SimonB

I have to say my respect for him has gone up after seeing that, fair play to him. Mind you it was at 0 before...

Well hey, I can answer that one at least. The cruise control stalk is different on the earlier cars. Since the main market in Japan would be the later cars I expect they didn't want to go to the trouble of producing a special version with a different cowling to fit the old style. So it's easier to say it's only for later cars. You could say the same about quite a few bodykits too, they are advertised as fitting facelift cars only because they have holes for the newer indicators. That doesn't mean they won't fit the earlier ones, just that some modification is required and you can't advertise something as fitting a car unless it does so out of the box.

It will be fine, the sump plug is obviously the low point of the sump to allow the oil to drain out, so the sensor will be covered by oil. You will get quite different (lower) readings from the sump than from the filter area of course because the oil sits there for a period of time before being recirculated. No need to be sarcy just because someone hasn't immediately answered you the same day btw, I didn't see your post yesterday and people don't all sit here 24 hours a day reading all the threads just to answer your questions you know!

But that's not what you stated is it? You said that TRD had told you the airbag would not work and that you had taken your TRD wheel off as a result. You have a facelift Supra which from what you are now saying the wheel would be fine on, so why did you take it off? And why change your story now and say it will only work on facelift cars? And if TRD did not export the wheels, then how come you yourself have posted info from a US site selling it? Not to mention all the other traders throughout the world that sell it? I think it's pretty clear you're attempting to use it as an excuse to further your own agenda. I have no interest in your dispute with Nic, and no bias one way or the other, but I have been a member of this BBS for a long time and I can tell you I'm getting pretty fed up of all the innuendo. If you have evidence then post it. For example the email you have from TRD highlighting the problem. If you have a specific complaint then post it, but don't keep posting the same vague crap because nobody is interested and its getting very irritating.

Hello & from another local! There's a few less of us round here than there used to be, but still a few!

No they aren't OEM ones. They do actually look a bit like the ones off the TRD widebody kit but presumably they aren't. I don't actually know what they are. Personally I'm not a fan of rear spats, they always look "stuck on" to me. I much prefer something like the Trial rear bumper, but that's obviously gonna be much more dosh.

That's be quiet then! It'll be like running with no exhaust at all.

God I saw an ad for that today, what a crock! Show me the way to Santas Grotto. *groan*

No, not mine, I wish! Found it on one of the websites in the credits at the end, http://www.rcdrift.com

Check this out: http://img496.imageshack.us/img496/3766/img00030um.jpg http://img266.imageshack.us/img266/5199/img00017tl.jpg http://img266.imageshack.us/img266/1493/img02702dx.jpg

That is absolutely amazing!

You're all assuming a rear wheel drive car with the rear losing grip due to excessive power. Remember most people have front wheel drive cars, so if the front loses grip and slides right you would turn right to regain grip.

Nah, official weight of the TT in Jspec form at least is 1510Kg IIRC. A lot lighter than people think...

Any excuse to post those pics of your car eh CJ?

LOL! I thought you meant stay off the booze until you'd got the girls through the door there! Best of luck with it all. Looks like Wilts is the new Bournemouth when it comes to the Supra posse then...

Haha! That's what everyone says. I said that too when I bought mine. Not so original now, LOL! Definitely looks like quicksilver.

Haha! I remember that, that was the meet where Steve offered to buy everyone a beer and then regretted it almost immediately! My first post was very dull. I was asking about whether you could re-use the stock boost sensor for a Blitz turbo timer. It was several months after I joined though, guess I was lurking for ages...

Awww, bless, your first post was to be nice about my seats!

The anti-roll bar is attached to the suspension at each side with a link and runs across behind the wheels. Where it is attached to the underside of the car on each side there is a metal bracket bolted to the underside with a rubber bush around the actual bar inside. The idea of the bar is that if both sides of the suspension compress both sides of the bar move up and it pivots around inside the bush. If one side only compresses it tries to twist the bar, which the bar resists. That's what stops the car rolling so much. If the bush is a bit perished or whatever it might creak when the bar pivots. So you can try unbolting the mount and putting some lithium grease between the rubber bush and the bar.

It could be the bushes on the anti-roll bar. You could try unbolting them and putting some white lithium grease on and bolting them up tight again.

Only the top and bottom of the shaft that goes to the cylinder is threaded, the middle is just a round bar that you rotate after undoing the lock nut a bit. At least it is on mine! That lengthens and shortens the bar which moves the pedal up and down. You'll probably need to hang yourself upside down in the footwell with a torch and you should be able to see.

Had exactly the same thing at my place last year, the car park was lethal. Took me 5 minutes to tiptoe over to the door without falling over. I asked why it hadn't been gritted and the next day a sign appeared on the gate saying "caution slippery" or something. That was obviously easier than getting off their arses and gritting it!

It sounds like you have the wrong decat pipe. If it has a hole for an O2 sensor it's probably a UK spec one, which won't fit because the flange where it bolts up to the turbos is different. You need to get a Jspec one.

The nut is just a lock nut, you undo that and then turn the shaft itself. It moves the pedal as a whole, which effectively moves the bite point as well. The other bolt is there to limit the maximum height of the pedal. You can adjust it to stop the pedal moving up to its full extent when your foot isn't on it, but be careful because you could easily set it so the clutch never engages properly which will wear things out very quickly.

It's just the front tyres scrubbing across the ground before they rotate as they are pushed from behind, nothing to worry about. It's just the results of having wide front tyres and the Supras normal suspension set up with a bit of negative camber. All Supras will do it to some extent.