SimonB

Have you still got the 2nd cat in? Should pass with just the one. In any case if you take it to Triton and get them to take it for MOT to the place they use with the cat in the boot they should pass it - they will fit it, test it and then remove it again, honest

Why? As I say you haven't got one!

I thought it was an ODB2 thing - for emissions reasons the ECU has to monitor the emissions systems and report a fault if they aren't working. In any case you have a Jspec so you haven't got a sub O2 sensor have you?

Have a look on mkiv.com here John: http://mkiv.com/techarticles/auto_to_6spd_swap/index.html

Just realised that thanks to the power of Sky+ I can rewind and find out the figures! For the Scooby it was optimax 249bhp bp ultimate 248bhp supermarket UL 235bhp Torque was: optimax 258ft/lbs bp ultimate 248ft/lbs supermarket UL 232ft/lbs.

Basically on a normal hatch it made no difference. On a Scooby BP ultimate produced more power and torque, and Optimax slightly more power than BP and a chunk more torque. Can't remember the figures now, but it was a reasonable improvement.

Fame at last for Pete then! Results pretty much as expected...

LOL! Good line...

It'll be a hose, VSV or actuator or something like that.

10psi is pretty low oil pressure at tickover. I see more like 20psi at the lowest. I see you've got cams so that would explain it. I expect the stock warning light is set to come on at 15psi or so which normally you would never see.

Voted again!

The problem with Ferraris is that it's very expensive to put miles on them. You have to change the timing belt every 30k miles I think it is, and to do this the engine has to come out, so it will cost at least 3 grand. Even the minor service is going to cost you 1k I would think. Besides, why would you want a car that's slower than a TT?

I've just been looking at the Emanage ultimate as I was thinking of upgrading my Emanage blue at some point. In the instructions it says "On vehicles with low resistance injectors without dropping resistors change the injectors to high resistance injectors or use dropping resistors". Presumably this is why you need the adaptor. There wouldn't be any mention on the US sites because they wouldn't need it having high impedence injectors like the UK specs.

Yeah that's right, and they usually don't cover anything "subject to periodic replacement". Which is just about anything. Oh, and they don't cover anything unless it has actually failed. So when I tried to claim for a new rear wheel bearing as it had too much play they wouldn't cover it because it hadn't actually failed and was subject to periodic replacement. Total waste of money IMHO.

No you can't, it stops individual injectors from firing, so you get no fuel at all - the spark fires but there's nothing to burn. The only reason I can think of why you'd want spark cut is if you were using nitrous. You can't use it with fuel cut because you still get the extra fuel injected with the nitrous even when it cuts the rest which would make you run very lean.

Is it Red Bull, everyone else seems to be going there atm...

Try Think Auto (otherwise known as Mocal). http://www.thinkauto.com They've got pretty much any adaptor known to man, and I think they'll make you one even if it's not a standard one they have.

Yeah, good point, the flanges are different so a UK decat pipe won't fit a Jspec.

If it's a J spec then it's not a lamda probe at all, but the cat overheat sensor, which can indeed be just tied up out of the way. If you look you will see the actual Lamda probe in the elbow that connects to the cat pipe.

You mean the EGBV or exhaust gas bypass valve. Have a look in the technical articles/faqs on here and you'll find a description of what it does and where it is. It's more than likely a dodgy hose.

Woohoo! Can't wait for this one...

You may well have some problems using 650s with the stock turbos in normal sequential mode. That's because in order to trim the fueling back you will have to scale the airflow signal with a blue Emanage. So for example at 1 BAR the ECU will see say 0.7BAR and therefore use less duty cycle on the injectors so you'll end up with the correct fueling. However, the transition between turbo 1 and both turbos being online relies on the ECU opening the EGBV to pre-spool the 2nd turbo. It does this progressively depending on boost. So if you've scaled the boost signal it will open the EGBV later which could result in you overboosting on the first turbo and the 2nd not coming in properly. This is what happened to me when I did this because I run more than normal fuel pressure, and I scaled it less than you would need to for 650s. Of course you could get round this by running in parallel, but then you lose all the advantages of the sequential system.

Didn't know you had a Westy Gerry! Did you build it?

I'm looking into the whole single thing at the mo, and the Arnout manifold is what I'd go for, especially after having a look at yours the other day. So I'd have to have a downpipe custom made, I was just wondering if there would be issues making it meet up with the normal position for the 2nd cat/ decat pipe, and maybe that was why the kits came with their own midpipes. It was Stealth Systems you used wasn't it? If I go down this route I was thinking of getting them to make up the various pipework I'd need.

A question for you single turbo peeps. Pretty much all the single kits I've seen seem to come with a downpipe that mates up to a custom midpipe. Why is this? Why not a downpipe that mates up with the normal stock midpipe flange? Presumably the custom one means you can't put the second cat back in for MOT purposes, so what do you do then? Or have I misunderstood and the kit downpipes actually do this anyway?