SimonB

You can do proper track days at the 'ring as well as the public days. The public days are usually very busy and the track quite often gets closed for ages while they scrape another biker off the armco. I suspect the proper track days you could use a non-road legal car and they'd be loads better than public days and probably not much more expensive by the time you've done a load of laps. You really don't want to crash on a public day - they charge you for lost income if they have to close the track and for repairs to the armco, and it ain't cheap.

Really? Bit of a change of direction there then! Lol! Killing in the name of.... 007.

It surely must be Goldfinger, with Diamonds Are Forever a close second.

I think what he was saying is that he couldn't set the old one to fully closed while building boost because it didn't open fast enough when at his target boost and therefore he overshot the boost he was aiming for. The new one allowed this as it opened faster. That's how I read it.

Yep, me like. About a million times better than the last crap Madonna effort that's for sure.

There is no fixed limit on the road - the law simply says it must not be "unsociably loud" or something like that so basically up to the police. I've never heard of anyone being sucessfully prosecuted for it though, although some people have paid a £30 fine I believe. Normally they would just issue a vehicle defect thingy I think so you'd just go to an MOT place and get them to say it was ok. You will definitely be less than 105db with the bung in (assuming it's measured the normal way at 3/4 revs at 1m or whatever) and I would think without it too.

That's the stuff that ESP sell, that's where mine came from. ESP. It's evil stuff to handle though, very sharp!

I bought a couple of sizes that aren't in kits from the Tap & Die company. They've got just about everything.

Set of 4 in stock sizes should be around £400. I use 245 40 18s and 275 35 18s and a set costs about £600. They're pretty good value. Micheldever are usually the cheapest if you're anywhere near - my last couple of sets I got from Christchurch Tyres as they're only £10 or so more expensive and just round the corner from me.

Think I'd have to agree based on the films they were given. I think Dalton could have been quite good but unfortunately he turned up when they were trying to make it more "real" so he ended up with two dreadful scripts to do. I also liked LALD, but Moonraker I hate with a passion. I normally kind of like to pretend it never happened, so that drags Moore right down for me. DAF was a bit ropey too, but the other Connery films make up for it.

I've just come back from watching it. I'm a huge bond fan, and I loved it. It's much more nasty and harder than before. Bit of a dull bit towards the end, and the blatent Ford product placement bit that looked like a commercial was annoying, but still great. It's not at all bond-like, more like a very good normal thriller.

Well mine lasted over 15,000 miles including a track day...

Bugger me, just had some crazy weather here! It sounded very loud so I looked out the window and it was absoltely pelting down with hailstones the size of peas! Check out the photos of my Supra and front step, that's after no more than 2 minutes! It's now completely stopped again. Bizarre.

I was planning on doing that, using my stock wheels with trackday tyres on. Gets expensive though!

You'll get that on pretty much any road tyre. F1s are no worse than any other in that regard. You'd avoid it with something like the 888s, but they are lethal in the wet.

Got to be Battle of the Planets. Quality that.

Bah humbug! Bloomin' hate Christmas, and it's only the middle of November...

Unfortunately there isn't a standard thread for sensors. Some use BSP, some NPT. Some of the Jap ones use another different taper thread. My pressure gauge is 1/8BSP and the temp is 1/8NPT. You can screw a 1/8NPT into a 1/8BSP hole, but not the other way round. It's a bit of a nightmare. Those are metric thread sizes you've posted there, which is a bit odd. You won't need a different filter.

Nope. There's no requirement to have a cat on any car, people just call the later emissions tests "the cat test" because normally cars need cats to pass it. If you pass without them you don't need a cat.

This has got to be one of the most common myths. The wastegate doesn't make a noise. All it does is open when at full boost to vent excess exhaust gas - that makes a noise if you have an external gate with a screamer pipe, but it's a roaring noise only at full boost. The other noises are either the BOV, or compressor surge or stalling. The reason big singles have this is because they are more likely to suffer from this.

Your best bet by far here is to not try and wire in your HU directly but use an Autoleads lead from Halfords to plug the ISO connector on your HU directly into the existing plug. There should be plenty of threads in the audio section about it. The water bottle is the radiator expansion tank, nothing to do with the air con. I believe you are supposed to be able to see bubbles in the spy glass to start with and then they are supposed to disappear. If they don't you're low on gas.

Just remove the cannister = job done.

Sorry, but that's wrong. The only time the ECU adjusts fueling over it's built in map is when it's in closed loop below 4000rpm (ish). It then tries to keep it at stoich (14.7AFR). Otherwise it has no way of adjusting because it only has a narrowband O2 sensor which is useless for anything other than telling the ECU that it's either leaner or richer than 14.7. However, the stock map may well extend beyond the "normal" airflow that you would see unmodified. In fact, I don't think the NA even has a narrowband sensor to do that closed loop adjustment anyway. At least there's no mention of one in the tech manual. The only real adjustment the ECU makes over it's built in map is timing, which will get retarded if it detects knock (det). However, the stock map is pretty good, so you're not going to improve it much unless you have made some big mods in which case a full remap would give you some benefits, but at big cost as has been said. And, as has also been said, the stock ECU can't be remapped.

You could have got out and banged on the windscreen and I probably wouldn't have noticed on my way in to work in the morning!

I've sent some of the details to Mike by PM but I'll post it up here too. Arnout's pipework ends in a flange that meets up with a standard UK spec 1st cat/decat. So you need a 3 inch 1st decat pipe, I got mine from Horsepowerfreaks in the USA, here's the link: Random Technology test pipe It was a beautifully made thing, also had a flexi joint as I said. There's a fitting kit too which has the gaskets and nuts & bolts in. When I bought my pipework off Arnout the WG flange was for an HKS 50mm wastegate with the rectangular flange. This is the older style (the new ones have a square flange) and I don't think HKS make them any more. I managed to get hold of one so mine fitted straight on, but depending on your wastegate you might have to use an adaptor or get a new flange welded on. I think HKS make a rectangular to square adaptor plate. The Ebay wastegates use the rectangular flange too I think so you'd be ok with one of those, but I don't trust the quality of them. Arnout might have changed his pipes by now to the square flange now too I guess.