SimonB

Best way of getting to the filter is from above, take the battery out, unbolt the power steering reservour to give yourself a bit more room and reach in from the front. Good tip is to put a plastic bag round the filter when you take it off - it will drop into the bag and make less mess.

What about a Noble? http://www.tyresmoke.net/albums/albuo82/Noble_DSC_0087.jpg

You guys ought to try it with the ASM and TCS turned off, and with the display set to simple so you don't get the red suggested gear thing and the map. Try getting good times like that!

You could easily set this up with normal RLTC. You can choose whatever level of cut you want for the various positions on the rotary switch, so just set the last two to 50% and 70% or whatever you want. It sounds like it's just a more bling control box that's all. It's dead easy to change the amount of slip using the software, anyone can do it.

No no no no no! It's a sports car, not a fairground ride! You have a highly developed top quality double wishbone suspension setup that can generate very high lateral Gs and is designed, tuned and setup for optimum handling and grip and you're thinking of swapping it for a load of inflating bags! Argh! IMHO of course, but for even thinking about it...

I agree, mine are fine after what must be getting on for a year of constant use in all conditions. The only problem I have found is the centre caps have become a bit corroded - they obviously didn't like the salt over the winter. I'm getting some replacement TTE ones to replace the Lexus badged ones though - I'll post something up about it when I get this sorted as I know there are a few people with these wheels now who must be getting as fed up as me of people saying "Are those Lexus wheels?",

Ok, here we go, found it. For intake air temp 0.5V = 0C, 3.4V=80C. For water temp 0.2V=60C, 1V=120C. So you could wire those up to your analogue inputs if you haven't got anything else you need to monitor. There might be some other stuff you could monitor too.

I've been making one of these out of sheet aluminium for ages now, never quite get round to finishing it off and fitting it. I'll probably do it this weekend as I'm fitting my oil cooler and stuff.

Well, that depends on what you want to monitor! I use mine for my wideband sensor, I haven't wired it in to anything in the ECU yet. I was planning on using one of the pulsed inputs for the speed signal, and the other analogue one for either intake air temp or water temp. Haven't got round to it yet though. Here are the ECU terminals from mkiv.com. That's for the US ECU, but most of them are the same on a Jspec. Somewhere I have the info on what the voltage ranges are for the sensor inputs, I'll have to dig it out though.

Does that mean you were actually sad enough to sit there for 24 hours playing GT4? I mean, I know you have no life, but...

I don't think you qualify mate, unless there's something you're not telling us!

I'm still trying to beat 8'05 or whatever it was! Mind you I've been playing through the main game recently. I will try harder!

How did you get that? I thought you had to complete one of the endurance races, or did you cheat?

The three lights are dipped beam, main beam and fog on both facelift and pre-facelift/UK. The sidelights are also in the main headlight cluster on pre-facelift/UK lights, they are the funny lump at the bottom. On the facelift they are part of the indicator. HTH

There are several variations depending on model and age. Some turn the lights off when you open the door, some have a beeper, I think some might do neither! Mine beeps.

Not sure if you will get a correct reading from anywhere other than the port on the regulator or not. I would get hold of a small screw in gauge (Vortex sell them) and try that. Oh, and check for kinks in the fuel hose.

Ummm, let's see, better check the obvious stuff I suppose. You reconnected the vac hose after setting the pressure right? That's pretty much all there is to it, fuel feed from the rail goes to the side port and the return line goes in the bottom. Can't think of much else. Did you connect the gauge to the port on the regulator itself?

LOL! Yeah, and he enjoyed that too...

The fuel pump doesn't run on the Supra unless the engine is running or cranking. The best way of setting the pressure is to turn the ignition on, and connect a wire up between the +12V and FP terminals of the diagnostic port on the intake side of the engine. That will run the fuel pump, then you can adjust the pressure with the vac hose off to 40psi. The terminals to use are marked on the inside of the cover of the diagnostic plug.

I've yet to see a warranty that's worth the paper its written on. They normally don't cover anything "subject to periodic replacement" which is just about everything. They also don't cover anything unless it has actually failed. I needed a new wheel bearing quite soon after I bought my car - it had too much play. The warranty wouldn't cover it because it hadn't actually failed. If it had fallen apart while I was driving down the motorway and written the car off no doubt they would have covered it! They also claimed it was something subject to periodic replacement! Total waste of money IMHO. You're better off saving the money you would have spent on it to cover any work you need to do.

Unless you want facelift lights, which look much better IMHO and are only available in plastic. The facelift lights are dark grey inside rather than silver, have chrome rings around the lights and the sidelight is not part of the headlight unit (where is looks ), but integrated with the indicators.

I may be interested in a set a facelift front lights, depends on the price. One of mine is very yellowed, and the other has some scratches, so I could do with changing them. 1. Nic - Face-lift headlights/Face-lift Rear Lights/Face-lift Indicator/Side Lights 2. Faye's Brother - Face-lift Rear Lights (price dependant) 3. SimonB - facelift headlights (if they're cheap enough )

Yep, me too, I have the clone USB cable from here:- http://chips.car-hacker.com/viewtopic.php?t=470

I've just tried V1.13, works fine for me with 1.39 firmware. I was using V1.11 with the same firmware - I don't think you'll have any problems with that. I downloaded the upgrade from Mohd's site (http://www.mohdparts.com) - you unzip it and copy two files over your 1.11 software.

It's the diff oil cooler. UK specs have them, Jspecs don't. Leaks seem to be a common problem.