SimonB

Has anyone got the Apexi RSM with the G sensor and actually set up the loss power thing? It's got a mode where you put it in neutral and let the car coast and it draws a graph of the loss. You can then adjust the loss in PS for each increment of 10Kph to match the plotted line. Only snag is you need a flat straight road to coast down while everyone wonders what the hell you're doing ! I had a quick go but the losses it plotted seemed pretty high for a manual RWD car. The instructions aren't exactly clear either, so maybe I was doing it wrong ?

Some news for those still after a Fields Harness. For those who don't know, the Fields harness is a loom that goes between the ECU loom and the ECU and allows you to wire stuff in to the ECU easily because you don't have to hack into the existing wiring loom and you can do it at a bench, not upside down in the footwell. Fields have stopped making them, but MVP motorsports in the USA said some time ago that they were looking into making their own copies. Anyway, I asked them about it recently and the good news is that they are definitely going to make them, and that they should be available in about 6 weeks. They say they are going to improve them by colour coding some wires and charge around $200-$225.

Ok, here's a piccy of where it is now. The stereo sticks out a fair bit atm, but I haven't figured out what exactly to do about that yet...

Now he tells me . Anyway, that thread just had the wiring for the main ignition wires in. The manual I got had details on the handbrake thingy. I used one of those Halfords CD-holder/cubby hole things, and glued a bit of plastic to the front, cut to fit the hole in the dash surround. I cut a hole in the plastic bit to fit the timer in and stuck a couple of bits of wood to the back that it sits against. Kind of hard to describe. The Blitz one also has a black box hide-away unit that I have mounted in the cubby-hole bit. Anyway I've moved it now to make room for my Apexi RSM. I moved the stock TC buttons to the right-most switch area from the middle one. Then I cut the divider out between the left and middle switch areas and mounted the timer behind there. Again kind of hard to describe. I'll take another photo...

Check out this thread for the wiring if you fit one to a facelift car. They changed the connector and the colours of the wires from the diagram on mkiv.com.

It's pretty easy, but not part of the wiring harness. There's a wire going to a switch on the handbrake that's used for the handbrake warning light. The timer will have a cable that you just tap into this under the centre console. If you have a facelift car you might find you can't get a wiring harness. I ended up having to wire my Blitz one in myself, which was a bit more of a pain.

There are three choices as standard AFAIK, normal cloth, normal leather or Recaro cloth. The Recaros started with the facelift cars, on the RZ. They're quite easy to spot - they have Recaro written on the headrest bit in big letters ... Andrew's electric leather Recaros must be an aftermarket mod I reckon...

Nah, all the satellites do is transmit a time signal. The box itself uses the difference in time signals from two or more satellites to work out your position, then the rate of change of position to work out your speed. There's no communication back from a GPS receiver to the sat, it's one way only (otherwise you'd need some kind of dish, tracking system and a bloody powerful transmitter).

See this thread for what I paid for a rear wheel bearing a while ago from my local Toyota dealer....

Does anyone know the dimensions of the control box ? I'm moving some stuff in my dash soon, so it would be nice to make sure I've got room for one somewhere while I'm at it - RLTC is definitely on the shopping list

Which is why I have a bill from Toyota for the whole lot . I'd always get everything changed personally, especially for critical things like wheel bearings, but I didn't know if it was essential to replace all the nuts and other bits n bobs - sounds like it is. They charged 2.6 hours labour btw.

Yeah, pricey isn't it. Mind you this is Toyota, so you probably don't need to replace half the oil seals etc etc. And you might be able to haggle a bit I suppose...

I think you do have to do it from "inside" the bumper, but I also think you can get at it by taking off the wheel arch lining rather than the whole bumper.

Ok, here goes. This was from my local Toyota dealer when I had one replaced. This was for a facelift car, but I imagine they are the same. There are loads of oil seals, circlips and god knows what else: Needle bearing 125.45 Circlip 1.59 Oil seal 16.51 Deflector,w/brg 18.63 Nut 1.95 Plate, Lock nut 5.69 Pin, cotter 0.16 Oil seal 21.16 Total 191.14 (224.59 inc VAT) Plus a shed-load for labour of course. I've got the part numbers if you want.

I was just waiting for someone to say that! Hadn't washed the wheels for ages when I took that so they were covered in dust and crap. That's my excuse anyway...

For future reference and comparison, here is a picture I took of my big brakes a while ago when I was finding out which ones I had (I have a facelift with 17" stock wheels and the big brakes)...

Is it a warning level ? The + and - buttons would let you set the level at which a warning light or buzzer or something came on ?

That's what I did, piece of cake. I was going to rig up a toggle switch that cut power to the trac ecu (same as pulling the fuse) and switched out the bulbs as well, so I could use this switch as a kind of "master override" switch, but I couldn't be arsed...

Is it the panel from the top of the inside of the glove box ? There's a panel in there that covers an electrical connector.

I finally got fed up with mine flashing and took the bulb out. Dunno if it's the same on a pre-facelift car, but on mine you just take off the top bit of dash, unscrew the bit where the warning light is and twist and remove the bulb. It's a bit like a Christmas tree light...

It's electrical, and more of a boost indicator than a gauge. The maximum on mine corresponds to about 0.5 bar. The only calibrated mark on it is the 0, which is accurate. It's only use is if you were cruising down a motorway or something and wanted to stay off boost to save fuel. I've got a Blitz turbo timer that has a built in digital boost gauge. You couldn't really read it as you are driving (not safely anyway!), but it records the peak boost and has a warning, so I use it for that and use the standard gauge as a rough guide to what's going on.

It's worth getting the rears balanced as well. I had a vibration that turned out to be a defective rear tyre that made it impossible to balance that wheel properly. I had the fronts balanced a couple of times before finding the culprit. It was a brand new tyre as well, and looked fine. Must have had a lump somewhere. It was suprising how much it effected the whole car - the steering was juddering making it feel like a front wheel.

It's www.trlperformance.com. Quality piece of kit, delimits the car and leaves the power steering etc as it should be. The steering feels much heavier and better at medium speeds when it's being fed the proper signal.

Cheers guys. I won't bother replacing them then. I'm off on holiday tomorrow, so I'll do it when I get back. In fact I'm quite tempted to just go down the local exhaust place and get them to do it. I'm just too lazy to exert myself undoing bolts...

Anyone know the part numbers for the gasket that goes between the 1st CAT and the turbo elbow (or whatever it's called) on a Jspec ? Oh, and the bolts that hold it on as well ? I think I'd be there all day if I tried to find out from Toyota... I presume it's a good idea to change these while removing the CAT ?