SimonB

Not necessarily. The bolts stretch when tightened - the tech manual gives minimum thickness of the bolts - you measure them at the thinest point and can re-use if they meet the specs. However, if you're going to the trouble of tearing down the block you may as well replace them.

Check your fuel pump is working correctly by bridging the FP and +B connectors in the diagnostics port in the engine bay and then turning the ignition on. That should run the fuel pump.

No extra brackets or anything, it's just a case of removing the drop links and unbolting the two brackets on each bar that hold them on and replacing the new. The thing that makes it difficult is getting the old drop links off as they are usually seized and very hard to get off, especially without knackering them.

Check the oil pressure and temp sensors and what threads they have. If they are taptered (e.g. NPTF) you should use PTFE tape (or better that loctite hydraulic sealer stuff). If they are parallel threads you should have a dowty seal (a metal washer with a rubber center) or some other sort of seal. There should also be a rubber O ring between the sandwich plate and the oil filter fitting on the block.

Only because some numpty has taken the timing belt cover off in that pic.

It's the no.1 journal (the one at the front) on the cam - it's wider on the exhaust cam so you can put the intake cam in the exhaust side accidently but not the other way round. I remember doing that when I changed cams once!

Happy birthday!

If you're interested in building one (I'd love to someday) there's a really good build diary online from a guy that built a GTR and also a can-am. Really in depth, I spent ages reading it all a while back. http://www.ultima-gtr.info/utitle.htm

Plus the rear tyres are something like 335s IIRC on 12 inch wide rims, so mega expensive if you were doing loads of track days.

For some reason in this country people think you're some kind of nutter if you flash them on a motorway. It's not like that at all on the continent - if you come up behind someone you flash to let them know you are there and want to pass.

The facts are that speeding is a cause in only around 5-10% of accidents. That's according to all the independent research done on the matter. Far more common causes are driving too close to the car in front and failing to pay attention. Which if you manage to be undertaken is exactly what you are doing. There is only one driving lane on any motorway or dual carriageway. The others are for overtaking only. If you are not overtaking and therefore moving faster than the lanes to the left of you then you should not be there. Simple. If everyone paid attention to what they were doing, the road conditions and their own condition and that of their car instead of blindly following the speed limit and thinking "oh, I must be safe, I'm doing the speed limit" the roads would be far safer. That's a simple fact.

Quite right, there are something like 7 standard main bearing sizes and 3 rod bearing sizes. There's no such thing as a standard size bearing.

Driver's and passenger's side front wheel arch liners?

I'd reword the ad a bit, sounds a bit misleading:-

It's not really a 3.1 though is it? Unless I'm missing something it just has 87mm JUN pistons, which would make it 3067cc.

They can all adjust things in closed loop. Say you modify the MAP signal to take off 20%. The stock ECU will see whatever the MAP value is less 20%. It will still try and maintain 14.7AFR so it will adjust the duty cycle up or down to try and get there. It will just start from a different start point than if you didn't have any modification from the piggyback. If you have something like an EMU which modifies the injector pulsewidth, again the stock ECU will try and maintain 14.7AFR - whatever it decides to do will then be modified by the piggyback.

To swap an engine and swap the ancilliaries with the stock turbos etc you'd be talking at least £1.5k I would have thought. A straight swap probably more like £500.

Depends on lots of things. Like do you have a complete new engine to go in with all accessories, turbos etc attached so you can just yank one and drop the other in, or will they need to transfer bits over. If they have to strip the turbos, cams, intake etc off a stock engine and transfer them that will take a lot of work.

RPM is the ignitor (i.e. one pulse per revolution), not the speed, which is the speed as in ground speed of the car in mph/kph.

Plus he'd have charged us 100 quid to write it. Or at least to get his secretary to write it after sitting on his arse for 4 weeks...

Not really. It costs them a lot of money for the equipment and link - you can't just use normal mobile technology to contact a plane, it needs a quite complex satelite link up. Why shouldn't they make that back from people that absolutely must make calls instead of just waiting until they get where they're going?

Not down here, was a lovely sunny afternoon. I wasn't sunbathing! I'd just been for a walk - it's only 5 minutes from my house...

The fuel tank is plastic isn't it?

Spotted a red Supra with a Veilside rear spoiler in Wellesley Ave just round the corner from where I leave a moment ago. Don't remember seeing it around before. Cute looking blonde in the passenger seat . I was just walking back from the beach, you drove past on your way out. Quite loud, could still hear you as I got to my door!

If you search around there's a thread somewhere where one of the guys in the states did actually flow test the heads - the 2JZ flows significantly more as you would expect. There's also something about the GE head vs the GTE. Basically the combustion chamber volume in the GE head is smaller, which is the main reason why the compression ratio is higher for the GE than the GTE. It doesn't flow any better either.