SimonB

I think the gear ratios are fixed in the regulations for BTCC, or at least the 1st gear one is.

They don't have no engine braking, but they will have less because they'll be running a lower compression ratio than a non-turbo engine so there will be less "resistance" from the engine.

The bit that stevie_b posted is from the distance selling regs, they have a clause that allows admin charges to be recovered. It's for things like delivery charges for goods and for insurance the fact they have insured you for a few days during which time you could have claimed. Also stops people insuring themselves just to tax the car and them cancelling once they have. Bit of a grey area how much they are allowed to charge, and of course it's supposed to be for if you change your mind, not if they get your details wrong!

With the Dash 2 you can hook up the stock rpm and speed signals, or you can get them from the ECU connection if you have a supported aftermarket ECU. It has inputs for 4 analogue inputs plus speed and rpm and ones for the indicators, main beam etc warning lights that are built in. If you want the odo and trip counter on the Dash 2 to work (in other words if you want to use it on the road) you have to hook the stock speed signal in since the odo only works from that. If you just want speed for track use you can use just the ECU input. It reads various stuff from the ECU interface depending on which ECU it is. If you want to hook more stuff up and you don't have an aftermarket ECU you can buy the DL1 which is a data logger. That has a load more inputs which it can send to the Dash 2 via its serial interface. You then would also get lap timing, predictive lap times etc as the DL1 has GPS. Which one is best depends on what you have. If you have an aftermarket ECU then the Stack is not a good buy because it doesn't have an ECU interface so you'd have to tap into each sensor manually (which may not work anyway) or use extra ones. The Motec ones are great but 4 times the price at least of the Dash 2. Or there are the AIM ones which are also good but double the price of the Dash 2.

If it was the MIL (the warning triangle) coming on I would say top up your brake fluid as that's normally the cause. But that won't turn on the engine warning light. Dodgy speed convertor is the other common one, but that should log a fault code.

Ooops, ignore me, didn't read the first post properly and thought it was the MIL that was coming on...

Happy birthday!

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I had a SPA oil pressure/temp gauge in there which I'm taking out because the sensors are now wired into my ECU and can be displayed along with everything else on the Dash 2 I'm putting in.

*bump*

You don't need to remove the sump, the sensor is held in with four bolts - it has a float that sticks down into the oil. Can't remember for sure if the hole where it goes is above the normal oil level but I think it is.

Reminds me of when the F1 medical car ran over Taki Inoue http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nzqZV9V4R-s. You have to be careful pulling out in the safety car as well as pulling in, this is from the WTCC

Of course, have a good time!

Cheers mate!

I'm after a facelift clock - I'm removing the gauge I have in there and can't find my original clock I took out. Thought I'd stashed it away in the garage somewhere but apparently not!

Actually I don't think viper stripes look too bad on the Supra. We had viper stripes as our convoy theme going to Le Mans back in 2005 and 2006 so I stickered up the Supra - 2006 was the year I came up with the shopping list decals that were actually a shopping list too... Here's some pics.

PMd about facelift front fascia and instrument panel...

The neat way of doing it is to replace the metal pipe that attaches to the water pump with one from an N/A. That pipe doesn't go round the back of the block at all. You can only do that if you disconnect the coolant feeds to the IACV and throttle body though (or don't have any). You can then remove the union that screws into the block and screw in a blanking cap in instead. There's some details of what I did in my engine build thread here.

Lots of practice at getting off the line and/or traction control.

Glad it's not just me who suffers from this, drives me mad! Also people who do the same in the queue for a roadabout leaving a huge gap in front until they can be arsed to move, completely failing to think that someone else may not in fact be going the same way as them and may be waiting to go up the slip road to the left, argh! My commute is a mix of an A road and motorway, so my pet hates are: People who leave their rear fog lights on because it was a bit misty 6 weeks ago and they haven't spotted the big yellow warning light on the dash. People who potter along an A road in a huge queue behind a slow lorry because they don't know how to overtake and leave no gap in front for anyone else who wants to overtake to slot into. People who deliberately use the wrong lane on busy roundabouts to save some queuing then push in. Erratic speed. People who speed up when you move out to overtake, then slow down again when you pull back in behind. Incorrect lane use. Basically people sat in the middle or outside lane while not overtaking anything. If someone can undertake you YOU'RE IN THE WRONG LANE! Ahh, feel better now...

Just realised I never posted my details up. It's changed a bit so I'll post the lot again: Name: SimonB ECU: Motec M600 Trans: Manual Turbo: Precision T6776DBB (0.82 a/r exhaust housing) Cams: JUN 264/264 Mapped By: Ryan G Result: 673bhp@7500rpm/525ftlb@6200rpm Notes: 1.5BAR - built engine & head, whifbitz ex manifold, RMR in manifold. Rating: 10/10

Yep, plus the traction control motor and position sensor too in front of that.

You've got the MAP sensor and the intake air temp sensor on there in the pics, the IACV would go where the large hole in the back of the manifold is on the left of the pics.

You don't want to just use a normal high pressure pump to feed a swirl pot, since it will be at low pressure and HP pumps don't work efficiently (or at all) at low pressure. You need a proper LP lift pump.

It can be a total nightmare to get the hot side housings off the turbo, they are an interference fit and once they have been on for a while don't want to come off! I remember having a real struggle with my T67 when I was changing the housing for a larger A/R one. Can't remember how I got it off in the end, sorry!