SimonB

Need a quick favour from someone with a facelift TT. Can you turn your ignition on (but not the engine) and tell me if the boost and temp gauges move to the bottom line on the scale or stay off the bottom if you see what I mean? Can't remember and I need to put my dial needles back on! Doh!

Try Empire Direct, bought my last fridge from them.

You don't need a helmet, it's a toll road remember, not a track...

I've never managed to figure out why the hell Toyota changed all the wiring for the facelift cars, even before the VVTI when the ECU and the other electronics were the same! They just seem to have changed half the wire colours for no reason at all, and then changed a few plugs too for good measure. I'm sure when I did the blue LED heater control thingy mod the illumination power and ground were round the wrong way from pre-facelift for no reason. Blew up 2 invertors before realising. And then there's the plug that goes to the ignition barrel which is different. Why why why?

According to their website, the FJO one can be setup to output a linear signal using their software. Not sure which bits you need to buy to get this feature though - the website seems to say that the kits come with the software now, but looking on MVPs site there are loads of different variants that don't marry up to the FJO site. The FJO website is here

Testing? Where's the fun in that, just solder and go.... Seriously though, I'm pretty confident those are the correct wires.

They both have an output that's not linear, so still not great for displaying on the E01. It's no problem logging it through the Emanage to a laptop though, with this one or the one I have without a display.

Just found the old thread I got the pin numbers from, thought I must have got those from somewhere... Here it is.

To be honest I can't remember, it was a while ago, but I think the colours were the same yes. IIRC they are a slightly thicker gauge than the other wires too. I think the pin numbers I have written down relate to the pin numbers on the ABS looms in the car, are there two connectors going to it, can't remember?

Ok, this is what I have written down:- ABS wire Colour RLTC wire colour Wheel -------------------------------------------- A21-3 RED RED FR A21-8 WHITE YELLOW FL A20-10 BLUE BLUE RR A20-22 PURPLE GREEN RL

AFR is the more common one used and talked about. If you're connecting it up to something else to log stuff it doesn't matter anyway.

Sorry, that's my lack of using the quote button! I was replying to this:- and trying to say that if you want a boost controller you just buy the Profec E01 which has this feature and not the plain E01 which is just a display.

Mine is a facelift pre-VVTI. Don't remember having any particular problems with the ABS wires. I'll have a look when I get home because I think I wrote down the colours of the wires I used. Mine is an RZ though, so it has the uprated ABS if that makes any difference.

The only difference is the units displayed on the gauge, one has AFR and the other Lamda. Bit like having two options for a boost gauge, one with psi and one with BAR.

At least Battle of the Planets was in there, bit low down though. I went to a kids tv theme fancy dress party for New Year this year as Inspector Gadget...

PMSL! I think Jake wins the "most quotes in a single post" award there too...

Don't get confused by the two different E01s. There is the E01, which is just a display for the Emanage, and the Profec E01, which is the boost controller and display for the Emanage too. If you've got a Emanage just buy the Profec E01, it's only a bit more expensive than the E01.

No, you can't lower it below the normal boost of the engine. All a controller does is bleed off pressure to make the wastegate open at a higher than normal boost. E.g. say normally the wastegate opens at 1BAR. The wastegate can't flow enough air out the way with a decatted car, so boost builds to 1.3BAR say. All a boost controller can do is delay the wastegate opening. It can't change the fact that the wastegate can't flow enough air. What you can do though is use a restrictor ring to hold boost at 1BAR say, and then use the controller to set what level of boost above that you want.

That depends, with a restrictor only you will get quite big differences in boost depending on the temperature etc. Also the boost will build more gradually - with a decent boost controller you can bring max boost in earlier. The E01 has a facility to set the max boost you want, then when you reach it it will reduce the duty cycle of the boost solenoid to keep boost below that level. You can also vary boost by RPM, although I'm not sure why you would. There is one controller that lets you vary things by what gear you are in, which would be good because you get more boost in higher gears so need less assistance from the controller.

Imports don't have any form of alarm or immobiliser as standard, you can get keys cut at any key cutting place. They did have remote locking, but as someone has pointed out, you pretty much have to fit a CAT 1 alarm/immobiliser to get insurance anyway and that will have remote locking.

31 psi is the fuel pressure under vacuum at idle (approx). Static fuel pressure is 40psi accrording to Terminators service manual. I see what you're saying about the fact that fuel pressure increases with boost - this is to counteract the extra pressure in the intake and maintain the same pressure difference between the injector and the intake. You basically need to calculate everything at static pressures. I'm going to run 50psi static, so that means my 440cc injectors will be the equivalent of 492cc injectors. 80% duty cycle is pretty conservative I would say though. I guess if you're speccing new injectors it's something to aim for though.

Castle Combe does have one of the strictest noise limits of any track. I think Goodwood and Thruxton are quite strict too, but most aren't too bad. You need an exhaust with a removable baffle though.

Happy birthday again. If it actually is your birthday this time that is!

I presume that those complaining about too light steering on the Supra have converted/delimited the car correctly so the progressive power steering is seeing the correct kph signal? If you don't do this the steering is too over assisted - done properly I find the steering reasonably weighty.

Here's the instructions for the B&M one that I have:- http://www.bmracing.com/media/products/pdf/75.pdf