SimonB

Not much else going on until it all comes back from the machine shop - it's going up there this weekend. Here's a couple of things I did after stripping it down as a quick check. First the crank. The correct way to check for straightness is to put it on V blocks but I haven't got any so we'll cheat . Basically this involves putting the bottom halves of the front and back main bearings (after cleaning them up of course) in the block, oiling them and putting the crank in so it's only supported by those. Then you use a dial test indicator on the centre journal of the crank and spin it round and record the difference between the smallest and largest values. That gives runout. It's a bit of a fiddle setting up the DTI so you can spin the crank without the counterweights hitting it or the probe hitting one of the oil holes in the journal. The maximum runout according to the manual is 0.06mm. Mine was 0.05 - not ideal, but good enough. The crank will be polished so that should bring it back a bit anyway. Next up is the alignment of the main bearing bore. To check that you take the block off the engine stand and lay it upside down on a bench or whatever. The engine stand could introduce a slight warp otherwise. Then you fit all the main caps and torque them down to spec. I'll go into how you do that when I come to fitting them for real. Then you need a precision straight edge - a ruler won't do here. You lay the straight edge on the bottom of the main bearing bore and try and get a feeler gauge between it and the block. If it's straight you shouldn't be able to. I used the smallest feeler I had, which was 0.0015inches, and that wouldn't go, so that's good enough for me!

Yeah, they must have got fed up of people phoning - it's now open to everybody.

We used to have spec sheets in a standard format once upon a time to print out and put in the front window with names etc on. I think it was knocked up for JAE a few years back.

Well, I phoned them up and managed to order one. They have obviously been bombarded by people trying to take advantage, as they asked me to forward the email I received with the offer, and checked my account hadn't just been setup etc. I managed to persuade them to honour the lower price, despite the fact I didn't have the original email to forward (as my email address was set to an old address that would have bounced). So thanks Michael for the heads up! That's two things you've saved me money on in the last couple of weeks. Maybe you should have a regular "Michael's pikey bargain of the week" thread...

Actually, scrap that, someone at work has forwarded it to me now.

I think the reason it's coming up with the higher price is that they obviously sent the email out to certain people and only those people get the lower price when they log in. I just phoned them and the guy wanted me to forward him the email for him to confirm before doing the cheaper price. So could somebody forward me the email please? I had my ebuyer email address set to my old address so wouldn't have got it.

I think Ferrari have it won for sure this year unfortunately, their car looks awesome. McLaren have 2nd sewn up, but Ferrari's machinations have made sure they haven't been able to develop some areas in case they were accused of copying Ferrari. So they're a bit on the back foot I think. Honda will be a disaster, Toyota not much better I think.

Simpler than that, money. It puts it at peak time here in the west rather than in the middle of the night. Which keeps the sponsors happy.

Ok, here's the weights I know of. Carrillo rods 602g (431g rotating, 171g reciprocating). That's from the card in the box so should be spot on. It includes the bolts I believe. JUN pistons 343g, pins 104g (that's from the spec on JUN's website, I'll confirm it when the machine shop weighs them).

Probably not is the answer, but the Ferrea valves aren't that expensive. In fact I don't think they're much more than standard ones if at all. I bought oversize ones as I was planning on a stroker and figured that would be best. As for what determines the rev limit, you're pretty much spot on there Steve I think. Basically the faster you rev the faster the piston's velocity and the more momentum they have when changing direction, so the more strain you put on the rods, pin etc. Plus if you go too high you can get the situation where the valves don't have enough time to close properly - valve float. You'd have to be pretty high for that to happen I think though.

I'm thinking probably 8k rev limit. I'm sticking with my T67DBB turbo, although I may possibly go from a .68a/r housing to .85. So around the 650-700bhp mark. Every garage should have a fireplace... I plastered over the fireplace in my lounge when I moved in so I could put a dirty great TV in front of it! I can tell you the weight of the rods when I get home as it's on the label. I'll get the machine shop to weigh the pistons, I haven't got an accurate scale.

Best not to add it up I find Basically you're talking around £2300 including the oil pump, timing gear, idler pulley etc. Another £600 or so for JUN cams and gears IIRC.

First thing you need to do something like this is a clean garage. A while back I moved everything out, cleaned the floor and painted it to get rid of dust. I've stripped the block and head right down (no pics, sorry!) already. It's going to the machine shop next weekend. While it's there I'll sweep the garage and clean it up again. First pic is my garage, the others are the block and head as it is now, stripped.

ARP main and head studs, a big bag o'gaskets, new oil pump and various other new bits from Toyota...

Ferrea valves, guides, springs, retainers etc.

Ooops, let's try that again...

Carillo rods, these really are absolutely beautiful! Even if you're not a saddo...

First, JUN pistons courtesy of Nic, lovely bits of kit these.

Thought I'd start a thread for my latest project, I'm rebuilding my old engine. Tlicense beat me to it with his thread, and I haven't got his patience with taking loads of photos, but I'll try and document as I go! I'm going to build it myself in the garage, the spec is going to be: Block: JUN 87mm forged pistons Carillo forged rods Power Enterprise rod and main bearings ARP main and head studs & nuts HKS 1.6mm headgasket Ported head with: Ferrea 1mm oversize intake & exhaust valves Ferrea dual valve springs Ferrea valve guides Ferrea locks, retainers and valve seals JUN 264 intake/exhaust cams JUN cam gears So, let's start with the obligatory pics of shiny new bits to get things started!

Yes, because the main source of that air is air that has gone through the radiator and other coolers at the front of the car (and FMIC if you have one).

Eurotunnel charge more if you go for 5 days or more I think. We run into this every year, it's very annoying!

Well, I picked one up today. Got to say, it's certainly value for money considering all the stuff it comes with! You get a paraffin gun, gravity spray gun, proper spray gun, attachment for a garden hose to use as a pressure washer, dinky airbrush, blow gun with extension, tyre inflator, set of adaptors for inflating other stuff and two different length hoses. Oh, and it is 270litres/min accoridng to the box. It's too small for continuous stuff like drilling, but should do the trick driving an impact wrench, and blowing out my engine I'm rebuilding etc.

It's a typo Chris, it's actually 9.5CFM

These cheapy ones the CFM they quote is the pump output, not the continuous amount they can produce, so 9.5CFM probably works out around 6.

Good find, I was about to buy one from machine mart. I found a manual for it online, I'm pretty sure it's supposed to be 270litres per min, which is 9.5CFM.