SimonB

Have a look on Mohd's site http://www.mohdparts.com and on the Yahoo group, http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/emanage/ in the files section.

Optimax is 98RON, normal SUL is 95RON, so its only 1 RON more. Or am I missing something?

Happy birthday mate, have a good one!

Yep, nothing to worry about there.

That plus it would be a very specialised product to work with the sequential system. The single turbo kits are based on generic turbos that can be used for loads of applications otherwise they would cost a fortune.

No probably not, it would be under the cover. There's two nuts at the bottom, just take those off and lift the cover.

The 1.2BAR thing is more due to insufficient fueling than anything else though, since most people that up the boost don't have the uprated fuel pumps, pressure regulators and/or injectors and electronics. If you have a single you pretty much have to have these things. At 1.3 BAR say then the stock turbos are out of their efficiency range, but they will still produce more power than at 1.2BAR provided your fueling, intercooling etc are up to it. Wouldn't want to push it much further than that myself. I run mine now at 1.3BAR, with increased fuel pressure, uprated fuel pump and an Emanage to control the fueling. Oh, and a FMIC. Last year before it was mapped properly it made 430bhp at the hubs on Thors (generally regarded as quite optimistic) dyno. I've improved a number of things since then, I expect it to be around the same reliably now. That's with standard Jspec turbos btw.

Happy birthday, don't do anything I wouldn't... There you go, no abuse...

Have you got the application to have a look at the cut table settings? There is a separate soft and hard rev limiter cut table (separate from the normal traction cut tables). Maybe your soft cut is cutting everything or something?

That's full throttle gear shift that uses the clutch switch, launch control doesn't. Mine isn't wired into the clutch switch.

The fittings on the takeoff are parallel BSP and are indeed sealed with dowty seals. The ones on the remote filter mount are NPTF, so are sealed with PTFE tape and the fact that they are done up bloody tight and the threads therefore interfere. That's what ThinkAuto aka Mocal say. Sorry for any confusion!

I take this back, you DO need PTFE tape or it will leak. I learned this the hard way as I just had to drain the oil AGAIN to seal them properly as they were leaking.

Just about anything, as the locals know the track and you won't. Actually knowing what's round the next corner is a huge advantage. You'll find loads of stripped out golfs that will kick your arse. Don't try and keep up with them, it takes hundreds of laps to even begin to know the place, and the locals have done them.

Will do , it has to be ordered in so it'll be 4-6 weeks. Only £7 too.

If you just want oil temp and not pressure as well you could also buy a sump plug adaptor from Blitz - I've just ordered one myself. See this thread.

Not at all, you can order them through any Toyota or Lexus dealer. Quite a lot of jap import Supras have been converted to mph badly, leaving the steering over-assisted as the car thinks you are going slower than you are. It may have just been that.

ThinkAuto, they manufacture Mocal stuff. Web page is here. You could just buy some more male-male unions if they aren't -10JIC ones. In fact I've got a few spare that they sent by accident.

You need to know what type of thread you have on your male-male adaptors. It could be -10JIC or 1/2BSP or something else. If you don't have a oilstat you'll need 6 connectors, two on the take-off, two on the remote filter mount and two on the cooler. Whether you need 90 degree ones depends on where you mount everything and where you route the hoses. I used a 90 degree one for one of the cooler connections and for the outlet of the take-off as it needed to head down.

Well you can't use one of the built in ones with a remote filter, they are sandwich plates with the filter in the same place. There's very little room down there anyway, so with an extra sandwich layer it would be very tight.

Woohoo, fame at last! If you want any more Matt I'll dig some out. In fact, sod it here are a couple...

Most of the connections are JIC, they don't need anything as a seal, they have a coned seating. Where the male-male union goes into the filter takeoff that is 1/2BSP and sealed with a bonded seal. Kind of like a washer with a rubber bit in the middle. The remote filter plate I used has 1/2NPTF threads, so the male-male unions on those seal by the thread deforming slightly as you tighten it. You can use PTFE tape if you want on those I think but it's not necessary so I didn't bother.

Yeah, my GReddy never leaked and I had it on for over a year. As long as you're careful installing it it's OK. I had a job getting it off in fact. You just have to be careful you don't overtighten the clamps, and it was always a bit of a niggle in the back of my mind that it wasn't quite as good as I would like. Part nos and costs (ex VAT): oil cooler 19 row 235mm -10 JIC connections OC5197-10 £75.13 oilstat -10 JIC connections OT/2G £40.50 oil filter takeoff side ports TOP01 £25.56 remote filter mount - top entry RFH4 £14.77 aeroquip FC333 hose -10 3m FBA1000 £20.71 per m aeroquip female straight swivel fitting -10JIC FBM1014 8x £9.88 each aeroquip female 90deg swept tube fitting -10JIC FBM4043 2x £22.78 each! 1/2BSP to -10JIC male-male union MMA-10-8 2x £5.01 each male to female oil pressure adaptor 1/8NPT MMFA8-10-10-3 £14 1/2NPTF to -10JIC male-male union FBM2009 2x £4.26 each Bonded seal 13/16" for 1/2BSP BS13/16 2x £0.10 each Universal oil cooler brackets (pair) BRKT1 £3.03 £450 including VAT all in. My oil pressure sensor is plumbed in with an adaptor which is the adaptor in the list - I'm going to use a sump pliug adaptor for the oil temp sensor now.

Finally finished fitting my new oil cooler setup so I thought I'd post up some details and pics for anyone whos interested... I used to have a GReddy oil filter relocation thingy, but I've never been that happy with the hose and connectors (it uses push on connectors with worm hose clamps), so I decided to go with proper aeroquip hose and threaded connectors. Not cheap, but top quality and no chance of a leak or hose coming off. So I ordered (all mocal stuff from ThinkAuto) :- 19 row oil cooler oil thermostat oil filter side takeoff plate remote filter plate aeroquip hose (3m) and various fittings, seals and adaptors The plumbing goes like this: engine -> oil filter takeoff -> remote filter -> thermostat -> cooler -> thermostat -> oil filter takeoff -> engine. The remote filter is before the cooler as apparently filters work best on hot oil. The thermostat is there so the cooler doesn't come into play until the oil gets hot, so it doesn't take ages for the oil to warm up on startup. The cooler is mounted behind the front bumper passenger side, just in front of the washer water tank. My FMIC pipe is a bit in the way, so it was a bit awkward, but I fabricated some brackets and it went in there pretty well. The thermostat and remote filter I juggled with before deciding the only place they would go is with the remote filter under the car in the same place as the GReddy one was and the oilstat on the side bulhead in the engine bay. I mounted the cooler a couple of weeks ago, but thought I didn't have enough hose so I ordered some more - turned out I had plenty to start with! I fitted the rest last weekend, but I had a leak where I had used rubber O rings to seal the connections to the oil filter takeoff. Bad idea - the correct thing to use are bonded seals, I put those on today and it's sorted at last! Here's some pics, I can post up the complete list of stuff I ordered if anyone is interested.

Arrrggghh! God I hate that thing, but the stupid yellow bird thing is even worse. It drives me crazy, every single ad break. Who would actually pay to have that on there phone?

Haven't got any personal experience, but there's several questions the website doesn't answer. How does it know your car has been taken without you driving it? It must use a PIN number or card or something, but it doesn't say. Also since it's an imobiliser it must be wired in somewhere where a professional thief would look when trying to defeat the main immobiliser, so they are likely to disable it at the same time. Which leaves it being a plain GPS based tracker. GPS normally needs line of sight with the satelites, so do they have an aerial somewhere? Surely a pro thief would just shield it, or just load it in a transporter.