SimonB

But it shouldn't matter whether you had the FCD in or not though, because if you had the pressure sensor that should have been the source for your maps, not the MAP. In your example, the Emanage would see 1.1bar through its own sensor, that's what it's for.

It's true you should remove it, but if you have the pressure sensor then this is what the Emanage uses to base its maps on, not the stock MAP. The stock MAP is not really any use above 1BAR anyway, that's why you use the pressure sensor.

If you're talking about the Emanage blue, you need the unit, main harness (which comes with it), ignition harness, injector harness, pressure sensor and pressure sensor harness really. Unless you have a Profec E01 boost controller, in which case you don't need the pressure sensor and harness, but you do need a different pressure sensor harness to connect the Emanage to the E01. You can either get the Support tool which comes with a cable, or download a dodgy copy and buy a clone cable - I have a USB one I bought from a guy in Hong Kong I think it was. Have a look on the yahoo group under files.

That's the mesh that EPS sells!

I would go back to the place that you got it from and tell them it went flat - it might be a defective tyre in which case they should send it back to Goodyear and give you a replacement. Worth a try anyway. But if not definitely worth changing it.

Well since nobody seems to know I've done some digging and had a look and I'm pretty sure they are 10mm or -6 (3/8").

Yep another EPS here, great stuff, but expensive and a sod to handle without slicing yourself to bits or it unraveling!

Thing is though, once you've set your fuel pressure (if you have an adjustable pressure reg which you do with a manual gauge) it shouldn't need monitoring IMO. If you have a AFR gauge that would show any problem. If the pump went or something you'd be sure to notice that without needing a gauge!

Yes! I win the competion to post the answer to the question that loads of people know! Too slow the lot of you...

Very common, it means your brake fluid is too low, top it up. It sloshes around causing the light to go on and off you see.

It doesn't. You just get no boost. If it's got a air flow meter then it would cause trouble because the ECU wouldn't know how much air was going in to calculate the correct fueling.

I've got one of those for oil temp and pressure. Very good bit of kit, pretty cheap too. You can get them with a chrome ring (oooerr) and/or blue backlight too. I wouldn't bother with fuel pressure personally though, I'd go for oil temp and pressure.

Basically, when you have negative boost the engine is sucking in more air than the turbo is forcing through, and when it's positive the turbo is forcing more air in than the engine would normally use. The amount of boost produced by a turbo depends on the speed it's spinning at, which depends on the amount and speed of exhaust gas that's passing through it. When the engine is not under much load there's not much exhaust so it doesn't spin fast enough.

George McCrae - Rock Your Baby. Never heard of him or it! http://homepage.ntlworld.com/gary.hart/lyricsm/images/mcrae.jpg

Does anyone know the sizes of the 2 coolant hose barbs that are on the return elbow to the rad - the ones that people block up when going single? Need to get some hose and don't really fancy taking them off to measure! Also, the front coolant feed that goes to the stock turbos - the one on the water pump.

You can get stick on ones from GT graphix, that's where mine came from.

Yep, uprated on the facelift RZ apparently... Dunno what exactly was different, if you can read Japanese you can tell me! http://mkiv.com/specifications/99_brochure/1999-20.jpg

Yeah, it's really only there to stop your rad getting punctured in a slow speed accident and to give something for the stock bumper to attach to IMO.

But of course, the only proper colour for a Supra... Quicksilver is a different colour btw, gunmetal is 6NO on the chassis plate, quicksilver is 1B9 I think. If you want to find out what model you have, have a look on the chassis plate at the model code. It will be E-JZA80-A followed by 4 letters. The first of these is J for an aerotop, L for normal. The 2nd is F for manual, P for auto. The 3rd is the one you want, Q for RZ, S for SZR, V for SZ or RZS and Z for GZ. The 4th letter is F for non-turbo, Z for turbo. So mine is a E-JZA80-ALFQZ, the one to have of course...

Aha, but I can beat that because mine's not only a non-vvti 6sp, but a RZ too, complete with Recaros, uprated ABS and big brakes etc

Maybe he'll use all the spare time he now has to fix his brakes...

Actually when I put the viper stripes on for Le Mans last year (it was the convoy theme) I thought they looked pretty good on the Supra.

That's not actually the correct way to do it. Static fuel pressure should be set without the engine running. What you need to do is run the fuel pump with the engine not running and check the pressure. To do that you connect the +B and FP pins on the diagnostics port in the engine bay and turn the ignition on.

The stripes stayed on for a while, the shopping list didn't last that long because I didn't bother getting them made out of vinyl or anything, I just printed them out on transparent sticker paper and sprayed them with clearcoat. So they weren't exactly waterproof!

That would be me! Wasn't the Cannonball though, it was Le Mans last year.