SimonB

To be honest, I don't know. I'll try and have a look on the EPC, see if the part nos are the same.

I'm 32. I'm with Jake on the random noise though... As it happens Gerry I love Eurovision! The music's all total bollocks of course, but get a few mates round and drink heavily and it's hillarious. We buy beer from as many of the countries taking part as we can and then try and drink the appropriate one.

Lol! I was about to post exactly that! Bah, it's all noise that stuff the young 'uns listen to...

That's an extremely good price (although it's an extra £10 delivery), I've never seen them that cheap. I may take a reasonable offer, depends how much!

Quick bump before they go on Ebay...

Quick bump before it goes on Ebay...

Quick bump before I put this on Ebay...

Oh yes, definitely. You start really conservative and then advance it until you get maximum torque or start to hear det. Not saying it was or wasn't the mappers fault - don't like commenting when I don't have all the info. Just that there's a load of people throwing their hands up at the thought of det at high boost on standard fuel when that's not necessarily a problem. I wouldn't want to run a standard engine at that high boost anyway whether it dets or not!

A writeup of this is in Evo magazine this month. Apparently the scrutineers were a bit confused when they asked about the throttle return spring and were told it doesn't have one as the throttle is electronic! They failed it because it didn't have on-off labelled on the ignition so the time it set was unofficial. Also, it was driven by a guy that drove a Supra in the JGTC for 3 years!

Not going to comment on the specifics of this case, but you can't simply say X amount of boost will cause det. It completely depends on the ignition advance you have. You can run high boost with more retarded timing or lower boost with more advanced timing. Det will occur when you have the timing too far advanced for the boost you are running. So you can't just say that 1.75 bar on 97 fuel will cause det - it may be completely fine if the ignition timing is ok.

Yes. Just under 2 litres.

For auto to manual info, see here: http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/auto_to_6spd_swap/index.html Not for a VVTi, and LHD, but similar sort of job I guess.

Well obviously that's the case, but there's no need to be deliberately obtuse and unhelpful about it is there? The questioner was obviously asking what role the sunlight sensor has as part of the function of the system as a whole.

Basically it makes the climate control work to a lower temperature to compensate for the fact that the sun through the glass is heating everything (including you) up and causing it to radiate more heat.

Go back and get them to balance the rears, that'll be what's causing it I suspect. When one of my rears was out of balance it caused a steering vibration like I said.

Did they balance the rears as well as the fronts? Last time I had a balance problem it was being caused by the rears, and not all places think to check them. Mine was caused by a defective tyre that they couldn't balance out - it got sent back to the manufacturer.

Yeah, I got mine from MVP (harness bar that is). As for the harnesses, you need to make sure you get ones where the shoulder straps are designed to go round a roll bar rather than bolt in. For the lap belts the easiest thing is to go for bolt in - if you get snap-in ones you have to put eye bolts in to clip them to which is a pain, but does make them easier to remove if you want to. I bought top-end harnesses because I wanted decent aircraft style quick-release buckles, lightweight shoulder adjusters and the ability to use 6 point harnesses. Mine are Sparco and came from a company called rallynuts that have a huge range.

First I'd never use 3 point harnesses. As you move forward in an impact the shoulder straps would want to pull together - not nice. Second, just buy a harness bar. They look good, secure the shoulder straps at the correct angle with as short a strap as possible which minimises the amount the belts will stretch in an impact and aren't that expensive. No brainer IMO.

Yes it is. There's some more pics in my garage.

Correct. Here's my calendar entries from a couple of years back.

Toyota did it because they already had a race-developed 3S from the Celica rally car so it was easier to use that than develop one again based on the 2JZ.

The seat will easily be crushed in an impact if they are installed like that. The following figures are from an article in Track & Race cars from a test by Schroth (who make harnesses). They did a standard FIA crash test, which is a 31mph impact with a stopping distance of 16inches. This produces a decelleration of 30G. The load on the lap belts was 3,100lbs each side. The load on the shoulder straps was 1,550lbs each. That caused the adjusters to move up the chest by 8inches due to the belts stretching. 1550 lbs would easily crush the shoulder strap holes in a seat - they are not designed to stand up to any force, they're only for locating the belts. Also bear in mind that test was using a full 6 point harness, and the anti-sub straps took 1320lbs of force each. If you only have 4 point harnesses (which I would never use) that force will be transferred to the shoulder straps too. And that was only a 30mph impact (albeit with a short stopping distance).

It'll be a replica if it's one of Jurgens. Does it have the undertray? I think he does them with or without.

I have a stock ECU for a 6 speed non-VVTI which came out of my car when I switched to a Motec standalone. Could be useful for anyone planning a auto->manual conversion. £75.

This is still available if anyone needs one.