SimonB

I thought (could be wrong though as I can't remember where I read it) that the stock ECU stores the adjustments it last made at a particular map point while in closed loop. Kind of a long-term trim value. So if you reset it it would take a bit longer to settle down to 14.7AFR while crusing/idling/low load. EDIT:Ah, in fact Wilbo has just said the same!

Like what? All that info is freely available from the electoral role.

They can't do anything with that information, but I bet if you sent it off you would get a reply asking you for your bank details, or asking you to pay a handling fee or something.

Next, I was going to put the head on but struck a slight snag! Anyway, before I found that out I'd installed the head studs - just nipped up with an alan key, pic 1. I made double sure the head and block surface were spotlessly clean and put the head gasket on, pic 2. I'm using a HKS 1.6mm gasket because the Jun pistons are designed to have a standard 8.5:1 compression ratio with that thickness of gasket. I installed a new union on the intake side of the head - the old one got damaged at some point and I had to remove it. Pic 3. Then I lubed up the threads of the studs, the washers and nuts with ARPs grease, and put the washers in the head. You need to do that as they won't go through the holes in the head after the stud is in place. Then I lowered the head on - this is a right fiddle and I had to use a pair of forceps to jiggle a couple of the washers on to the studs properly. In hindsight it may have been better to put the studs in after placing the head in position. That's about the point I realised ARP in their Americanness use 1/2inch nuts for the head studs rather than 12mm. I haven't got a 1/2inch deep socket and the one I have got is too shallow so I've had to order a 1/2inch deep socket.

Another couple of bits on, cam position sensors back in the head, pic 1. Oil level sensor back into no.1 sump - for some reason the engine rebuild gasket set doesn't come with the gasket for that so I had to order a new one, pic 2. Brass water drain plug, pic 3. I had to order new couple of studs for the no.2 sump as the old ones were knackered. Those arrived so I applied good old loctite 5910 in the pattern in the engine manual (basically along the groove and around the inside of the bolt holes) and bolted sump no.2 on with the many bolts and 2 nuts.

Not really! It just means it has the EGR stuff on the head which you'll have to buy a kit to block off. Complete engines from the US suppliers sites are $2325 for the shortblock and $1125 for the head. That's without cams or valves. So you're probably looking at around $5000 in total with shipping - around £2700 (if you got charged full VAT and import duty it would be more like £3300)

I drove mine as a daily driver every day for six years. The only reason I'm not doing so at the moment is the fact that the engine is currently knackered so it's sat on the drive.

No, it's your brake fluid. Top it up even if it looks like it's above the line. One of the most common "faults".

You have been advised incorrectly I run a T67DBB on mine and it made 625bhp. I'm probably going to go slightly larger on the turbine housing with the new engine, we shall see what that makes...

I've got one. It does make a difference, the J spec and UK spec ECUs are different. £80? I presume it's a TT we're talking about here?

It was a bit rough, not too bad though IIRC. I'm sure as hell not taking it off to have a look though!

Few more bits bolted on next - first the baffle. Then the oil pickup with a new gasket. Next the crank position sensor goes on. Then the two knock sensors. Then the oil cooler union and the oil pressure sensor - for these you need some thread sealer, I used loctite 577. The 2nd pic shows this lot, from the left its the oil pressure sensor, 1st knock sensor, oil cooler union, 2nd knock sensor.

Next I fitted the rear oil seal and its housing. It's easier to put the rear seal in the housing before fitting - I used some hylomar blue on the outer edge and MP grease on the inner, then hammered it home flush with the outside of the housing with a nylon hammer. See pic. Then you apply sealer around the groove using a 2-3mm nozzle - I used loctite 5910 which sets slower than 5900 and gives you a bit more time which is handy when it comes to the sump later - and bolt it on. Next the oil pump, a brand spanking new standard Toyota one. First you fit a couple of new O rings to the block passages. You need to refer to the manual to show you where to apply the sealer. You have to be very careful to make it a neat job and not to gunk up any oil passages. Then you just bolt it on. I put the front seal in after fitting the pump. As with the rear seal I used hylomar blue around the outside and MP grease on the inside. Then I used a bit of drainpipe which happens to be the same diameter as the seal to tap it home. It's very important not to tape it in any further than flush or you will block the drain hole, which would be bad! Then it's the 1st sump. Again, fit a new O ring to the block, then it's time to apply the sealer. For this you need a 3-4mm nozzle on the sealer. Again you need to pay close attention to the diagram in the manual telling you where to apply the sealer as it's not entirely obvious. Once it's done you bolt it up, there are loads of bolts - see pics.

