SimonB

I disagree with that last point, it's a critical component. If it fails, or doesn't maintain the correct pressure, or doesn't increase it with boost correctly etc it could very easily destroy your engine. So there's no way you should use a cheapo unknown ebay special Chinese jobby unless you enjoy engine rebuilds... Known reliable makes should all be the same though.

Can't help with the rest of it, but I know GPS receivers use a standard protocol called NMEA. I believe Motec requires that the GPS supports a particular subset of the main standard which I expect most units probably do. I think they also require you use 19,200baud for serial. So you may find a 20Hz GPS can't actually transmit its position quick enough at that rate, not sure.

I've gone back to A plan at Thatcham this year - Sky couldn't get close. None of the classic type schemes (e.g. Lynbrook, Footman James) would cover anything substantially modified.

It's not actually. Not on a TT anyway. Stock static fuel pressure (i.e. with the engine off) should be 33-40psi. So basically 36psi. I've seen loads of people saying it's 42 but that's incorrect. It's different for the NA, that should be 38-44psi which is I think where the mistake comes from. There's no way I would buy a cheapo unknown component that could easily destroy your engine if it fails. That's completely bonkers.

Are you sure it's not a split intercooler hose or one that's blown off?

It does yes, no idea why you would want to remove it.

Yes, for engine cooling you want to make sure that air can't escape between the bumper opening before going through the rad. So if you have a gap underneath between the fmic and rad a lot of air will escape down there rather than go through the rad. Same goes at the sides and the top since you normally have to remove the stock ducting there. You're probably right that if the fmic wasn't ducted to the rad you would just get air bypassing the fmic and then going through the rad anyway, but only if there is nowhere for it to escape first. Not much point in having a fmic and having air bypassing it anyway of course!

Duct the intercooler properly if it isn't already and get hold of an undertray would improve things definitely.

Inside diameter 6.010-6.030mm. The valve stems should be 5.970-5.985mm for the intake, 5.965-5.980mm exhaust. Which gives a clearance of 0.025-0.060mm for the intake and 0.030-0.065mm for the exhaust. Stock guides are 38.5mm high for the intake and 40.5mm high for the exhaust. They are supposed to protrude 12.3-12.8mm on the intake and 11.4-11.8mm on the exhaust.

Think I'd be more worried about the joints and whether they would stand up to 120psi or more of oil pressure. Braided hoses would be much easier to route too. Plus they should be protected by the undertray anyway.

It's on the VIN plate under the bonnet.

Can't do tonight, but might be up for it next week Charlie. Been ages since I've been to a meet!

Ah sorry mate, should have read the thread properly I guess! Good luck with it.

It's easier to just put the clutch plate and disc on the gearbox input shaft, attach the box and then bolt the plate to the flywheel through the inspection hole. Then you don't need an alignment tool.

Make sure you disconnect the electrical plugs too - when I pulled my engine and left the gearbox in the car I forgot one and couldn't figure out why the engine wasn't coming out. I ended up breaking the wires and having to resolder them!

Will do, cheers!

Bit of a long shot, but I need a replacement aircon pipe as one of mine has a hole which is right by the connector and therefore can't be repaired properly. It's the long high pressure side section that runs from the rear bulkhead all the way to the front of the car where it joins the next section by the battery - the section with the pressure sensor in. I have a facelift car - I'm not sure if the facelift part is the same, it has a different part number but may be the same. The part no for my car is 88716-14230. Toyota parts are telling me Toyota say it is no longer available new and they can't supply one. Not entirely sure I believe them but there you are! Pic of the pipe in question attached.

Probably the speed signal to the power steering ECU has gone. If you have a kph/mph convertor I'd check the wiring. If it's wired wrong the car can think it's going slower than it is and it gives more assistance. If it goes completely you'll get max assistance all the time. It would normally throw an error code though.

It's not cheap, £200 for 3 nights/4 days! They also change per person, not per pitch. It does have its own pub, decent showers & loos, and you get breakfast and dinner (which we didn't actually know when we booked!). There's a free minibus to/from the circuit which no doubt we'll end up missing and get stranded at 4 in the morning... It's south of Mulsanne somewhere. We basically left it too late to book Houx, and we can't be arsed with the non-allocated space camping areas these days since someone has to get there early to reserve a decent pitch for the group. http://www.le-man-camping.co.uk/

I'll be there as usual in the Supra. We'll be in Le Bounty this year instead of the usual Houx though. It's a fishing lake out from the normal campsites so they have a bus to and from the circuit. Full english breakfast every day though! The pistonheads meet is there this year too on the Friday. Not doing stickers this year, can't be arsed...

What I did is use a separate stand-alone LED wired to the two wires that turn on the orange low fuel warning bulb on the standard dash. One is at 12V all the time, the other is switched to ground by the fuel sender by a separate low fuel warning sensor in the tank I think. Basically there are 3 wires going to the fuel sender in the tank, ground, fuel level and low fuel warning. The fuel level one I have teed via a resistor into the +5V reference on the dash2 and into the analogue input. The low level one goes to the -ve of my led and +12v goes to the +ve. Must admit I never thought of just using a low warning threshold on the dash2 rather than a separate light! If I can't figure out why it's on all the time I might just do that. I was asking if on a standard car the low fuel warning comes on with the ignition - just because it's easier to test if I don't have to keep starting the engine all the time.

I've taken out my stock dials and put a race technology dash2 in their place, my new setup is all working fine apart from my low fuel warning light which for some reason is always on. It's basically an led wired into the same place as the stock bulb. The fuel level is working ok - that's wired in to one of the dash2's analogue inputs via a 100ohm pull up resistor and gives a sensible reading with a full tank. Can someone tell me if the low fuel light comes on when you turn the ignition on before starting along with all the other warning lights? Anyone with an aftermarket dash had this problem?

You can do this by adding on an external data logger with an ECU interface. The race technology DL1 springs to mind with their ECU interface - works out about £650+VAT which is considerably cheaper than a Motec dash! Plus you get a GPS to do track mapping, timing etc. There are some restrictions on what parameters are carried across on the ECU interface though, you can't log everything.

Don't worry about it Tony, it will be fine. That's where mine has been for ages. I bought an adaptor rather than drilling my sump plug though, plenty around to go from M12 to 1/8 NPT. Good find on the sensor, mine is the one that came with the SPA oil temp gauge I used to have and have now taken out - looks very similar.

FP and B+ (they are labelled under the lid). Turn the ignition on and it will run the pump. Make sure you use a decent gauge wire and don't leave it running too long.