SimonB

It's not that dumb a question, when you're on track you have a helmet to protect your head from hitting the cage. On road you don't, so it could do more damage than not having one. I think most insurance companies will just refuse cover too.

AN fittings should need no sealing - there is a cone on the male fitting that fits into a cone shaped bit in the female. Unless the female bit is a port (i.e. no cone bit) in which case you need a dowty seal which is a metal washer with a rubber center basically. PTFE won't do the job, that's for NPT tapered threads.

Very easy to crack the cam covers too if you do them up too tight. It's supposed to be 5.4Nm, which is 4 ft/lbs. Barely tighter than finger tight.

Yes, I'm a software engineer, I'm aware of ethernet speed, but the point is why do you need that speed? Does it matter what speed the software connects to the ECU at? Any connection is faster than your eye and brain's ability to do anything with the info. I'm not a mapper, so maybe you're right and you would benefit from a faster connection, but it's not obvious to me! Of course wireless might be nice - not that easy to rig up in a car I would have thought though. Same goes for a faster processor. As long as it's fast enough to control things properly it doesn't need to be any faster. I don't need a new ECU, but if I was in the market for one I don't think I'd be interested in those features particularly, that's the point I'm trying to make. Cost on the other hand...

Most of that you have or can have on a Motec, but it will cost more I expect. Faster processor, oscilloscope and ethernet connection is pretty much irrelevant I would have thought. Knock control would be good. Motec have wideband control but it's a cost option (most people have a controller anyway I guess in any case). Input wise, again you could have all those on a Motec but you'd run out of inputs if you wanted them all, it's got 10 inputs in total IIRC. You can get an add on I/O module to add a bunch more but it's not cheap. Sounds interesting though. I'd be more interested in its reliability, build quality, software and support from mappers and the manufacturer than if it's got an ethernet connection.

Not a great idea, as the pump will then continue to run when the engine isn't. Like when you're upside down in a ditch and it's pumping fuel out into your hot engine bay...

You can't compare the two, the exhaust wheels on Garrett turbos are designed for use with larger exhaust housings. My old GT35R had a .81 A/R housing IIRC whereas my T67DBB has a .68.

You have to use the bushes that come with it, the bar is a larger diameter than the stock one. They don't do much apart from locate the bar anyway, it's the bar itself that resists twisting.

Quarry. It's tricky in the wet. Or rather the approach to it is, up Avon rise. There's a crest, and you do not want to be braking as you go over it. Brake before or after or both but if you brake over the crest you can lose the back very easily. Which funnily enough is exactly what I did in the wet on my first track day at Castle Combe. I personally have never had any trouble with the last corner - seems a pretty simple one but people do seem to overcorrect and stuff it into the wall on the pit straight. Just don't try and go too fast too soon and you'll be fine.

If it's been mapped correctly for that boost level 1.6 bar should be no problem driven daily or not.

No, the fuel pump runs when you crank it. Well actually it primes at certain other times too, but basically it runs when you crank the engine. One of the plugs on the back of the clocks is a way of joining some of the wires together so you may well have to have it plugged in.

Whatever it is, it's not a travesty, as that means something which fails to represent the values and qualities that it is intended to represent, in a way that is shocking or offensive. It's certainly a tragedy, but not a travesty. Sorry, just one of those common misuses of English that irritates me.

Would have thought so. I wouldn't really want to go smaller than -10, but should be OK. You need to check what size the fittings are, normally the flange that bolts to the block and the one that goes on the bottom of the turbo are -10AN threads. You normally can only get -10 fittings for -10 hose, and you don't really want the expense and hassle of using adaptors so I'd try and fit the same size.

The one in the BL kit is -10 anyway, so yes.

Someone on here was planning a twin charged setup (supercharger and turbo) ages ago. Don't think anything ever came of it in the end.

Here is a thread with the wiring for a facelift... http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=33991

It's not a serviceable part. The service manual tells you to replace if it has leaked more than a small amount of oil or it can be compressed too easily. They're pretty cheap anyway.

You'll need to buy a new one. They should be very hard to compress.

I think you might find that your clearance would still be easily in spec using ACL bearings then, the difference between 3 and 4 is very small indeed.

They need to stop faffing around with yet more Elise derivitives and get on with the new Esprit already I reckon. This bit made me laugh though: Their engine expertise? What expertise is that exactly, head gasket failure?

What you need to do really is measure your crank journal sizes and bearing cap bore (although that should be the same as the number stamped on the block) and then find the size of the bearings and see what the clearance would be. I've actually decided to go with ACL bearings now as when I did this I found the clearances would all be fine. For reference the sizes that ACL make three different size ranges, STD, 0.25 and .25 oversize (the latter two are for reground cranks). For the STD ones they do a standard clearance version (the H) and a +0.001" clearance version (the HX). For the STD size ones the sizes are: con rods H=1.506mm HX=1.493mm mains H=2.004mm HX=1.991mm The H mains correspond to size 4 standard bearings and the con rod H ones are size 2 standard ones.

It has virtually no effect on the fuel consumption. And certainly far less than the drag from having the window open.

No, it just means it was bright when you did the test. Or dark, can't remember which is which now.

They are not made by Cosworth, only JUN pistons are. Their cranks, rods and cams are made in-house. I have JUN 264 cams to go in my new engine, but haven't assembled it yet.

I've got some pistons and rods I don't need that you're welcome to. Haven't got a crank though as I'm reusing that.