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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

SimonB

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Everything posted by SimonB

  1. Year and month of manufacture is what you need, as 1997 could be pre or post VVTi for example.
  2. The facelift NA has a battery gauge where the TT has a boost gauge. So you're not too far off!
  3. It doesn't look quite as obvious in real life as the photo, but not great. Haven't quite decided what to do yet, I might just order another set of Lexus centres (mine are quite badly corroded now) and use the TTE ones during the winter.
  4. Yeah, the bit you are talking about where the digital odo was on pre-facelift cars on facelifts has got some of the warning lights that are on the right-most fuel and temp dial on pre-facelift cars. Since they made the fuel and temp separate dials on the facelift there isn't anywhere for those warning lights to go.
  5. There's a rubber grommit under the passenger seat that I used. Mine has a control box that I mounted on the transmission tunnel by the ECU. Power I took from the ECU. If you have the signal wire connected to an Emanage say then you should use the same power and ground connections as the thing you have it connected to.
  6. Well, I have the new centres. I'm a bit disappointed with them though. They are plastic unlike the Lexus ones which are the same construction as the rest of the wheel. Perhaps because of this the colour doesn't quite match up. Have a look below. The TTE badge is a stick on thing, but you'd have to put something in its place or you would have a hole in the centre.
  7. Mr T have just rung to say my new centre caps are in at last! I'll pick them up tomorrow and we'll see if I managed to get the right ones!
  8. The ECU doesn't know or care what gear you are in. Boost is relative to engine load, and the engine load in first is much lower than in 4th say. In any case, if you floor it in 1st you'll get loads of wheelspin and not enough time to build full boost before hitting the rev limiter surely!
  9. SimonB

    Scam?

    Sounds like the classic "third party owes me so I will get them to send you a cheque for X and you can send me a cheque for the difference" scam. The payment will appear to clear and then turn out to be stolen a couple of weeks afterwards. You will then lose your goods plus the money you sent. Anything that begins with a generic "I want to buy this item send me your lowest price" is a scam for sure.
  10. You sure it's a RZ and not a RZ-S? I thought the facelift RZ came with Bilsteins before VVTi and REAS afterwards? Maybe it was only after 98 or something, because the 99 brochure definitely has the RZ with REAS as standard.
  11. PMSL! Think it needs a bit more disassembly for that job... REAS wasn't on all VVTIs, only the RZ and I think it might have been an option even then.
  12. I've been down there in the Supra a couple of years ago, did a big tour round Europe. It's a great part of the world. I would gives Cannes a miss, that's very tacky. Montpellier and Avignon are worth a visit, and if you get a chance the Italian riviera. Santa Margherita Ligure is cool.
  13. I think this may be the answer:- Looks like the REAS shocks on VVTIs had red struts.
  14. I've run ContiSports before, they were very good. Not quite as good as the Eagle F1s in the wet though. One of my rears had a manufacturing defect though that meant it was totally out of balance and it had to be sent back to Continental for them to look at. The replacement one was fine but it makes you wonder at the quality control.
  15. You could try cutting them in half - that might let you get each bit out easier with some mole grips or whatever?
  16. No they are in the same place, but have a different ABS control unit. You can bin the trac ECU no problem, although if you have an auto it may make your gearchanges a bit more abrupt.
  17. Having had a look at that link I posted up a couple of days ago the sensor itself is a normal thermistor that has high resistance when cold and low when hot. The sensor is connected in series to a fixed value resistor. the ECU supplies +5V to the circuit and measures the change in voltage between the fixed value resistor and the sensor. Here. Anyway, the values I posted up aren't quite right - they came from the repair manual and seem to to max and min values or something. The doc in the link has a graph which is much more like it, and I've found another link with resistances which can be converted to voltages. I'll post up when I have some more accurate figures.
  18. You would if you ever tried changing the filter in the standard place!
  19. Happy Birthday mate!
  20. That's what I thought originally, but it's not the case. temp up = higher resistance = lower voltage in this case.
  21. Just came across this site http://www.autoshop101.com/. If you look under technical articles there's some good stuff. I just found a really good description of the various sensors (intake temp, MAP etc) and how they work etc. Loads of fault finding procedures etc too.
  22. Just thought I'd answer my own question here . It looks like the Jspec IS the same as the UK/US spec, I just got the voltages the wrong way round so thought it was different. The voltages are: 0.5V = 80C 3.4V = 0C
  23. SimonB

    Cambelt

    Got one sat right here ready to go on mine part no 13568-49036 (used to be 49035, Toyota changed the number). £28.83+vat. I'll have a go at most things, but definitely don't fancy this one, so it's into the garage.
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