SimonB

Personally I love all the little flicks and winglets, it's the amazing level of attention to detail in every area on a modern F1 car that makes it special. But then I am an engineer! I thought the McLaren looked absoltely fantastic last year, and that new Williams looks beautiful too, nice job! Certainly beats the old Walrus nose! I really hope they don't impose that stupid rule to limit updates and ban winglets. The whole point of F1 is that it's the pinnacle of engineering and ingenuity. It'll end up like glorified F3000 if you take that away.

I've never seen one, it'd be good though.

Just leave them off, the brakes feel much better without them anyway. You might get a bit of squeel, but I haven't noticed any.

LOL! That's summed up what I meant!

Yep, that's why I own a Supra - it's reliable enough to drive every day so why be miserable driving a crap car every day and only use it at weekends. Driven mine pretty much every day for over 4 years!

Well basically the level should be up to the hot mark after driving when it's up to temp, and at the cold mark when the engine's cold. That's it really.

Please no Jaegermeister this year though...

The RPS line is a bit confusing because there are two parts to the name, one for the pressure plate and one for the disc. There are 2 types of pressure plate, Max and Sport. The Max is 38% stiffer that stock and the Sport is 10%. Then there are 2 types of disc, street which is just a standard Toyota one, and a 6 puck one. So there's actually no such thing as just a RPS street. There is the Max Street and the Sport Street which both have a standard Toyota disc but with different pressure plates. Sport Street is supposedly good for 525 ft/lbs or torque, Max Street 660 ft/lbs. Then there are the Sport with 6 puck which is supposed to hold 600 ft/lbs and the Max with 6 puck which is 825. So probably some of the people who are saying they have a RPS street have the Sport one and some have the Max one. The Max definitely feels pretty stiff. The other thing you need to think of with clutches is whether you have the standard flywheel or a lightweight one. If you have the standard fly you want an unsprung disc. If you have a LW fly you want a sprung disc. The street clutches from RPS are unsprung (as they use the normal Toyota disc). If you want a sprung one you have to go for the 6 puck versions, which come as either sprung or unsprung versions. It's the same with SouthBend, they have sprung and unsprung versions. I had a sprung SouthBend kevlar clutch and the pressure plate was great, felt just the same as stock. But the sprung disc was rubbish, it broke up where the springs were mounted - there's a photo on here somewhere. I think if I was buying a new one now I would ideally go for a South Bend pressure plate with a different disc, something like the Horsepowerfreaks bronze one. If you're just BPU though a standard one will be fine, or a South Bend pressure plate with a standard disc.

Yeah that was me. I've got a harness bar that goes behind the seats, and a clamp thingy that clamps to that. It's a Sony camcorder with an image stabiliser too, that makes things a lot better. Think I'm going to get one of those bullet cams this year and stick it on the front bumper for a better sense of speed!

Web cams don't have a fast enough update rate. You want a bullet cam and a camcorder. Or just a camcorder if you have anything to mount it on.

Cheers, going to make a definite point of not blowing my engine up...

LOL! Think I'm going to upgrade to the Emanage Ultimate, but I may well start off with the one I've got. I'm going to do it in 2 stages, first get all the essentials in and the car running and mapped basically so I can drive it, then change injectors, probably switch to the ultimate, get some proper air ducting to the filter and get it mapped fully on a dyno with the timing done etc. Aiming to get it all done by June hopefully!

Nothing too exciting mate, just going for a Garrett GT35R on one of Arnout's cast manifolds rather than the simple way of just buying a kit. More hassle but worth it I think.

True, true. You can push stock tubbies more than most people do though, provided you have the correct fueling. 1.2BAR is the limit because of the fueling more than anything else. Of course you're out of the efficiency range but even so. Anyway, even though I'm the biggest fan of the stock sequential system, even I've given in and am going single now! Although I'm doing it my own way of course...

Youcan get close, but not quite there. Mine clocked 430 at the hubs on Thors dyno at 1.3bar with uprated fueling etc. That's pretty much the limit.

I expect so. Let's hope the organisers/police are a bit better this year. Last year they wouldn't let me through to the club stand, directed me right into the middle of the wrong end club stands, then I had to wait until the police started letting cars through and then ages more to get back out because the entrance was blocked before eventually making it. Year before that they forgot to allocate our space!

You'll be fine, my car was completely stock when I did my first track day. The important thing is to start off slow and build your speed up as you go. Make sure you do a cool down lap to slow down gradually and let the brakes cool down gradually or you can warp them. And leave your handbrake off when you stop if you can. Keep an eye on your petrol gauge as well, it's easy to forget and suddenly realise you're about to run out. That would be seriously embarrasing! Only trouble you'll have is getting addicted!

You don't NEED anything to enjoy the Supe on track, but lots of things are nice to have. Good seats are a real bonus. I personally don't like 4 point harnesses, I think they can be more dangerous than normal belts unless you have a proper 5 or 6 point set with an anti-sub belt. If you're going for harnesses I would get a harness bar and seats with slots for sub belts and do it properly. Unless you're going to do a few track days I'd stick with what you have and spend your dosh on fuel, tyres and brake pads! Just do 20 minute sessions and you'll be fine. If you're going to do a few then go for an oil cooler and fit an oil temp/pressure gauge at the same time. Oh, and if you've got the big calipers you've got big disks as well.

Yes, that'll be for an EGT probe. One of the holes in the DP is for the stock narrowband O2 sensor and the other for your wideband.

LOL! Ooops.

Ooo, unlucky! You might be able to get one quickly, but fitting it isn't gonna be quick, it's a total nightmare.

I would change the oil before you go. Brunters is an open pit lane event, so you stay out as long as you want. Keep your sessions to 15 minutes and let it cool down between. Do a cool down lap to let your brakes cool down gradually, and leave your handbrake off when you're letting the car cool down. Obviously check tyre pressures, fluids etc. Start slow and build up speed over the day, don't try and race people and keep an eye on your mirror and if someone's behind you back off on a straight and let them by. Much better to do that and give yourself some room than try and stay ahead of them, that's very annoying.

I track mine, but it's also my dailer driver, so it's aimed at being the best all-round setup. I have standard Recaros (retrimmed) modified to take a crutch strap with 6 point Sparco harnesses. The shoulder straps are connected to a Sparco harness bar behind the seats. I've got UK calipers with DBA slotted discs (not the gold drilled ones which they don't recommend for track use) and Chris Wilson's fast road pads, braided hoses and decent DOT 5.1 fluid. Suspension wise the only mod I have is TRD anti-roll bars, which are well worth it. Oh, and a Cusco strut brace but that doesn't really do anything apart from look nice. The thing you will really need is an oil cooler - I have a 19 row Mocal one with oilstat and remote filter. Also have oil temp and pressure gauges to keep an eye on temps. I'm just about to add a small Mocal oil cooler for the power steering too because that was overheating last time. I've got a set of standard 17s I've used for track days and I've used my Lexus 18s too. The standard ones are probably slightly better (and the tyres are cheaper), but there's not much in it. I'll probably put some Toyo R888 track tyres on the 17s when I can afford it - using normal eagle F1s at the mo. Depends whether you want to go as fast as you can or just have fun.

Simple, transplant the gearbox from the Aristo into the Supe. Oh no, hang on, that probably wouldn't go down too well would it...

Turning the wheel causes the power steering pump to put more load on the engine, which can increase engine revs so that would explain why doing that changes things. Can't think what would cause your problem in the first place though!