SimonB

Cheers guys. And happy birthday to my fellow August 16th ers!

You will need a new rad cap as the Koyo is a different fitment. There are basically two types of rad cap, the smaller normal Supra one and a bigger one as used on Nissans. Here's a pic nicked from an ebay listing that shows the difference: Type A is the normal Supra one, type B the one you need for the Koyo.

It's actually quite hard to do that as there's not much room in the surge pot in the bottom of the tank.

The screen doesn't come with the pumps - it's part of the PHR fuel kits (and some others) or you can buy it separately. The triple hangers are pretty expensive, I wouldn't bother. When I fitted mine I chopped the bottom off the hanger and made a bracket out of aluminium with two holes for the rubber isolators that the pumps sit on - then I bolted that to the hanger. Otherwise the second pump isn't held at the bottom by anything, so could slip. I'd be more worried about the fact that there's 2 pumps going to the single stock power and ground lines in the connector which aren't really up to it. What most people do is change the ground connector to a second power line and put a separate ground connector in (i.e. ground the pumps to the hanger and a ground post on the top of the cover).

Definitely dead, there's chunks that have broken off! In the same place too, looks like a manufacturing defect or design flaw or something. That flywheel looks nasty too, look at the welds! Doesn't look like the quality I'd expect from RPS.

You probably wouldn't get those figures in cars with the same gearing. Power is derived from torque. As b'have posted up, power is torque x speed (in this case rpm). If you had 400ft/lbs of torque across the board at all rpms then power would rise with revs. The values you see stated are the maximums, wherever that is (normally you see something like Xft/lbs at Yrpm). For you to get those figures B would have to have low down torque that drops off at higher revs, and C would have to have not much torque low down and that 300ft/lbs at higher revs. Which is best depends on when the torque peak is, and what the torque curve looks like.

Torque is the thing that accelerates your car, it's the force that pushes it forwards effectively. The thing that's important is the torque at the WHEELS though. This is why people banging on about how much torque their diesel has and therefore how nippy it is are not really right. If the engine revs much lower then you have to use a higher gear ratio to get the same top speed - therefore less torque reaches the wheels. An F1 car revs very high, so you can use lower gear ratios and more of the relatively low torque reaches the wheels - nothing to do with weight. E.g. say you have 2 engines, 1 revs to 10000rpm and produces 200ft/lbs torque. The other revs to 5000rpm and produces 350ft/lbs. On the face of it it looks like the 2nd one is the one to have. But you want them to go the same speed, so if no.1 has a 1:1 gear ratio say. No.2 will have to have a 2:1 ratio to go the same speed. So no.1 has 200ft/lbs of torque to the wheels whereas no.2 only has 175ft/lbs.

I'll be there. You all have to be nice to me though as it's the day after my birthday... Actually quite tempted to stay the night and have a few beers.

There's a few different variations, the two small fans is a facelift thing I think.

Rad from a 97 6speed manual, in good condition (see photo). I also have the stock viscous fan, and the rad ducting. The rad should fit any manual car, the ducting is from a facelift (the electric fans are different on earlier cars). Pretty difficult to post, so pickup preferred.

Anyone got any front wheel arch liners going spare, or are breaking a Supra with them intact? The plastic ones at the front of the wheel arch. Need drivers and passenger side, both of mine are cracked.

Yeah, you can't look just at the exhaust A/R and compare different turbos that way. A bigger A/R exhaust housing will spool slower and be less restrictive for the same turbo only. Different turbos have different turbine designs etc, so a .68A/R on one turbo may well make loads more power and spool slower than a 1.05 or something on another. Or vice versa.

Who says I'm not an expert, cheeky bugger...

You'll find all the answers to those questions by searching on here or looking in the tech resources, but since I'm feeling in a helpful mood for some reason I'll tell you... The engine is the 2JZ-GTE for the TT or GE for the NA. Turbos are CT20A on the Jspec and CT12B on the UK/USA/Euro spec. Standard fuel pressure is 36psi static (i.e. with the hose pulled off the pressure reg and the engine not running but the fuel pump activated by a bridge in the diagnostics port). Standard boost pressure is around 0.75BAR. First things people do are the mods known as BPU (basic performance upgrade) - exhaust, remove cats, remove fuel cut via electronic gizmo, restrictor in the exhaust for Jspec to avoid overboosting or a bleed valve for UKs to increase boost, change plugs, change fuel pump on Jspecs. Oil filter is on the intake side of the engine lowish down - look for the dipstick and look down and you'll see it. ECU is in the passenger footwell under a plastic cover under the carpet. BHP is just over 300 for the Jspec, 320 for the UK. 0-60 is 4.9 for the manual, 5.1 for the auto (official figures).

Sorry mate, can't really help as I don't really know how those settings work. Mine could be right or wrong, dunno! I think there's a ref/sync capture thing in the software that you're supposed to use while cranking the engine before you start it for the 1st time to figure out the right settings, but that's about all I know about it!

Well, mine is completely different to that! Here's mine:

Maybe I'm missing something, but why would you buy one as a daily driver rather than use a Supra? They're no cheaper to run and no more practical.

It should record them all, but it depends on the channel putting the right thing into the programme listing which they often cock up.

Turbo dynamics are just round the corner from me, and I can tell you those three most definitely DON'T work there, lol! Actually, better pop round tomorrow just to make sure... p.s. I see that was a "stealth" shot there Branners, didn't want to be blatantly taking pics of their arses so went for a distance shot...

Cool. Now all we need is someone with a single to fit one and see how loud it is.

I've never heard anyone who has actually tried the new F1s slag them off. People moan that the tread "doesn't look as pretty", but who cares? The only objective test I've seen in a mag said they were a clear improvement over the GSD3s, and I'd be amazed if they weren't, or Goodyear wouldn't release them. I'd certainly get some next time if they were available in 275 18 35 which they don't seem to be atm.

I've had my B&M for 3 years or more now I think, and I drive it every day. No problems here. The early ones had a design flaw which led to a few snapping but they fixed that years ago.

Nah, I've been there to watch the GP and it's in the middle of bloody nowhere, way further than 1.5 hours from Calais. I'd also like to know which track it is.

There is no fuel pump relay as such. There is the fuel pump ECU, which as you have found has FPC which the ECU pulses to send 9V or 12V down and DI which is the diagnostics line back to the ECU. It also has a 12V thicker gauge power cable which goes to the EFI main relay. So to turn the fuel pump on the ECU activates the main EFI relay (which in turn switches the EFI 2 relay) to supply power, then switches FPC to tell the fuel pump ECU to send that power to the fuel pump. My Motec is wired up so the fuel pump relay output on the Motec switches the EFI main relay on, and the fuel pump ECU is bypassed by connecting the main 12V feed to the fuel pump direct. At least it was that way, now I have 2 pumps I have a couple of relays that are switched from the 12V feed and a 40A cable direct to the battery. The wiring diagrams are on mkiv.com but it doesn't seem to be working atm.

It's not as good a price as you think, as you need to send them your old block, and it doesn't include shipping (both ways if you're sending them your block) which will not be cheap. Plus VAT and import duty, which you're going to get stung on for something like an engine - not much chance of claiming it's worth $100 or something with something like that!