SimonB

Speed bumps are no problem for me, but slopes are, because the nose sticks out quite a way forward of the front wheels. Where you have a change of gradient, like a sloping drive off a road etc that is a problem. I would never make it down a multi-storey ramp. Also because it's made of fibreglass it is much more prone to stone chips. In fact mine is in the bodyshop at the moment having the front bumper repaired - bit crack in it from when I forgot and attempted to drive up someone's drive on a slope, and numerous stonechips. But I drive the car everyday and it's been on for over a year.

You can watermark video, even so the watermark persists if you re-encode it. I don't know where you would get software to do it though. It wouldn't stop people copying it, just mean you could prove they had copied it if you had to. 80 minutes at a decent quality is going to be at least 500Mb I would think if you encode it as a .wmv or DivX or something. On a 1 meg link that would take an hour to download at maximum speed (i.e. if everything inbetween you and them had enough bandwidth etc). In practise more like 1.5-2 hours probably.

Actually about 1.5 times, see my post above, but yeah that's pretty rubbish. I knew there was a reason I bought an Aeromotive...

I think the FJO might do, I think you can buy it without the gauge, but I don't know too much about it other than what's on their website. The AEM one that comes without the gauge is no good, you need the one with the gauge. I suppose you could just hide the gauge somewhere.

It's not quite as simple as that. If you increase fuel pressure by 1.7 times say, you will not increase the amount of fuel being delivered by 1.7x, but by a smaller amount. I've got the calculation somewhere, lemme see, ah, found it: I can't quite believe the FSE raises fuel pressure by 1.7x under boost though, that would make it run mad rich. I take it you have a non standard fuel rail or something, otherwise I have a spare stock fuel pressure reg if you want one.

It also looks like AEM have released a separate gauge for use with the UEGO controller that I have that comes without a gauge. This also has the same linear output from what I can gather, so people with this (i.e. me!) could buy the gauge and hook up the E01 via that rather than direct.

Well, I have the one without a gauge, which has a non-linear 0-5v and a NB sim output. I thought the one with a gauge used to have a non-linear output too, I've got the curve for it somewhere. However, I've just had a look on the AEM forum, looks like they've changed it:- So that looks perfect for the job!

The problem with the AEM gauges/sensors is that they output a non-linear signal as Jake says, and the E01 only allows you to put in a high and low value, so is only accurate with linear signals. I have my AEM wired to the Emanage AND the E01. That allows me to use a laptop to log accurate AFRs from the Emanage, and also the display on the E01 to give a rough idea of what's going on. It would at least tell you something was very wrong if the pressure reg hose came off for example. I believe the FJO sensor can be set up to have a linear output - that's what the info on their website says but I haven't got one so I couldn't say for sure. Here is the FJO website. As for installation, if you have a Chris Wilson 2nd decat pipe they have a port for a WB sensor, so you just screw it in. There is no calibration needed - all the sensors have a calibrated resistor that means they output the same signal to the controller, and the controllers are calibrated too.

Has anyone been on a trackday to Bedford autodrome on the GT circuit? Opinions? Looks like a very nice circuit layout, 18 corners, a 1km straight and loads of run off. Easytrack have a day there at the end of August.

ThinkAuto have tons of car plumbing stuff like that. http://www.thinkauto.co.uk

I guess that's what you'd expect, two smaller parallel twins vs a bigger single should show the same boost curves. Interesting though.

Happy birthday Katie! Hope you have a good day, see you and Laz at JAE next weekeend!

Can the new system be tied into the "new posts" somehow? I always browse the forum by just looking at the new posts, and the classifieds don't show up on it any more.

LOL! Sorry mate! I drive mine to and from work every day, and most of the time to be fair it's not that noisy. And when it is I don't really mind too much - I do get fed up of people asking what's broken. I'll be changing back to a standard fly when I next need to change the clutch I think though. As long as you know it's going to be noisy and don't mind that it's fine.

As Terry says, when it gets hot it rattles a lot more. After a few hours drive through France when it was 35C mine was shockingly loud when I stopped for fuel. The rattle on idle I don't find as annoying as the graunching you get at low revs (e.g. when pulling from Although it does rev more freely, it's not a huge difference, because the pressure plate is pretty heavy anyway, so just making the flyweheel lighter doesn't make as big a difference to the overall weight as you might think.

I spotted that one too, it was parked up by Indiannapolis on Friday.

RPS only guarantee their clutches if you change the flywheel (or at least have it refaced) at the same time. You're looking at £200 labour probably to change it, you may find your existing flywheel is fine when you get it out, or it may be knackered. I reckon if it's done a good few miles you're better off changing it at the same time. Basically if you change to a lightweight fly you should go for a sprung hub clutch plate. If you stick with the standard fly you want an unsprung hub clutch plate. I have a RPS flywheel, and while it does improve the throttle response you will have to put up with the gearbox sounding like it's broken. It will rattle at idle and make a graunching noise when pulling at low revs. I'm going to change back to a stock one when my clutch needs changing again. I have a South Bend full kevlar clutch, which is very good. It feels almost the same as stock, with a slightly narrower bite point. It's a 6 puck, as most of the aftermarket ones are which means you sometimes get a judder as it engages as some of the individual pucks grip before the others. It's done probably 20k miles including a couple of trackdays so far and is going strong. The RPS ones have a slightly heavier pedal feel I think.

With bigger injectors you will be scaling the airflow signal down so the ECU scales the amount of fuel down. That means that at full 1.4 BAR the ECU will be seeing less than 1 BAR, so will never invoke fuel cut.

Forgot to say I transferred this the other day, you might want to take your bank details off this thread. Or are you hoping someone else will read it and send you loads of money?

They're both real heavy duty. The W4 ones are just made of a better quality stanless steel. Trust me, the standard Supra ones will be fine.

I bought mine from a place called RallyNuts but those sizes don't match so not sure what's going on there? They list: 73-79mm £2.95 79-85mm £3.08 85-91mm £3.16 I think you must have a different type there. There's not much point in the W4 clamps IMHO, they are almost exactly the same as the cheaper ones.

Oh yes... Shame they cocked up really and ran out of petrol. We asked one of the team at the Festival of Speed what the fuel problem was, expecting him to say it was the fuel pump. He said "there wasn't enough of it". LOL! The other one overheated. Definitely the best looking car at Le Mans this year though.

Mine's on my harness bar.

You're right there was a thread but it seems to have disappeared. Here's another one that has pics on. Big brake disc sizes are 323mm front and 324mm rear IIRC, with the small ones 296mm and 307mm.

Here's my contribution from Le Mans this year. 6Mpixel original taken with a digital SLR, so plenty of resolution. http://www.alexgoss.com/Le%20Mans/Le%20Mans%202005/The%20Drive%20Home/slides/DSC_4985.jpg Or this one: http://www.alexgoss.com/Le%20Mans/Le%20Mans%202005/The%20Drive%20Home/slides/DSC_4983.jpg