SimonB

Can't really see from those pics what the bores are like. Those bits of metal don't look good though! Both sumps are sealed with sealant, there's no gasket.

Halfords are indeed a help, since their professional sockets are all bi-hex! In any case the head bolts have a female bi-hex in them, so you don't use a socket, you use an allen key. You can't use a normal hex socket on a bihex bolt, but a normal hex allen key will fit in a female bihex as found on the head bolts.

Just use a 10mm allen key socket, it'll be fine.

Wouldn't surprise me if people that had them fail were running dodgy "lightweight" non-damped crank pulleys - that's far more likely to cause failures I would have thought than simply extra power.

Yeah, but why should the amount of horsepower the engine is producing make any difference? It's only a belt going round.

I had the same problem with mine - despite writing a list of jobs to remind me to undo it before removing the current engine I still forgot! My impact wrench made no impact on it... I used some box section jammed between two pegs on the flywheel and the garage floor.

Sounds like rubbish to me. Can't think of any reason why an engine with a single would put any more strain on the belt or tensioner than a stock engine. Never heard of anyone having one fail either. A new stock one is going on my new engine

That was on Owen development's dyno. It's a .68 A/R housing at the moment, which is what pretty much everyone with a T67 runs I think - it's a Precision turbo and that's the default size I think. Haven't really decided yet but I think I might try 0.81.

I have a T67DBB on one of Arnout's manifolds. It made 625bhp with the last engine, it should make more once I've finished building the new engine as that one has a ported head and I'll probably change to a larger A/R exhaust housing.

M12 x 1.25. The actual gearbox mount bolts are no good - they aren't long enough for an engine stand. You need to get hold of some longer bolts from elsewhere.

I got toasted enough for all three of us, don't worry... I have to say well done to Bournemouth council/tourism/whoever - it was a great idea and very well organised. The hangover has just about gone now. Here's some pics from my phone. Amazing how many boats turned out - apparently there were 600 moored up.

I was there yesterday and thought it was brilliant! It was a gorgeous day, the red arrows were fantastic as usual and it was great being smack in the middle of their display area and being able to see the whole display perfectly (plus very handy being right by the bar . The thing I really liked was the Blades display team - they were amazing, and technically are an airline, you can pay to be their passenger! They had a load of tethered hot air baloons on the gardens in the evening - that was cool too as they lit up when they fired the burners. It was absolutely rammed, quarter of a million people there apparently!

Just call them big brakes and little brakes, or 4 pot and 2 pot. It's one of the reasons people think all Jspecs came with small brakes, which they didn't.

Good question mate! Basically it gradually started burning more and more oil. Smoke on boost and when getting back on the throttle after lifting off, which led me to think it was rings or possibly valve guides. At this point I started sorting out the rebuild of my other engine and driving it like a wuss. Got about half way to Le Mans this year and it started misfiring. I ended up nursing it the rest of the way and back on five cylinders - got home and there's zero compression on no.6 cylinder. Charlie and I had a peek in with his endoscope but we couldn't see anything obvious like a dirty big hole in the piston! Could be a stuck valve or something but the cams still turn normally. I'll find out when I take it to bits, pretty interested to find out!

PMSL at this thread, RWD Prelude, hee hee! Incidentally, 2.2 Prelude weighs 1315Kg, NA Supra weights 1430Kg, so not a lot heavier.

I've got my current engine out now. Took a bit longer than I thought. I was hoping to get it out Monday but I had to finish off yesterday as I lost the light before I could see why it wasn't coming out! I went for the engine only method rather than taking the gearbox out too - my garage is very small and there's just not room, plus my hoist is only capable of lifting 250Kg at maximum extension. I had to run the front into the garage as my drive is on a slope, which is a real PITA as you then can't get under the side. So you have to get under the front and shimmy back - my shoulders are now aching big time! It's worth planning ahead and making sure you've got everything disconnected beforehand rather than end up disconnecting things with it dangling! Having said that I still forgot to disconnect the speed sensor and reverse light connection from the gearbox and snapped the cable - will have to solder that one back together. It's quite funny looking at the front ride height once I'd put the bonnet back on and pushed it back down the drive, looks ridiculous!

Ah yes, that one has helped me out a few times.

There should be a little diagram on the underside of the bonnet near the catch. On Supras at least.

The Halfords Professional range are just as good and also have a lifetime guarantee.

Can't take any credit for that Paul, the machine shop cleaned it up in their parts washer before (and after) they worked on it. It is lovely and clean though!

My 1/2 inch deep socket turned up earlier in the week so I could fit the head. It's a 3/8 drive and fits perfectly as you can see in the pic with no need to modify it so that's good! So I torqued up the head in three stages following the order in the engine manual (this is very important). I used 70ftlbs with the ARP assembly grease, so I tightened them to 40ftlbs, then 55ftlbs, then 70ftlbs. Then I installed the cams. I had already measured the valve clearances and ordered and installed new shims for the exhaust side, and swapped some of the intake ones around to get the right clearances - I'll double check them again later. Again with the cams you torque the caps up in the order given in the manual. When you install the 1st cap you first apply sealer to the underside, see pic. That's pretty much all the assembly I can do before taking the other engine out to strip stuff off it - I'm hopefully going to do that this weekend.

No, that would make no difference.

Looks ok, you want the fourth support on the stand bolted up as well though. Plus it's a good idea to try and get the center of the stand in the middle as it makes it easier to turn over on the stand. As for the oil leak, that looks like a leaking cam cover - quite common.

With a narrowband lamda sensor only to go on all it can do is guess the fuel adjustment, then wait and do it again. If it only had a single short term trim it would overshoot and takes ages to settle. With a long term trim it can use that in combination with the short term one to settle faster. Plus I think it might use it as a basis for cold start running too when there's no lamda signal to go on.

I think you'd need the CAN interface rather than the serial one for the Link. Same for the Motec M600 - the serial telemetry output from Motecs is only on the M800 and M880. Looks like good value, some of these digital dashes are very expensive. Can't justify buying one myself unfortunately!