SimonB

Actually scrub that, Turbo Dynamics round the corner have then in stock so I'm picking one up from them.

I need a good quality T4 turbo gasket pronto! When I put the turbo back after by recent engine build I used a cheapo one off Ebay thinking it would do the trick but frankly it's pants. Result is a blowing exhaust which it failed MOT on today. So I need a decent T4 metal gasket ASAP. Has anyone got one, or any of the traders have them in stock? Cheers!

I think that even the stock sized Ferreas use a different seat angle and therefore need the seats recutting.

Here you go...

You don't loosen anything. You use a breaker bar or something like that on the nut on the center of the idle pulley - turning it will lever the tensioner back against it's spring allowing you to take the belt off and replace it.

Pmd...

-10 on the cooler, it's a 19 row x 235mm I think. I think I'm going to remount it slightly so it's more in the airflow, and stick a fan on as an experiment and see what happens. If it works out OK I'll probably switch it for a slightly bigger one (I was probably going to do that anyway) and add a thermostatic controller etc.

Not keen on putting it back, apart from the fact it would be a real pain to do with the engine in I no longer have a coolant pipe going round that side of the block so I'd have to put that back too. I need to make sure the sensor is actually reading correctly, but it was reading up to 110C just from being sat in slow moving traffic for a while - the sensor is where the rear turbo oil feed normally is. I think you may be able to fit a laminova cooler in place of the top rad hose. I'm going to measure up and see in a bit. The cooler could be ducted better too - I'm changing the front bumper so I'm not going to do that just yet. Still won't help when you're not moving though. Hmmm...

I have now removed the little stock oil cooler the filter normally attaches to when I rebuilt my engine - I figured the external oil cooler I already had would do the job fine on its own. However, what I didn't think of is when trundling through traffic there is of course no airflow through the oil cooler, resulting in high oil temps. So I figure there are two solutions to this, either fit a larger air/oil cooler with some sort of thermostatic electric fan to pull air through, or bin it and use a laminova cooler, which is basically a oil/water heat exchanger. You hook it into the coolant circuit and it uses that to cool the oil. Anyone have any experience with them? Do you plumb them into the rad top hose or bottom hose? I guess the top hose would mean the coolant going through would be hotter and it wouldn't cool the oil as effectively, but the bottom hose would mean heating the coolant up before passing it through the block to cool the engine. Does it actually matter?

Step 1: See who's seriously interested. 1. SteveR 2. SimonB 3. 4. 5.

Ah but in that case why is a cheesecake a cake?

I'm a southerner and I call cupcakes buns too! Cupcake is an American name I reckon. Mind you my parents are from Yorkshire - we are the only people I know down here that have cheese with mince pies...

Here's a couple of pics of the heater hoses. Bit hard to take photos of but you get the idea!

It is at an angle. I've found a pic, attached. I can't take a pic of that bit of the engine now installed in my car because the intake mani is in the way but there's loads of room there, you'd have no problem with a sandwich plate and filter.

I don't see why not. There's probably more room because the stock cooler is quite thick. But it does point the filter at a slight angle where it would be straight without. I'll have a look later and see how much space there is.

I'll take some, didn't get round to it today. I can't actually remember, it was just a motorist centre type place. You can get them on ebay too I think. They are like these: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Universal-LED-Side-Repeaters-Self-Adhesive-Back-Ultra_W0QQitemZ230334302842QQcmdZViewItem I basically wire them in, stick them on the bumper and then take them off after MOT!

Cheers! It was Tech Line black satin exhaust paint, this stuff: http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/products/ProductDetail.asp?cls=MSPORT&pcode=NIM1004 Tech Line do a ceramic coating too but that needs baking in an oven. I've sorted a few things out this weekend. The heater hoses at the back of the block were leaking - I think the rubber had perished a bit and the clamps Toyota use are a bit rubbish too. I replaced the lot with some 16mm flexible silicon hose (15.8mm ID) - this stuff has a wire spiral so it can be bent without collapsing. So now there are just two lengths of this hose, one going from the water pipe attached to the block directly to the heater matrix pipe on the rear bulkhead and the other from the rear of the head to the other matrix pipe. Gets rid of those naff metal joiner pipes at the back, looks much neater and hopefully won't leak! I also tidied a few other bits up, refitted my stick-on indicator repeaters that are needed for MOT and the air duct to my air box.

I'm pretty sure ARP do make them, don't think I've ever seen any advertised on any of the traders sites though. I wouldn't be at all suprised if they were cheaper than Toyota ones too, the head studs and main studs were back when the dollar was at a good rate at least.

I think it goes in as a sine wave and the odo buffers it and turns it into a square wave. Could be wrong though!

Interestingly (or not!) the curvature of the Earth accounts for approx 35mm over 285m.

Square wave, 4 pulses per mph/kph IIRC.

Your maths is wrong I think. Acceleration due to gravity is approx 9.8m/s/s. It's acceleration not velocity. So from a standstill the distance travelled in time t = (9.8 x t squared)/2. So for 0.28s that would be 0.38m. That's not accounting for air resistance of course.

This is not possible, once out of the barrel there is no more force being exerted on the bullet (well, very briefly immediately after it leaves the barrel and the expanding gas is still pushing it but not after). Therefore it can't accelerate.

That's basically correct. The only force making both bullets head for the ground is gravity, and it acts on both the same. Being mega picky it may not be quite correct though, because if the bullet travels far enough the curvature of the earth will effectively make the ground fall away underneath it, so it will take very slightly longer to hit the ground.

Yes, that's it. It's all over the internet, he basically advocates using first 50% throttle, letting it coast down, then 75%, then 100% (and max rpm too!). To be honest I don't think any of these methods actually makes much difference. You can kind of see the logic behind most of them, even the contradictory ones!