SimonB

Makes no difference, you are still liable for import duty & vat.

Oh yes... Still got a few things on the to do list. Getting my aircon fixed is getting nearer the top now it's getting hot again! Also got to tidy up my intercooler pipework (it sits too low with the new turbo atm), change my front bumper now its cracked and sort out my undertray/ducting. Then I'll be off the Germany to see how fast it'll go...

Will do Charlie. Don't worry, I hadn't forgotten you wanted a ride...

Yeah, I know what you mean. It could be down to the fact that I have fairly mild cams (256in, 264ex) and the 67 was on my new engine, which has forged pistons & rods. I wouldn't have expected that to make much difference though.

I've finally got round to putting the dyno results into a useful form. The GT35R one and the T67DBB one had a different scale, and my scanner is no more, so I read the figures off and put them in Excel. So this graph isn't perfectly accurate, but close enough. It shows the GT35R and PT67DBB power and torque. Bear in mind though that the engine was different (the PR67DBB is on my new engine) and the 67 is running more boost (1.6 vs 1.5 BAR). The 67 also had a different fuel system, but that shouldn't make any difference as the GT35R fueling was fine at the time for that turbo.

Here you go, thought it was probably a good idea to do one so I know how the hell I wired it up if I ever need to fix it! Basically there are two 30A auto relays that are wired direct to the +ve battery terminal (via a car stereo distribution block inside my box) - the output from these goes to the fans. The fan negatives are wired direct to the battery -ve. The input on the X-eng thermostat switch goes to a +12v ignition switched source - I used one of the VSV wires I no longer need. The two outputs (low and high) go to the relay coils, with the other side of those grounded. That gives you your basic operation. I have a fan override switch with a LED backlight, and a couple of LEDs that show when the two fans are running. That's the bottom of the diagram. I needed to use a DPDT relay otherwise whenever one of the fans is on the light on the switch would light up. This is just a small current relay I had from Maplins. There are 5 wires that go from the control box to the dash (+12V permanent, two fan activity lines and two relay control lines). The ground I just connected up to a ground point behind the dash. You could get a permenant 12v from behind the dash somewhere too and save yourself a wire if you could be arsed. Oh, I didn't show the fuse, which is between the battery +12V connection and the distribution block that goes to the relays.

He had a Stillen front on it. He didn't do it as a replica of the Skunk car exactly, he just liked the look of the graphics so got them duplicated IIRC.

I didn't. It is a bit tight and fiddly though.

ECU: Motec M600 Year : 1997 Man/Auto : Manual Mods : 850cc injectors, built engine, PT67DBB turbo Power/Torque: 625BHP, 496lbft Link to dynomap: Haven't scanned it yet! Mapped By: Owen Developments (Mark Harrison)

Yep, Owens. It's reputation for being unreliable comes from the many posts on places like Supraforums from people who have had failures (or at least say they have). It may well not deserve that reputation, I don't know, but it does have that reputation. As for wasted spark, I agree you can sort it out, but then you have another thing to fit, go wrong, put extra strain on things. It's a disadvantage, just as Motec's pricing is. You'll always get a kind of religious war with ECUs it seems between the various camps. They all have advantages and disadvantages. For me, the fact I didn't need a DLI, greater percieved reliability and build quality, greater flexibilty with things like injectors and the wider availability of tuners that would map Motecs were the reason I went that way. I also preferred the software. For others the extra cost and fact you can't control the autobox from a Motec may swing things the other way.

These are now on ebay. Ebay link

Or just use the software - it shows the individual wheel speeds.

That's exactly what I have. They used one half of a Fields harness I had. I swapped recently from high impedance PE injectors in the stock rail to a top feed rail with low impedance injectors. Not problem with the Motec, just change one value and it runs fine, no need for resistor packs etc. It's great for that sort of thing. The reason mappers tend to stick with mapping one type is I think down to several things. First sometimes they are dealers for that make and therefore want to encourage sales of it. Also, the software and features can be quite different - this won't affect basic fuel and ignition mapping, but things like how you setup the crank and cam position sensors, how you do lamda control and overrun fuel cut etc. If you're not familiar with it you could waste a lot of time trying to figure out what the different parameters do. Also you would have a base map with the basic parameters set up if it's an ECU you have mapped before - this would save a lot of time and you would know it was going to basically work. As for the AEM, it has a pretty bad rep for being unreliable. It's also wasted spark only which is a change to the way the Supras ignition system normally works.

Happy to pick mine up and pay at JAE if they'll be ready Colin.

It's not cheap though, and takes up room in the dash somewhere. I made my own - small box from Maplin, 2 auto relays, a power distribution thingy for amps, thermostatic switch from X-eng (http://www.x-eng.co.uk/X-Therm.asp), couple of blue leds and a switch in the dash. Total cost about £50.

Probably not. It's directly connected whereas the electric ones have to turn the alternator to produce electricity (which loses some power) and then turn the motors to produce movement again (which loses some more).

Could have sworn I added myself to this ages ago, maybe I used the calendar thingy. Anyway, I'll be there Sat and Sun if you want to add me to the list Tom.

I guess the question is how much are they going to charge you for the insurance to offset the free track day cover? Well worth checking out though, track day cover is pretty expensive.

You want them on a thermostat. The viscous fan is not on all the time, that's the point, it only locks up when it needs to. You don't want the fans on when you have enough air flowing through the rad anyway or they'll get in the way of that air, and it's a waste of power having them on when the temps are low.

I disagree. Why would you need to see the indicators from side on? If you were alongside you should not be changing lanes, and any other time you're going to be behind or heading towards and able to see the rear or fronts.

You can always do what I do and get some stick on LED ones for the MOT, then take them straight off again afterwards.

You're not exactly missing much, Die Hard 2 is one of the worst films I've ever seen. The whole thing is so ridiculous it's just stupid. Ooo, let's light some fires and a whole load of planes will magically stack up with perfect seperation to land

The problem with mapping on road is that you can't set the ignition timing to produce max torque. All you can do is advance it until it dets and then back off a bit. It may be that you advance it past the point of peak torque, there's no way of knowing.

Stop breeding, that's the answer. What's the point of children anyway? They cost a fortune, make loads of noise, cause you hassle and you can't have a conversation with them.

The tools they sell at Halfords are actually really good. Bit pricey sometimes, but the ratchet spanners they do are brilliant. They have good breaker bars too, and sockets.