SimonB

I've got 'em. They were only standard on the facelift RZ, and they are pretty rare. Most facelifts are the RZ-S.

Look at my garage entry for a pic on a gunmetal car. Not quite the same as quicksilver but near enough.

Yeah, you get a limited number of claims in 3 or 5 years or something. Also you don't lose all your no claims if you claim without having them protected, you lose 3 years or so IIRC. You have to work out whether it's worth it or not.

Yeah true, I'm just a lazy sod, hate struggling to change the filter even in the standard place, let alone sticking out further!

Not true. You have to declare any accidents you had in the last 3 years or whatever when you get another quote, and yes they will charge you more if you've had one, but you still keep all your no claims, and the renewal letter from your existing company will show that. If you lost your no claims you would get charged more because of the accident, AND you would have less or no no claims too.

Don't bother with the kits by GReddy or Blitz, they are very expensive for what they are. You can get all the bits you need from Think Auto. 19 row 235mm cooler fits nicely in the passenger side. Definitely use proper braided hose with threaded unions not the push fit stuff. If you want a cooler as well you will need 1 oil filter takeoff (go for the side entry one - there's more room), 1 remote filter mount, an oilstat and the cooler. You can't use one of the takeoffs with a built in thermostat with a remote filter or you'd only get filtered oil when it got hot! You go from the takeoff to the remote filter, then from there to the oilstat and back to the takeoff. The other side of the oilstat goes to the cooler. So you need 5 lengths of hose with 10 connectors. Some of these are best made with 90 degree connectors. Then you need 4 male-male unions to hook up those to the takeoff and remote filter mount. You need to decide where you are going to put everything before you can decide what connectors etc you need. I have the remote filter under the car and the oilstat on the sidewall. Oh, and make sure you use bonded seals between the male-male unions and the takeoff plate/remote filter mount if they are BSP threads or PTFE tape if they are NPTF threads otherwise they will leak. Done properly it will be absolutely fine. The oil cooler makes a big difference on track. I was getting very high oil temps after only 10 minutes or so, now I can happily lap away without a problem. I can look out the list of parts I used if you want. In fact, I think it's already posted on here somewhere.

The E01 has a start boost pressure level. Below that level it leaves the wastegate completely shut, above it you go to the usual gain etc controls.

I've driven in Europe in 38C temps for hours with a Blitz FMIC before I got my oil cooler with no overheating problems. Even on track I never had a problem with water temps, although I did get high oil temps. With the oil cooler I have no problems. Of course I have a proper gearbox so don't have to worry about auto coolers...

Wow, 4 duplicate replies, that must be a record! You have to cut the rubber off, yes. You will also need a new Momo leather gaitor because the whole thing is in one piece.

You don't even need to declare those I think, they were a standard option that could have been fitted from new.

Batman begins is very good. I really liked Mr & Mrs Smith too.

Did you try Sky, the club insurer?

Yeah it is. It's just one big piece incorporating the spats and diffuser looking bits.

The rear is one big all-in-one bit.

Not necessarily. The whole piston moving in the wrong direction thing is the absolute worst case. Basically when the fuel burns it wants to expand. That's what normally pushes the piston down. When it burns you get a wave of pressure in the cylinder from the spark outwards. When it burns in more than one place you get another wave of pressure going the other way. They crash into each other, and the pressure is much higher than normal too because the fuel has burned faster than normal so the piston is not as far down as it would be normally, so they resonate which is what makes the knock noise. The resonating plus high pressure can cause big damage, even if the piston is on its way down as it should be. EDIT: beaten to it!

Well if you think of the fuel/air mixture in your cylinder like a match, normally the spark is like striking the match at one end. It takes time to burn right to the other end and use all the fuel up. Energy is released throughout that time. Pre-ignition is like the match just spontaneously catching fire. But det could also happen by you striking the match and the heat from it bursting into flames making the far end catch fire at the same time. The match would burn much faster than normal and release all that energy super fast.

I've got Philips blue vision from http://www.powerbulbs.co.uk. Much better than stock, much whiter than normal although not the same as HID of course.

Glad to see you've seen the light and discovered the joys of the manual gearbox!

Det is not necessarily the mixture igniting before the spark ignites it - that is pre-ignition. Normally it takes time for the mixture to burn from the bit right by the spark plug to the rest. Det occurs when this happens uncontrollably, much faster than normal - the sudden increase in pressure causes a pressure wave.

You wanna get a boost gauge in there Bry, find out what it's doing.

Have you got any plans to change that now you can subtract fuel in the injector thingy with the Ultimate? I guess since you've got a good map anyway it'd be a hassle, but I guess it would be much better to not fudge the airflow and adjust fueling with the injector table only?

You think that one was bad, check this out: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/FERRARI-F40-replica-swop-show-car-kit-car-swap_W0QQitemZ4598563427QQcategoryZ18180QQcmdZViewItem

PMSL! That's classic.

They look a bit like weirdly retrimmed standard Recaros, with the normal harness slots covered over.

No flashes = no problem. The reason there are two flashes is it takes 2 pictures a fixed time apart. Then they can prove the cars speed by seeing how many lines on the grid the car has moved between pictures. So if you slowed down enough before the 2nd flash you could avoid it. I think they only bother looking at the picture if you challenge it though, otherwise they use the speed the radar came up with, which would be at the time of the first photo.