SimonB

Nope, US spec NA and TT only.

That's because it's hidden under the heat shield by the turbos along with an old cupboard...

It weighs 1500kg and generates 0.98 lateral G. That's very similar to a 911, I wouldn't say it handles like poo! It's a great track car IMHO...

Standard for now, we'll see about that a bit later. Going to trial fit stuff tomorrow and hopefully my various pipe bends will join up to the intercooler, and my exhaust pipework will join up! The throttle body side intercooler pipe and my new intake pipe are off having bits welded on at the mo until early next week.

This is taken from mkiv.com so it's for US spec of course: Coupe Sport Roof 5 Speed Automatic 5 Speed Automatic Kg Pounds Kg Pounds Kg Pounds Kg Pounds Front 758 1671 767 1691 Front 771 1700 780 1720 Rear 701 1545 710 1565 Rear 714 1574 723 1594 Total 1459 3217 1477 3256 Total 1485 3274 1503 3314 Weight Front Rear Front Rear Weight Front Rear Front Rear Distribution 52% 48% 52% 48% Distribution 52% 48% 52% 48% Turbo Coupe Turbo Sport Roof 6 Speed Automatic 6 Speed Automatic Kg Pounds Kg Pounds Kg Pounds Kg Pounds Front 841 1854 855 1885 Front 855 1885 855 1885 Rear 708 1561 712 1570 Rear 721 1590 726 1601 Total 1549 3415 1567 3455 Total 1576 3474 1581 3486 Weight Front Rear Front Rear Weight Front Rear Front Rear Distribution 54% 46% 55% 45% Distribution 54% 46% 54% 46%

Thought I'd start a thread showing what I'm up to this week and next - fitting my DIY Garrett GT35R single kit! Basic specs: Garrett GT35R turbo, 0.82 A/R T4 flange exhaust housing with Vband outlet. SSE (Arnouts) cast manifold & pipework HKS 50mm racing wastegate custom 3 inch intercooler pipework Other supporting stuff: GReddy Emanage ultimate (replaces my blue one) Innovate LC1 wideband sensor (replaces my AEM one) Power Enterprise 660cc injectors Random Technology 3inch 1st decat pipe (replaces my CW one) 3inch 2nd decat (replaces my CW one) So far I've unwired my Emanage blue and AEM wideband wired my Ultimate and Innovate wideband in, and I've literally just finished stripping the stock turbos off! Didn't take any pictures of that process - there's plenty of info out there already and I couldn't be arsed. Suffice it to say it's not a fun job! Didn't have too much difficulty though, the correct tools are a must here. Make sure you have a nice big breaker bar (I have a 18" and a 24" one from Halfords - does the job brilliantly), good quality 10mm,12mm,13mm,14mm,14mm deep, 17mm, 17mm deep and 19mm sockets, 12mm,13mm and 14mm flexi head ratchet spanners from Halfords, a good 1/2inch ratchet, a good set of wobble bar extensions from Machine Mart (these are brilliant). Oh, and a set of torx spanners for getting studs out can be handy. I used the "take the first turbo off" technique rather than try and get them both off at once. It took me a fair while , probably because I took off more stuff than I needed to, but got there in the end. Here's my engine bay with the turbos off, the pile of remains and a general pic showing my work area - I've pulled the front of the car into the garage - not ideal but does the job.

The sensor failed so I needed to get a new sensor anyway, and I wanted to wire it in to the Emanage ultimate. If you do this you can get the EMU to auto-map (i.e. change the injector mapping automatically in response to the wideband readings). But it only supports a linear input and the AEM I have isn't. I could have bought the gauge display thingy which would have given me a linear output but that and the price of a new sensor is more than the Innovate one, and I don't really want a gauge anyway. The Innovate one has two programmable outputs too, so you can set it up to output any range you want.

Well, I've started work on fitting my single. Changed the oil, and tackled the electronics. Pulled my Emanage and AEM wideband out and wired in my new Emanage ultimate & Innovate LC1 wideband in. Even with a Fields harness it took bloody ages. I never want to crimp another connector in my life! Today I got all that stuff back in the car and it running, then tidied up the front of my garage, pulled the nose of the car in and started dismantling stuff. Got the bumper, and most of the intake side of the turbos off.

DOT5 is the silicon stuff, DOT5.1 is not. Very very unlikely to have DOT5 in there, nobody in their right mind would use it.

Yep, that's the one. Jumper settings are different too, 740 IIRC.

PMSL, you gotta love a wsb2 meet! For what it's worth I can't do 21st May (that's the gumball/frogball/dragonball/whatever it's called) and probably not the 28th either.

Optional, might have been standard on the VVTi RZ I think. Here's the pic of them that Ian C described as the pic of the heater matrix change procedure...

Sell it and buy a TT. It's going to work out much cheaper and easier.

It's from the FAQ section of this very site!

It should be fine where it is, although that's not he normal place, that's the manifold pressure reference for the BOV - should be the same. First of all, what was measured at the wheels on the dyno. What fudge factor was used to convert that to crank figures? Did they not hook up a boost reference and give you a graph showing that too? You'd expect that from a dyno run. Also, which gear was used for the run? It was converted to 6sp form wasn't it, so is 5th still 1:1 with the diff etc on there? If not how did they work it out, did they do a coast down? Always been very dubious of those.

There's no need unless you want to change fuel pressure from stock. The only reason for doing that is to increase it to provide some more fuel without having to change the injectors. You can for example make 440cc injectors flow as much fuel as 550s. You can't do that without some form of fuel computer to trim the fueling back, just as you would need if you put bigger injectors in. That's exactly the setup I had - I've now got some bigger injectors to go with my single and I'll be putting my fuel pressure back to stock again.

There's only one place I know of that does it at all, and that's competition car insurance aka Egger Lawson.

Good choice of garage to look at there though...

Of course this place isn't like the "other" UK forum, and doesn't ban people for daring to mention it... Or for daring to actually post pretty much anything at all for that matter.

I'm going to be fitting my Emanage ultimate soon to replace my Emanage blue. I'm just trying to decide whether to hook it up to the knock sensors or intake/water temp. What have other people done? Is the knock monitoring any good if you hook it up to the knock sensors? I already have intake temp hooked up to my E01 for monitoring that, and I don't suppose I'll need to use an intake temp map for anything. I suppose I might use a water temp map possibly.

For anyone that has a copy of the tech manuals that CJ sorted out, I've just spotted an error on the ECU terminals info on page EG612 in the big engine manual. Terminals A52-57 are ignition for #1 to #6, but they are the wrong way round. So 52 is labelled as IGN1, but it is in fact IGN6. Here's what they should be: Terminal Symbol A-52 IGN6 A-53 IGN5 A-54 IGN4 A-55 IGN3 A-56 IGN2 A-57 IGN1 The copy of this page that's on mkiv.com has been corrected this way too. I suggest you all get the pen out and change it - you never know when you might rely on it!

Here you go, I had to do the same thing a while back. Won't make any difference it being an auto or not. The boost gauge is actually harder than you think because it sits at atmospheric pressure with the ignition on.

You must have indicators and side repeaters, apart from that I don't think it matters where they are.

Exactly the same here.

Occasionally I get this too, not very often though.