SimonB

The trick you refer to IS the way to do it. I've done it myself and helped someone else do it. It's pretty easy, you just need a bit of patience which it seems you may be a bit short of.

I need to get my Lexus wheels refurbished - they have corroded quite badly where water has obviously got under the lacquer. They are the diamond cut ones with gunmetal inner bits. I've found a thread from several years ago where Michael had his done by a place near York I think it was, but that was a) ages ago and b) miles away from me here on the south coast. Has anyone had any refurbed recently? Anyone know of a place down south that will do them? Wheel refurbs seem very hit and miss!

It's in the bottom pipe off the water pump, the one that connects to the rad bottom hose. It stops water going through the rad when the engine is cold, but water should still circulate round the engine and heater matrix I think. Although actually thinking about it I'm not sure! If the thermostat is stuck closed it would make the engine overheat as the rad is effectively not being used. If stuck open it would take ages for the engine to get up to temp.

Errrr, you mean the rear oil seal carrier?

Yeah, me too. I think it will be next season but it's a bit of a missed opportunity. You can even watch the world touring cars and WRC in HD on Eurosport HD. F1 has always been way behind when it comes to media. It only just went widescreen a little while ago!

Or just do a search for aircon diagnostics and do a diaagnostic check. That will tell you if it's low on pressure, which it probably is. http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=58&highlight=aircon+diagnostic http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=22128&highlight=aircon+diagnostic The bubbles in the sight glass should clear after 20 seconds or so IIRC if there's enough pressure in the system.

Shame it's not going to be in HD this year though.

Me too!

To make sure I didn't forget anything I made up a checklist of stuff to do. I'll post it up to give people an idea what I've been up to since the engine went back! Intake related make brake booster line & fit make throttle cable bracket make throttle cable (i.e. with barrel end) engine ground straps - fit front, mid, rear modify bracket for dipstick & fit install power steering bypass fitting before thottle fit power steering bypass mani hose sort out rad expansion bottle fit throttle cable, trim to length, adjust etc. Engine Install related connect fuel hoses block coolant nipple on head fit downpipe & gearbox mounting bracket fit 2nd decat pipe fit exhaust bolt up clutch refit clutch slave cylinder & hose reconnect boost gauge hose secure oil filter remote mount make up new oil cooler hose & fit change fitting on cooler hose & fit refit aircon compressor refit power steering pump, secure hoses to block bottom. refit aux belt refit ignitor etc writing refit boost controller & plumb in fit intercooler & hoses fit BOV refit rad hoses & fan wiring refit undertray refit battery fit airbox & intake refit fmic plate etc refit bumper refit lights refit bonnet refit starter & wiring secure FPR hoses remember to put sump plug in! oil filter on fill with running in oil refill coolant Other stuff make up turbo side heat shield refit ecu fit & wire in wideband

Because I changed the intake manifold I had to make up a bracket for the throttle cable - I'm using a Lokar cable. I found a bracket that goes between the throttle body and manifold to which I attached a bracket I fabricated to hold the cable. You can see it in the attached close up from an earlier pic. I also had to drill a hole in the throttle body and tap it 1/8NPT to put a fitting in infront of the throttle blade to go to the power steering idle bypass - the other end goes to a fitting in the intake manifold. The other thing you can see is the intake air temp sensor - I tapped a hole in the TB normally used for the idle control valve on the mustang this TB comes from to bolt that in.

Well, we're getting there now. I've been busy doing lots of jobs before she'll be ready for the big fire up! Quite a few as a result of changing the intake manifold - bit PITA that. Then there's the general refitting of stuff and some other little jobs as a result of changing things while the engine was out, namely: I have moved my wideband from the 2nd decat pipe to the bottom of my downpipe, which has a bung for that purpose, and removed the stock O2 sensor which wasn't doing anything. I changed the 2nd decat pipe as mine was pretty rusted and crappy. Because I removed the stock oil cooler (see earlier in thread) I had to change my oil hoses and fittings a bit to reach. I also sprayed by exhaust manifold while it was off with a high temp coating - it was looking pretty tatty! Here's a couple of pics of the engine in and mostly sorted.

You mean the buckets? They are reusable, the shims sit on top and take the wear. Having said that, you should measure them and make sure they are within tolerance anyway but they should be fine.

It doesn't say it makes 800bhp, it just says it "flows enough air to make 800". So in other they've done a bunch of guestimates with the turbo compressor map flow...

There are two points where the loom is earthed on the intake manifold, one front one rear. There is also an earth lead from the rear engine hook to the bulkhead.

I suppose the clutch slave cylinder could leak through the shaft seal and run down inside the bellhousing. If you take the inspection cover off the passenger side you might be able to see, otherwise the slave cylinder is held on by two bolts - if you unbolt it you can pull it out and have a look and see if you can see anything.

Most likely engine oil leaking from the rear main seal. That would explain why your clutch has been slipping too.

Don't think you can clear coat it, at least not according to the thread on sf, it's just fabric. If you look at the close ups you can see it looks quite fuzzy. You'd be better off using the real carbon fibre with an adhesive backing you can get for relatively flat areas. You couldn't use it for doing the dash as there's too many curves but it's reasonably flexible.

For the GT35R oil inlet you want one of these: http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=ATP-OIL-021&Category_Code=GTBB That goes from the thread on the turbo to -4 (and has an oil restrictor which is very important). Then you want a -4 90 degree fitting like this: http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=ATP-FTG-016&Category_Code=ATP-FTG1 Finally if you have a -3 oil feed hose you'll need a -4 to -3 adaptor like this: http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=ATP-FTG-026&Category_Code=ATP-FTG1 Dunno what the problem people are having with returns is, you just need one of these: http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=ATP-FLA-010&Category_Code=GTBB plus a gasket: http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=GRT-GSK-008&Category_Code=GTBB Then you use a 1/2NPT to -10AN union that your drain hose connects to, like you would with any turbo. The BL kit comes with one.

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I'd forgotten that, lol! Good idea, you'll sell millions. Although the "lady coat" does sound like something out of Silence of the Lambs...

What, A3? :d That's me out of the running for a photo then!

You need a relay with a low trigger voltage - if you use an auto relay that's got a 12v trigger voltage it may not work. When I did this ages ago with the stock ECU I found it would occasionally switch on and off as the ECU pulses the voltage as Ryan says. You'd hear it chattering. I added a capacitor to smooth the supply out and it worked fine.

Cheers, thought it might be there but just wanted to check!

Can someone have a look and tell me where the rear engine earth strap bolts to? The one that goes from the rear engine hook. I've completely forgotten where it bolts up to, the rear bulkhead somewhere or the block itself.

Yeah, but normal driving is boring...