SimonB

There are 2 gasket kits you get from Toyota. One is the head set, the other the full engine set. The head one comes with the cam cover gaskets, cam seals, valve seals etc. The full one also has the front and rear main seals, all the turbo gaskets, and the head gasket. Plus some other things you'll need like an O ring between the sump and block, a couple between the oil pump and block, another one for the water pump and some other stuff. I think you'll find Nic the cheapest for this stuff, and in fact pretty much all Toyota bits, if you don't mind waiting a bit for it.

If it's set for MAF, which 724 is instead of 740 it will totally cock the fueling up, so yeah, set it to 740.

I'm pretty sure it's 740. I think 724 is for the MAF sensor (i.e. toyota hotwire).

I'd check the MAP sensor wiring, if that's not connected you'll get that problem. Also the rotary switch settings - you need different ones for a Jspec from the ones on MOHDs site because it's a MAP sensor not a MAF.

Yeah. The Recaros are pretty light I thought, I can't see them weighing 42Kg. Were they standard ones?

He doesn't build engines himself, he has an engine builder he uses to build engines for customers. There's basically three types of people involved in engine builds I guess. First are the "resellers" like MVP, PHR, traders here who will get your engine built for you by someone else. Then there are the Chris Wilsons who build engines but don't have the machinery so use a machine shop to do the actual boring, head porting, valve seat cutting etc. And then there are machine shops that do the physical stuff. Most of these guys don't actually build engines.

That would be cool, it's a pain knocking up wiring harnesses and really hard to do neatly. Mounting things neatly is a pain too, if they had a bracket or something that fit the stock mounting points it'd be very good.

You can't get JUN pistons in stock size, only 87mm (1mm oversize). I think porting the head is definitely worth it, but doesn't come cheap.

No single turbo is a bolt on. You'll need a manifold, intercooler pipes, intake, injectors, engine management, wastegate, downpipes, etc etc. You're looking at £10k for a proper setup. In any case you can change the valve stem seals without taking your turbos off - or in fact much apart from the cams. See Tony's extremely comprehensive guide in the tech reference bit of the site.

You're probably better off buying an old ECU off someone and reusing the connector. You could probably re-use the case too as a way of mounting your new ECU (if that's what you want it for).

Lol! I'd forgotten that one. The legendary "where are the turbos" thread... I like the "stupid things" thread as well, Jake's superglue incident was a classic...

Another vote for Verocious here, I use them for bits of pipe, silicon hose and reducers and clamps and the like.

Which type of TRD LSD is it? The one for the larger early diff or smaller one used on later cars?

I hope you mean Toyota! Loctite 5910 is what I used for the sump, (5900 is the same but cures faster so you don't have as much time to work with it). That's what lots of OEMs use when assembling engines, I know Ford do. The Toyota stuff is probably the same, but it's much more expensive.

Most are either 86.5mm (i.e. 0.5mm overbore) or 87mm (1mm over). The exact size you bore to depends on the actual pistons - you measure each piston and bore & hone to achieve the correct clearance, which varies with each piston manufacturer.

I joined in December 01, a month or so after I bought my Supra. Seems like a very long time ago now!

Unfortunately you can only get stock pistons in the stock size. So if you bore it out 0.5mm you have to go aftermarket.

I presume you're actually talking about the plug cover rather than the cam covers?

There's a fantastic build diary here: http://www.ultima-gtr.info The guy has built a supercharged Ultima GTR as a track day sort of car and a Can-Am with a much more mild road-car spec, proper interior etc. Loads of info on his site.

Are you sure you have the clutch disk on the right way round?

You just need a gear puller - I have a Machine Mart one.

Cliff, you forgot Hadrian in your list of Roman Emperors. Although, to nick a line from Terry Pratchet, what most of these people would be thinking if you resurrected them is "why is it so dark in here".

That's going to look great. Are you going to put anything on each side of the dash bit? I suppose you haven't got anything that needs to go there if the dash is replacing all your guages and stuff. How have you actually done it, is it just filler?

Stock pumps don't cause the seal to blow. Dirt and grit and contaminated oil and poor installation may do. All the modified pumps do is enlarge the drain hole behind the seal slightly - there's no way there should be anywhere near enough oil behind there to need it if everything else is correct.

There's a lot of rubbish talked about rolling roads. It's true that the power at the wheels figure is pretty meaningless. That's because the friction between the tyre and roller depends on lots of things, largely how many rollers there are (one or two) and how hard the car is strapped down and at what position on the roller. That is why rolling roads do a coast down at the end of a run - this is used to work out the losses so you get an accurate flywheel figure. People still seem to think that the "at the wheels" figure is the accurate one though, despite this being basically wrong! The thing that can affect how accurate they are is the fact that the tyre can squat down and distort when it's under power compared to when the coast down is done. Hub dynos may be repeatable, so great for comparing things, but not much good for absolute power figures as you can't do a coast down on them so you have no idea what the losses are and have to guess to produce a flywheel figure. Of course the other thing that affects the final figure is the fudge factors that are applied to compensate for air temperature and pressure in the dyno cell. Unscrupulous operators can stick in a stupidly high ambient temp for example - the software will then increase the power reading to compensate as there's a standard temperature that power readings are supposed to be measured at.