SimonB

Yeah, and the next time you see it it's magically turned into a TT engine, and Vin Diesel is fitting an intercooler upside down...

These are the people I use, in the USA. http://stores.channeladvisor.com/verociousmotorsports

The most important thing in life is to love someone. The second most important thing is that someone loves you. The third most important thing is that the first two happen at the same time...

This happened to me once (with a Continental tyre, not a Goodyear). It wouldn't balance up - the tyre itself had a flaw that made it out of balance. They sent the tyre back and Continental xrayed it and decided it was faulty and gave me a credit note for a replacement.

Same here.

Yeah, that's the idea of them. You get used to it, and it makes heel n toe changes really satisfying when you get it right. They make a real racket though that gets worse the hotter it gets. I got fed up of it in the end, and having people ask what was broken in my gearbox all the time! I switched back to a standard flywheel when my clutch disc broke.

That will be your undamped lightweight flywheel making the gearbox rattle, not the clutch.

Cream Austin Metro City 1.0L with brown interior (ah, the glamour) Audi 80 sport. Honda Civic 1.6 VTEC (lovely car until I wrote it off) Toyota Celica GT and then the Supra.

That's mad, just get some elthyl glycol coolant from any motor factors. Halfords sell it pre-diluted a lot cheaper than that.

You mean exporting the video after you've finished right? You need to decide what format you want it in. Sounds like you're exporting it uncompressed. You can export it using the media encoder to wmv or something if you want to upload it, or to MPEG2 if you are going to burn it to a DVD. Or you can use DV format it it's come from a mini DV camcorder - that will not lose any quality but be much smaller. Then you can use Encore or something to encode to MPEG2 to go on a DVD later.

Daft question I know, but I presume you've done up the nut on the adjuster nice and tight to make sure it can't vibrate around and change the pressure?

I have one of the first downpipes he made. Things to bear in mind are that as has been said only the older style HKS wastegate fits (unless he's changed them) which you can't buy any more. The Ebay clones used the same flange, but you wouldn't catch me using one of those! Also the downpipe mates up with a conventional 1st decat pipe for a UK spec which you will need. Most other kits mate up to the 2nd decat pipe. It took me a while to find a 3 inch 1st decat pipe, random technology make one in the USA which is very nice. Plus of course you will have to make up your own intercooler piping.

You don't need lamda control, that's for using a wide band sensor straight into the ECU without using a controller. You can hook up an Innovate, AEM etc wideband to one of the analogue inputs without the lamda option. Unless you are doing your own tinkering with the maps you don't need logging either. You can also lock maps on an Emanage IIRC, it's down to the tuner not the ECU. I think tuning japanese is about the only place that locks them. Owens certainly don't.

Actually I disagree with this. A normal dyno measures torque at the roller, NOT at the wheel. The roller can put a lot more friction on the tyre than a normal road, and the number of rollers (1 or 2), where the tyre is positioned (on top or to the front or rear) and most importantly how and how hard it's strapped down can make a big difference. That's why the dyno does a coast down, where the speed is allowed to coast down while the dyno measures how fast it slows. That lets it calculate the drag caused by the dyno and the transmission too, but it's the dyno drag that's important. That makes RWHP the dodgy figure, not the flywheel one. It's not a guess, it's a measured figure. Unless you're on a crap dyno that doesn't do a coast down. Incidently, that is the drawback of hub dynos, they can't do a coast down so for them the flywheel figure is a guess, and the lack of friction caused by strapping down a tyre is why they appear to read higher. They are more repeatable though, as the coast down can be a bit innacurate as the tyre may shift and the friction change when the car is under power.

The Bosch only flows slightly more than a Walbro, 270L per hour rather than 255 IIRC. You simply can't get an in tank pump that flows much more than that, so you either have to go for an external one with all the extra hassle that involves, or twin pumps (assuming you need that much fuel flow of course). I don't see it as particularly risky, I mean how often do you hear of people with pump failures? I can't remember ever hearing of one.

Not true. You will not notice a drop in fuel pressure - that's what the pressure regulator is for. You would only notice at high injector duty when you are needing the extra flow of the 2nd pump. And by the time you've noticed it would be bye bye engine. Obviously if you run 1 wire and 1 fuse you need to use a new wire, not the stock one! Something like car power amp cable is more than up to it. Walbros actually draw less than 10A, but better safe than sorry. You want the fuse to be rated lower than the wire of course - I think from memory I have a 40A fuse.

The only mod to that I would suggest is to run 1 single power wire to the relays with a single fuse. That way if 1 fuse blows you won't end up with only a single pump running and not notice.

The main problem is when you come to a junction - you can't move forward to see if anything is coming. Plus it's very hard to turn your head to look behind you, especially if you have race seats (and you shouldn't have harnesses otherwise). It's even a struggle to reach the stereo controls!

Not if they aren't done up tightly and installed correctly with the correct angle on the shoulder straps etc, which most aren't. But to be road legal they just need approval. The ones with aircraft style quick release buckles are not approved, the plastic ones with a push release like a normal belt are. In any case, you want to leave your normal belts in for road driving - harnesses are a nightmare on the road.

Well, I'd buy you Genna, if only I could afford it...

She's good at spilling drinks isn't she?

You need a special fitting, it's a flange with two bolt holes that you bolt it to the block with and normally a 1/2" NPTF threaded hole in the middle. Then you use a 45 degree male-male -10JIC to 1/2"NPTF union screwed into that fitting and your return hose screws into that. Not sure where you can get them other than in the oil hose kits.

I've got one from a manual car - like you I'm not sure if they are the same but I expect they are. I'd take £60 +p&p (dunno how much that would be, they're quite heavy).

You generally pay some duty & VAT, but remember it's based on the declared value . Also there's a lot of parcels come into the country, not all get inspected.

Nope. Also, people keep saying things about gifts, it makes very little difference if it's a gift or not. Things under £18 are exempt from duty and VAT, this rises to £36 for gifts. So unless it's something cheap you have to pay whether or not it's a gift. Plus to be considered a gift it has to come from a private address anyway.