SimonB

It's not a cold jab, it's flu. You'd know about it if you had 'flu, it's completely different to your normal cold that people pass off as flu. The twenty quid test is supposed to be the way of telling if you've got flu. The idea is somone drops 20 quid on the floor, if you've got a cold you'll get up and pick it up, if it's flu you'll leave it!

I've still got this if anyone wants it given the number of 6speed conversion threads recently on here...

Anyone else got any recommendations, for head work for example?

What do you mean closer? *waits to be banned*

Happy birthday!

Happy birthday Darryl!

The problem with these "sets" of bearings is that they say they are "standard size". There's no such thing as standard size, there are 5 different stock sizes. That's because the journals on the crank, block and rods are various different sizes - you select the correct bearing size to get the correct clearance based on the sizes of the crank, block and rod, there are numbers stamped on them. Sure you could get your crank re-ground and the block line bored to a fixed size, but that is expensive and it doesn't even say on the ads for these bearings what size they are! You really need to measure the crank and block and then order the correct bearings to suit.

The reason the thread is titled "Complaints regarding JDP" is because it was posted in response to complaints and threats of legal action from JDP about other posts on this forum. It has nothing to do with people here complaining about them. Have you actually read the thread? This is very clear from the 1st post.

I think they will mean that you won't be able to get insured again afterwards, as having an accident that writes the car off effectively ends your insurance so you have to take it out again. They can't refuse to pay if they have accepted you. The majority of members are over 30 btw IIRC from the polls that seem to pop up every now and then. And of course it's not Sky refusing cover, it's the underwriters - they don't know or care if you're a member of anything!

Don't think there's much chance of that unfortunately, he basically owns the FIA. He might come over as a bit of an idiot but he's a very shrewd guy and very good at politics. He won't leave until he wants to, and only when he's lined up his sucessor (probably Jean Todt) and made sure they're voted in. Nothing new with politics in F1 either, it's always been like that. It's still the ultimate in motorsports though, and this season has been fantastic. People always like to moan about F1 though, there's no overtaking, blah blah blah.

I think it's a weird variation on ODBII though that can't be read by the normal readers.

You can't be booted out, so don't worry about that. No empolyer is going to risk a tribunal for unfair dismissal for something like that. Letting slip you're looking around is a good way to get a pay rise, move into other areas if you want to, get more training etc. Assuming they want to keep you of course!

This roundabout in Barcelona got my attention when I drove round it - check out how many lanes there are! Barcelona

The Silverstone evening sessions are really good, you get 2.5 or so hours, but it's open pitlane so plenty of track time. Plus they're half the price of the full days. Some of those are "noisy" days. Goldtrack again.

There's three that look to be the same noise wise, the Greddy TI-R, the Blitz nur-spec RX and the Tanabe touring medalion. They are all 91-93db. However, on a 600BHP+ single I'm thinking the nur spec and Tanabe may be a restriction. Don't really know though.

It's listed on their website at 92db, but that's on a car with stock turbos.

It had a really nice sound it that video clip of yours. I need a pretty quiet exhaust as I don't want to be retricted to "noisy" track days only and these new quieter exhausts that are out now (Nur spec RX, Tanabe touring and this one) you can't really use a baffle with. Not that you'd want the restriction of one anyway! I just worry that some of them might be a bit restrictive. My wastegate is plumbed back into the exhaust, so that should be ok.

Think that's the old one. This is where I got confused because they seem to call the models different things in Japan and the US. PE is Power Enterprise. I think the -R bit must stand for reduced noise or something. The only pic I can find of it looks like an exhaust would do with a bung in - there appears to be restrictor in the tail pipe. Nic, that'd be great, thanks. Have you got the 80mm one or the 90mm? You've got a screamer pipe on your wastegate I take it?

Nobody has one then?

I've just been looking at garage doors. You want a sectional or roller door - you get rid of the wooden frame the current door is on and the new one comes with a frame that mounts to the rear of the front brickwork inside the garage. So the door opening is the same width as the garage opening. Should save you 3 or so inches each side - the width of your existing frame. You need enough clearance each side inside the garage though. The other advantage of them is that they are much more weatherproof and secure because the door sits in runners each side and extends right down to the floor. Plus you can automate them if you're a flash bastard. Not cheap though!

Yep, that's the one. It has a serial port on which plugs into your laptop to change the settings. The callibration adaptor is a plastic plug that plugs into the serial port and puts the unit into calibration mode - you then drive in a circle so it can figure out which wheels are which. You can get away without using the calibration adaptor only if you plug a laptop in, jack the car up and spin each wheel in turn and then set them in the setup software. TBH you really want to plug a laptop in and change the default settings anyway as they are a bit harsh.

I've got a cheapo version from Maplin - had it a few years and it works a treat. Very handy having a gas one, gets nice and hot too so you don't have to hang upside down in the footwell for ages trying to solder things to the ECU loom for example.

Just re-use the standard one. You will need one though. You mean the one between the oil feed fitting and the block right?

It's because you can't do a coast down on a hub dyno I believe. Normally on a dyno you let the car coast down from speed to a standstill on the rollers - the rollers then work out how much resistance is being felt and use this to work out the fly BHP. This is why RWHP figures are pretty meaningless IMO, because depending on the number of rollers and how hard the car is strapped down, and where on the roller it is positioned you can get BIG differences in the amount of resistance and therefore torque measured at the wheels due to the tyres deforming. The coast down accounts for this (at least as far as possible) and produces a consistant figure. I think on a hub dyno you just have to estimate the resistance (which is obviously less as there are no tyres in the way).

Sounds like a dodgy ABS wheel speed sensor to me, or the connection between the ABS wires and the RLTC ones.