SimonB

That's what I'm going to do, take some time off work and do it all in a week or so hopefully. I've still got a couple of bits I need to sort out and a couple of bits that haven't arrived yet - exhaust wrap, clamps, that sort of thing. I'm aiming for end of March I reckon.

I'm in the exact same boat here! Just waiting for a few more bits n bobs before I can set a date for the great turbo installation... Difference is I need to get mine back on the road pretty quick as I use it every day! I have a spreadsheet of all the bits with different colours for ordered, arrived etc. It's a major feat of logistics I tell you! Got a mock up sat in the lounge too, turbo, manifold, pipework, oil and water lines and fittings all attached...

ABS was standard on all TTs, but optional on earlier NAs IIRC.

V160 oil used to be mega expensive, it was £30 a litre or something like that, but they put the price down recently.

It's what heats the air when you turn your heating on. It's like a radiator that hot engine coolant flows through - the air passes through it and gets heated up. They get can get corroded with age and leak like radiators do. Trouble is you have to take the dash completely out to get to it.

http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/getrag/no_redline/getrag.html There you go. Personally I would take the opinion of the guys that designed the gearbox rather than someone who sells oils, but there you go...

Try this one... http://www.machinemart.co.uk/images/products/hi/MM040210071G.jpg

It's been confirmed by Getrag themselves. There's a tech note from them on the subject on mkiv.com somewhere. You should never use anything but V160 oil. Short shifters move the pivot point higher, which means the effort required increases. Simple leverage really. Matter of taste whether you prefer a longer easier throw or a shorter notchier one really. I quite like mine.

It's a special spanner for compression flare nuts on pipes, so you don't round them off. They're kind of a cross between an open ended spanner and a ring spanner. Halfords sell them. Like this: http://im.edirectory.co.uk/products/1629/i/16556.jpg The fuel pump ECU is on the passenger side in the boot, up inside.

I didn't have too much trouble getting it undone, it was just trying to get the new one on too fast with no enough light to see what I was doing while freezing my arse off! You need to use a flare nut spanner. To stop loads of fuel going everywhere you just disconnect the fuel pump and crank the engine a few times to depressurise the lines.

Yep! When I did mine I managed to get the old one off, but then it started absolutely pissing it down. Tried to get the new one on while lying in a rapidly enlarging puddle of freezing cold water under the car and stripped the thread on it trying to do it too fast. Finally gave up before hyperthermia set in - had to leave the car up on stands at the bottom of my drive & take the next morning off work to put the bloody old one back on as I'd knackered the new one. Suffice to say when I'd ordered another new one I got the garage to do it for £40 or whatever.

6NO is gunmetal, it's just that Toyota seem to call it greyish green metalic. That photo of a 6NO earlier is weird, I think it's just the light that's making it look green. I've never seen another photo that looks green like that. Quicksilver is lighter than gunmetal but darker than normal silver.

If you take the undertray off you might find you can get a pair of molegrips on the other end of the sheared off bolt and take it out from above if you see what I mean.

Yep, same here. Nationwide for buying stuff from the USA or abroad - by far the cheapest way of paying for stuff in foreign currency. I've also got a Morgan Stanley mastercard which I buy everything on because it gives 0.5% cashback for the 1st 5K or something and then 1% after that. I then pay it off every month. It's like getting 1% off everything you buy.

I've been busy buying stuff for my upcoming single turbo setup, and I'm well impressed with a couple of the companies I ordered stuff from in the US. The first one is called Vertex Industries / Verocious motorsport. They make pipe sections for making up intercooler, intake and exhaust pipes. I ordered a few polished aluminium pipes and silicon couplers on a Saturday night, they were here first thing on Tuesday morning, very cheap too and good quality! Even better was ATP. They do Garrett turbos and associated connectors, flanges, bits of plumbing etc. I ordered a load of bits this Friday evening late, including my nice shiny new Garrett GT35R. They were the only place doing one with a 0.81 A/R GT4 flange with a Vband exhaust connection. It turned up first thing this morning (Monday) before I went to work. Very impressed. Anyway, anyone considering piecing their own kit together rather than using one of the kits should definitely check them out. Ordered from both straight from the websites with no fuss & they take international credit cards. http://stores.channeladvisor.com/verociousmotorsports http://www.atpturbo.com/

Can't help you with a self-drive, but I used a local recovery place a while back who had a low loading transporter. They only charged me £34 to transport it around 15 miles.

Happy birthday!

Yeah but the standard seats have no shoulder harness slots anyway, so you shouldn't be using harnesses at all with them. I had my standard Recaros modified & retrimmed so they have slots in the base for the anti-sub straps.

I think anyone is crazy to use harnesses without mounting them properly. If the angle of the shoulder belts is more than a bit below horizontal it can compress your spine and do serious damage in an accident. If the belts are too long they will stretch in an impact. Without an anti-sub belt the waist belt can pull up in a crash, potentially into the soft tissue above your waist, which is going to be very serious. Normal belts don't do this because as the shoulder belt tightens it pulls the lap belt towards you. So you must have all the belts absolutely tight. If you don't mount them properly they are much more dangerous than normal seatbelts. Strut braces are no where near strong enough, the rear belt points are too low. Use a harness bar and a proper 5 or 6 point harness is my advice.

Here's my video from the Japanese Performance Show at Santa Pod back in 2004. Including some in-car footage of my crap drag technique against Jake.

Here's my video from JapFest 05, with a fair bit of action from my in-car cam from the Supra track session.

[video=youtube;kennQNE-AHI]

This is Ray's fantastic (and hilarious) performance at JAE in 2005, together with what happend if you get a load of pissed up Supra owners under a Gazebo at night.