SimonB

Well, I'm very pleased to say I've got some more progress! Jake lent me one of his injectors, so today I swapped out the stock ones and put my new ones in again without the duff one! And......it runs! Absolutely fine now, so that's a relief. Big thanks to Jake for that one mate! I've also been having trouble with my intercooler piping blowing off. The trouble was the aluminium pipework didn't have flares to hold the silicon couplers on (because I had to cut it all to fit), so the only thing holding the silicon on was the pressure of the clamps. The ally was a bit thin, so if you tighten the clamps too much it starts bending! I'd pretty much managed to get it sorted but wasn't happy it was reliable enough so today I replaced most of the ally pipe sections with stainless steel clamped tight. That isn't coming off again! So, all ready for some mapping action tomorrow...

Totally agree Ian. It pisses me off when people post up stuff saying "we've tried x y and z and done all sorts of experiments etc etc" and then totally fail to produce any evidence, usually for some lame reason about not revealing it to their competitors. When I make a decision about what to do with my car I want data to make that decision myself, not to simply do whatever a tuner tells me based on their "experience" and usually without sufficient scientitic or engineering data or reasoning behind it.

Happy Birthday!

It's pretty easy, there's a bit of fiddling to get it to work smoothly and the reverse lock out in the right place. I did it by simply jacking up one corner. Only took me an hour or so I think.

You don't need a warning triangle in France. If you don't have EU style number plates with GB on then in theory you need a GB sticker.

Sounds like utter BS to me, all it's saying is that they're using electrolysis to seperate oxygen and hydrogen from water (school chemistry lesson style) combining them again and burning the result. Hardly earth shattering, and not a source of energy, because you have to supply electricity to perform the electrolysis, and you will obtain less energy than you put in.

Blatent mis-selling and bang out of order.

It'll be the diff one causing the main warning light to come on, the trac warning doesn't light the main one up so you can just remove the bulb for that one.

No way will it make 5mpg difference on a Supra. In fact I've never been able to spot any difference at all in fuel consumption or power. I mean some on, you're talking about a 320bhp car here, not a Micra!

You should use gaskets between exhaust sections, they obviously seal the gap, but more than that they will stop the whole exhaust resonating. Don't bother with that paste, it's messy. Ideally you want the restrictor ring as far back as possible - you don't want hot exhaust gas being restricted close to the turbo or you'll get more back pressure on the turbo which will cause higher EGTs and more lag than otherwise. I don't think it's really going to matter if you use gaskets with the ring, you certainly don't need two, one would probably be a good idea.

Yes, got that wired in to the injector inputs.

Yeah, Jake has very kindly offered to lend me one, I'm still trying to find someone to supply a new one! I'm not going to Japfest - I'm on the French trip instead. I'll be at JAE, and the local meet that wsb2 is organising in his usual highly efficient way...

Cool, that's what I've got now. You should be able to use the automap feature then, where it adjusts the fueling automatically to hit your target AFR. That's something I want to play with when I get my bloody injectors sorted!

*ahem* yes, that's what you get for trying to remember the firing order without looking it up! I meant:- 1->1 2->5 3->3 4->6 5->2 6->4 Timing advance and retard at idle both seem to work, you can hear the engine note change and see the adjustment affect the logged timing. Dunno why using negative injector adjustment doesn't work though, most odd. I was hoping to leave the airflow adjustment well alone and just use the injector one.

Wow, really nice job on the ducting there mate. I'd be very interested in how your mapping goes. Are you going to leave the airflow map at zero and use the injector map to scale fuel back? My EMU is not playing ball when I try and do that at the moment for some reason. Have you got a wideband wired in to the EMU?

Just been out to check this, and yes it does. I compared a log using the airflow adjustment and one using the injector adjustment. They both claim to have roughly the same duty cycles and durations, but one runs as smooth as a smooth thing and the other is total poo! I also tried advancing and retarding the timing, and this seems to work fine, despite the IGN 3,4 and 5 input errors in the log!

