then I wanted a single line plate anyway as it's a personalised jobby.