SimonB
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Everything posted by SimonB
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Try Demon Tweeks, you can get ducting up to a large size, and also round ally mouths, or plastic ducts. Like this:- http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/resources/images/zoom/GRE_COLDAIRFUNNEL.jpg or http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/resources/images/zoom/RVER01SE6004.jpg Here's some of the ducts they do:- http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/resources/images/zoom/GLOID.jpg And hose: http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/resources/images/zoom/SAMSFD.jpg Here you go.
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GT Graphix is the place I used. They do stick on ones too. http://www.gtgrafix.com/
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They are made to a size that restricts to around 1.1BAR on a standard car with a 3 inch exhaust and 2 2.5 inch decats. Then you fit it and see what boost you get. If it's less than you want you whip it out and file it out a bit and try again. That's basically it!
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How's that going to work at MOT time? The size of the ring totally depends on the size of your exhaust, how restrictive it is, and varies even from car to car. You'd need to adjust it until it was right.
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WTD: Pictures Of Water Cooled Singles On Supras
SimonB replied to terribleturner's topic in Supra Chat
Should be fine I would have thought. -
You all realise tinting the front side windows is illegal now right? In theory they can impound your car until it's removed, although more likely you'll get a 7 day jobbie. With 50% front you're bound to get pulled over I would have thought...
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You can, but there's not much point. The viscous fan is very efficient and moves a lot of air. You'll be lucky to find an electric fan that will match it and if you do it will put a load on the alternator and hence the engine equivalent to the load the viscous fan does. The only reason for doing it would be to clear some room at the front of the engine bay or because your stock one has failed.
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You don't need to reset, it won't make any difference. The best way to go about it is find a sympathetic MOT place, put the cat in the boot and tell them they can refit it, test the car and then put it back if necessary. That way they can fudge the test, but it covers them if anyone official was to challenge how it passed. Of course if you don't have a friendly MOT place...
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It's got Sky+ functionality built in I think. That's why it's £300.
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Dusty takes Paypal, so just pay with that using your credit card.
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WTD: Pictures Of Water Cooled Singles On Supras
SimonB replied to terribleturner's topic in Supra Chat
I don't think so. The pump just keeps the water circulating AFAIK. -
WTD: Pictures Of Water Cooled Singles On Supras
SimonB replied to terribleturner's topic in Supra Chat
The top and bottom ones are the oil feed and return. The water ones are on each side. At least they are on my turbo! -
Oh right yes, keep forgetting some of you have slushboxes. Well, get a proper gearbox and then remove your trac ecu and mount it there then...
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WTD: Pictures Of Water Cooled Singles On Supras
SimonB replied to terribleturner's topic in Supra Chat
I'm sure that's not right. The rear port is the feed to the 2nd turbo, the one on the water pump is the feed to the 1st turbo. If you used those two you'd have no flow of coolant through the turbo, both ends would be trying to pump water through! -
It would be keeping your attention if you were going round the 120R at full speed, as you'd not have made it round the corner since it's the 130R! Sorry, couldn't resist...
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WTD: Pictures Of Water Cooled Singles On Supras
SimonB replied to terribleturner's topic in Supra Chat
Isn't the one at the back a feed as well though? -
WTD: Pictures Of Water Cooled Singles On Supras
SimonB replied to terribleturner's topic in Supra Chat
I'm going to use one of the nipples, and remove the other one, drill and tap the hole and seal it with a 12mm bung. Then the feed I'm taking from the nipple on the pump. Got to be the easiest way. -
Good idea. Bit chunky though!
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I was just thinking about this today. If you go on a track day they always say you have to have one easily accesible or they'll just tie the rope on to whatever they can find to tow you out of the gravel trap if you get in there! Which would result in an expensive fibreglass tearing noise in my case I think. About time I got one sorted out.
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Why not just remove the stock TC ECU and put your RLTC in its place on the mounting bracket. That's what I did.
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Simple anser to that is use a company that lets you can pay by credit card and has reasonable prices. I wouldn't touch Western Union with a bargepole. At worst use a direct bank transfer from your bank which will cost £9.
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The airbag light comes on if you turn on the ignition with the top bit of the dah not connected. You'll be fine with the doorcards off.
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It should be easy. You've probably missed a screw somewhere. Have you got the one in the door handle? And the pop fasteners on the edge?
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Miami GT sell these.
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Yes, I agree. Bit tricky to fabricate though I would think given the amount of room available. For the size of turbo I'm using there should be no problem with back pressure, should be plenty enough flow through a 3inch pipe I think. Of course I might change this around later, it's just handy to have something pre-fabricated that I can just slot in to get it all running since this is my dailer driver so I can't afford to have it off the road for any length of time.