Yes, you cut the wires - it has outputs as well as inputs. That's the main advantage of the Ultimate. I should add that the data log shows the correct injector duty cycle adjustment when using the negative injector adjustment (e.g. 1.5% input and 1.2% output for example). It just doesn't seem to control the injectors properly. EDIT: Oh yeah, and I have the injector adapter wired in to the inputs too, and the latest firmware (1.14).

I've got some strange issues with my Emanage Ultimate that I'm hoping someone can shed some light on. First issue is that I keep getting IGN 3,4 and 5 input errors in the log when connecting the software up. The car runs perfectly fine, so there can't be a problem with the connections. I thought initially I had connected them up in the wrong order, but I've double checked and they are wired in firing order, i.e. 1->1 2->5 3->3 4->6 5->2 6->1 The second problem is that it all runs fine when using the airflow adjustment to reduce the fueling (I'm currently running higher than normal fuel pressure) and injector adjustment to increase it like you did on the Emanage blue. However, if I try and zero the airflow map and use negative numbers in the injector map it idles very lean and really struggles to run. It does this even if you just have -1 in there. I have the jumpers set to add and trim fuel (the default position). Anyone got any ideas?

Right, I've updated the first page with the latest stuff people have posted. Could do with sizes and offsets for the KEI Racing D1s and BBS LMs, and offsets for some of the others...

The downpipe and wastegate pipe came from Arnout, and I bought a Random Technology 3 inch 1st decat pipe (the flange on Arnout's downpipe meets a UK spec pipe). The wastegate is at an angle that takes it towards the block so there's plenty of room between at and the steering. It's very close to the oil return fitting though, in fact I had to connect up the oil return hose first because I couldn't do it up with the wastegate in place. I tried to take a photo but you can't really see it!

It's the check valve for the EVAP system (the charcoal cannister). I think it's basic job is to stop boost pressure from presurising the cannister when you're under boost, but I must admit I don't really understand how the purge on the cannister works looking at the plumbing diagram! Basically you have four lines going into the cannister. The bottom one lets fresh air in when the cannister is purged. One goes to the fuel tank, one goes to the intake and the other gets Td off to that check valve and to a VSV that controlls the purging of the cannister.

Not really mate. I'm having trouble getting hold of a replacement injector so I've still got the stock ones in atm (running at 52psi so they act like 550cc ones). I don't want to spend ages mapping it and then have to do it again on the 650s so I've just set it up safely rich for now. I had a problem with the intercooler hose blowing off where it goes into the FMIC, I was using an old connector that wasn't quite the right size but I've got a new one now so that's sorted so I can stop driving round like a wuss. Nothing leaks and everything basically works. Still got the boost controller turned off for now though. I'm going to knock up my DIY air box this weekend I think, maybe sort the ducting round the FMIC out a bit and fit gaskets between the last couple of exhaust sections (the old ones fell to bits when I took my restrictor out). Hopefully I can get a new injector ordered ASAP and finish the thing! When are you going to be using yours Jake? If I can get a definite delivery time for a new one any chance I could borrow one in the meantime? I was hoping to fit 'em next weekend in time to get it set up for the France trip.

The standard setup draws air from two places, the under headlight duct and also the fan shroud one. This gets its air from in front of the rad. A FMIC panel will not cut this supply off, as it takes the place of the standard rad duct. But a rad panel will do, unless you cut a slot in it! If you have a standard SMIC you're going to have to rely on the rad duct feed. There's no point in cutting a hole in the bottom unless you also get some ducting to duct air in there from somewhere on the front. You can get flexible ducting from Demon Tweeks in various sizes.

RZ was manual only, so there is no facelift RZ auto. The RZ had Recaros, big wheels & brakes, improved ABS, billsteins (REAS on VVTis). Some of this was optional on the RZ-S, which was auto or manual.

Should be fine then, the pressure plate was great, it felt pretty much like stock. Horsepowerfreaks in the US stock them, but they're a bit of a pain because they don't take international credit cards so you have to do a bank transfer. IIRC I got Dusty (MVP) to source me mine because I was ordering some other stuff at the same time. He charged a bit more than HPF but at least you can use PayPal to pay.