SimonB

Nah, it's an old internet myth that the 1JZ head flows better. It's been doing the rounds for ages and completely untrue.

You mean the accessory belt I hope - engine isn't going to run too well with the cambelt off!

No DVI connection, I'd go for this one instead from Ebuyer:- http://www.ebuyer.com/product/132860

No to all of those. Auto and manual Jspec and UK/USA are all different. Pinouts for the USA/UK spec are on mkiv.com. http://www.mkiv.com/manual/manualtt/terminals_of_ecm/index.html

Yes they do, they are only available from the USA though. You can also get larger fronts there too. http://www.stillen.com

As I say, we will see if the mains are out of round with the studs - personally I very much doubt they are. The standard bolts are 33ft/lbs and then 90 degrees, whereas the ARPs are 60ft/lbs IIRC, so I doubt there's much difference. Especially given how sturdy the main caps are.

They've done a good job of answering a different question to the one asked there then! They've said you should use the studs if you're line honing, but not if you should line hone if you use the studs! Ah well, we shall see what the measurements of mine are.

Cheers. They are probably just covering their arses. It's like all the aftermarket stuff that says "not for road use". Anyway, we shall see. Oh, and thanks Chris!

If you use the same caps I can't see why there'd be any difference between using studs and bolts. Line honing is only necessary if the main bores are out of round. The straight edge technique I described earlier checks the block end is in line. The machine shop will check each bore for out-of-round (I'd have done this myself if my bore gauge was accurate enough). If they are out then line honing is needed, but I'd be amazed if it was. It's very easy to screw up line honing too apparently.

DO NOT DO THIS on a Jspec, it's basically disconnecting the MAP sensor which is used for fueling. You will destroy your engine.

It's not true that all ECUs are the same. Although the basic idea of setting timing and fueling is the same they all have different features and capabilities. For example, some can only control low or high impedance injectors and some can be configured to do either. Some support certain types of sensor and not others. Some only do wasted spark ignition. That affects whether you need extra things like resistor packs, DLI drivers etc. The build quality and reliability also varies (althouth you tend to find lots of hearsay and not much actually first hand experience here). Also, some are supported more generally my mappers than others. The Autronic for example is supposedly a great bit of kit, but pretty much only Mark Sheady supplies and maps it. He's apparently very good, but what happens if he's miles away, or shuts down for some reason, or is too busy to fit you in? Like anything, you need to do your research. Find out the features and capabilities of each and how that fits in with your setup and aims, what the advantages and disadvantages are, find out who maps them, how they work etc. For example some mappers map only on the road which I personally don't think is the best way - I think you should map on a dyno and then trim and fine tune on the road. It's too simplistic to just say "find a mapper and do what they say". Would you just trust a tuner blindly to make whatever mods they think? I certainly wouldn't, I want to know the engineering behind things, why you are doing something and what the consequences will be. When you are informed you can actually make sensible decisions.

Just a comment about that sales blurb, the stock ones do fall apart with age, and especially if they have been heated by people trying to remove them, but "high horsepower" has absolutely bugger all to do with it. It's a pulley, it makes no difference how much power the engine it's attached to has. The only thing that's going to affect it is the RPM it's spinning at.

They look familiar...

I found a torrent with the Western and Central Europe TomTom map and downloaded that Friday. You'll need a 2Gb SD card, but then you have pretty much the whole of Europe. Works a treat.

Ok, so here is my bearing sizing spreadsheet. The way the bearing sizes work on a standard engine is like this. There are a range of different sizes of crank journals and main bearing caps. Toyota measure them and stamp the sizes on the crank and block. From the sizes you can work out which bearing size you need to give the correct clearance. My spreadsheet works like this. You enter the sizes from your crank and block in the yellow areas at the top. You can also enter actual measurements when you have made them - if so they override the size ranges. So for example if you have measured 66.033mm for a bearing bore with an accuracy of +or- 0.001mm you put that in the measurement and accuracy columns and it will work out the min and max sizes of 66.032-66.034, and which standard range that is (which would be 6). Or if you just have the size number 6 from the block you put that in the size column and it will fill in 66.032-66.034. You can then read the standard size bearing needed from the blue bit in the middle. It also tells you the equivalent power enterprise bearing size, and works out the min and max clearance you would get if you used that bearing. If the figure is blue it's within tolerance, red and its outside. You will see that some of the Power Enterprise bearings have a bigger size range than the standard ones, so sometimes you will find the max or min clearances are slightly out of ideal range. Still fine though. bearingsizer.xls

How weird! He had a broken leg, he said he was moving a trolley, turned round and his leg turned with him and his foot didn't as it was stuck under the trolley. Ouch!

This is exactly why I don't want Clevite bearings. I've always been planning on using PE ones because they have the correct size range. They are not cheap though. There are actually 7 different sizes IIRC - my crank has 3 different journal sizes, I have 4 different main cap sizes and 3 different bearing sizes. I knocked up a spreadsheet that you put the sizes of everything in and it tells you the bearing to use and what the min and max clearances should be. I'll post it up tomorrow if I remember. I don't know how much standard Toyota bearings are, you're right they would probably be absoltely fine, I just figure I may as well put the best I can in - I've saved a load of dosh by building it myself anyway.

Yeah, that's the guy. I spoke to Oselli too actually on the phone. They seemed quite keen to work on it, they said they mainly dealt with older stuff and it was nice to get a modern engine in every now and then!

Well, I've taken everything to the machine shop now, so yesterday I was driving probably the only twin-engine Supra ever. The block, head, crank and new stuff all fitted in the boot no problem, although it did look like I'd had only the rear suspension lowered afterwards. The place I am using is called Gardias Engine Services or GES, in Witney, Oxford. He is the guy that Owen Developments use for machine work and head porting etc. So now the engine is out the way I'll clean up the garage again, and wait for the measurements to order the bearings.

He's the chap from Motec UK isn't he? For some reason Oxford seems to be one of those places with loads of very good mappers, engineering places, machine shops etc.

Mark Sheady is the guy from MA Developments - they are the Autronic specialists.

Mark Harrison is the guy at Owens.

Nope, I just downloaded it from this link: http://www.thepctailor.com/share/downloads/TomTom%20v6.zip There are instructions in there, but basically you just unzip it and copy everything in one of the folders onto a blank SD card.

I've put TomTom on mine now. I tested the turbodog software that comes on it on the way to work this morning and it worked fine, but is very slow when it comes to searching for postcodes. The spoken instructions were driving me nuts too, they are repeated so many times and way to early. You get things like this: In 500 meters, turn right In 400 meters, turn right In 200 meters, turn right In 100 meters, turn right Turn right Arggh! It even said "In 2 kilometers, turn left" at one point! TomTom is working fine on it.

I've had a good close look at the journals, they look pretty good. I haven't measured them yet, but when I stripped it down I had a look at the old bearings and they all looked ok, so I'm pretty sure it will be fine after a polish and won't need regrinding. I'll get the machine shop to measure them after they have polished it so I can get the bearings ordered, then I'll probably double check it when I get it back. I'm going to get them to balance the crank, rods and pistons. I'm going to re-use my crank pulley and flywheel so can't get them to balance with those attached. I'm not expecting it to be out of balance anyway so it shouldn't cost very much.