I needed to order a few bolts from Toyota to replace sheared ones, so I thought I'd put the cams in the head and measure the valve clearances so I could figure out if I needed any more shims at the same time. Before doing that I checked the oil clearance for the camshafts by installing them dry (i.e. no lube) with plastigauge on the journals. It was a bit tight actually - right on the smallest end of the tolerance. To check the valve clearance I first measured the size of my current shims with the micrometer - I had kept them with the relevant buckets and labelled up so I knew where they went. I recorded those then put the buckets and shims in the head on the bench. Then I fitted each cam in turn using plenty of assembly lube and the method in the service manual, which tells you which position to put each cam in and the order to torque the caps up so the cam doesn't get bent. You obviously have to be careful doing this on a bench that the valves have somewhere to go rather than hitting the bench! I was using a workmate type bench with a gap in the middle so I could make sure. Then it's a case of measuring the clearance for the valves that have the cam lobes pointing upwards, then rotating the cam using a spanner on the hex until the next lobes are pointing straight up and measuring those and so on. You measure the clearance using a set of feeler gauges - start small and work your way up until it will no longer fit under the cam lobe. The clearances are supposed to be 0.15mm - 0.25mm for the intake and 0.25-0.35mm for the exhaust. To work out the size of shim you actually need you aim for the middle of this range, so that's N=T + (A-0.2) for the intake (where N is the thickness of the new shim you want, T is the thickness of the old one and A is the clearance you measured. It's N=T + (A-0.3) for the exhaust. You may well find that by swapping them around you can re-use what you have. There are 17 sizes of shim, from 2.5mm to 3.3mm in 0.050mm increments. In my case all the intake clearances were OK - I just need to swap a couple round to get them all bang into the middle of the range. The exhausts were all too big by miles so I've had to order 12 new bigger shims for that side. By the way, the buckets and shims are one of the things I cleaned up and re-used, along with other bolts and bits and bobs. To clean them I left them soaking in engine cleaner overnight, scrubbed them with a nylon brush and then bunged them in the dishwasher with some normal dishwasher liquid! You have to get them out as soon as it's finished, dry them and spray with WD40 to stop them rusting, but they come up a treat.

Love the pic... It's correct too!

That would be cool. I don't think anyone has come up with a standard data format though. You could use a wireless adaptor and show the car in front's data on your gauges .

Bit of a hijack, but you don't need to buy the lamda option for the Motec. That is only needed if you want to connect a sensor directly up to the ECU and have it control heating the sensor etc. If you have a wideband controller already (or a gauge) with a analogue voltage output you can hook that up to one of the Motec inputs and use it straight away. If you didn't have an ECU and were deciding which to buy I the Solaris looks like an interesting option, on price etc, it looks very godd. But if you already have a Motec, it doesn't offer you anything extra as an end user that would justify swapping I don't think. Apart from perhaps knock control but then you shouldn't be in danger of knock anyway with it mapped correctly.

Why would you want to do that if you already have one?

How does that help? Vaughany was asking about turbine housings on the T67. You can't compare A/R on different turbos, the exhaust wheels are designed for different conditions. My old GT35R had a 0.82 A/R exhaust housing as that's what the turbine wheel was designed for. It was still a smaller, less powerful turbo.

Have you got the engine manual? There's a load of checks in there for checking stock valves - diameter, seat width etc etc.

I guess you'd have to use a clutch switch. I can't see how you'd get it synchronised though. Anyway, that's half the satisfaction of driving a manual car, when you manage a perfect change .

Thanks for that, pretty brave doing it on your own! At least I know it's possible, I wouldn't even have thought to try doing it on my own.

Lol, good one. At least you can laugh about it!

I presume it's nothing to do with Solaris as in the operating system from Sun? Or is it? Bit of a confusing name for a company in a sort of similar field! The other thing I haven't seen asked which people might be interested in is can it handle the stock idle control valve? I guess it would use up 4 outputs?

I'll be at the point where I'll be swapping mine in soon. I see you went for the gearbox and all method rather than leaving the gearbox in. I haven't decided which method to use yet, how easy did you find it?