SimonB

Normally, if the ECU sees boost of more than 15psi (11 is stock) it assumes something is wrong and shuts down the engine until boost drops again, by cutting off fuel. This is fairly dramatic, and lights up lots of warning lights! Pete's gizmo raises the level from 15psi to around 18psi (it's adjustable), which is generally seen as the highest level you should run without fueling mods. Other makes tend to completely remove the cut, which can be dangerous if you overboost drastically, as the engine will run lean and lunch itself. There's some more info on Petes website. Fitting involves cutting a wire going to the ECU and soldering the unit in between, and splicing it into a power wire. It's pretty easy as long as you're confident soldering wires with not much slack.

Pete's web page is at www.trlperformance.com. You should also get a boost gauge to check you're not overboosting, preferably one with a warning / peak hold. I use a Blitz turbo timer for this - it has a built in boost gauge with warning and peak hold.

Nice, same as mine! I would say the induction kit isn't necessarily an obvious mod on a Supe though. Have a search on here, there's been a fair bit of discussion about the pros and cons of these (warm air from under the bonnet rather than cold air from outside, poor filtration etc). Opinion seems to be split about 'em.

You do for radar/radio, but not for light, otherwise you'd need a license to turn your headlights on That part of the spectrum is free for anyone to use.

Looks like the control unit for the boost gauge, to let you set the warning level, display the peak value etc. In fact it looks like one of the "system" ones that can control a whole series of gauges. Dunno much about Apexi gauges though, so I could be wrong. Looking at the first pic it looks like you plugged the gauge straight into the sensor. You probably have to plug the control unit into the sensor (and a power source) and then the gauge into the control unit.

Nope, there's still an RZ and RZ-S. If you look at the model number on the chassis plate, the second to last letter is: Q (RZ), S (SZR), V (SZ or RZS), Z (GZ) Mine's E-JZA80-ALFQZ, so it's a 97 facelift RZ, with Recaros and big brakes. I found the Japanese 99 brochure on mkiv.com, which clears up some confusion. Looks like the RZ was manual only, the RZ-S was manual or auto, so probably all facelift autos are RZ-Ses. Here are the models: RZ (TT, big brakes&wheels, Recaros, manual) RZ-S (TT, small wheels&brakes, non-Recaros, manual or auto) SZ-R (NA, small wheels&brakes, non-Recaros, manual) SZ (NA, small wheels&brakes, non-Recaros, manual or auto) The brochure goes on about REAS as well, but that only came in on later cars. Oh, and I've just thought of another couple of facelift/non-facelift differences. The front bumper had a horizontal splitter, and the facelift came in gunmetal. Like you say though, I think you could have most of the goodies as options on RZ-Ses anyway. The link to the whole brochure is here. Pretty handy stuff, and some nice pics too

I think it will just cut the injectors completely with no power, because in the troubleshooting section of the manual I remember it has a "Car will not start" section which goes on about checking the fuse and that the 12V supply does not go to ground when cranking. You can always unplug it and plug the connectors together if it blew up though (Assuming you had a screwdriver with you of course...)

The facelift and VVTI are independant things. The facelift came in in 96, the VVTI engine in September 97. Cars in between (like mine) are facelift cars but with the original engine. I think the 98 thing refers to US market models. Other facelift differences: Front spoiler and side plastic bits are grey not black. They changed quite a bit of the wiring so the plugs and wire colours are quite often different when you come to fit things. RZ models had Recaro seats. Dash is grey plastic, not black. There was also an optional carbon fibre dash as well I think. The dials are speed, revs, and small temp, boost and fuel (although the boost gauge is fairly crap). The odo is in the middle of the speedo and is a manual-style one, not electric (though the workings are the same) I think the others have been said already (lights, front indicators, TC, new ABS etc). With the brakes on the facelifts, I think it's the case that the RZ had the large brakes as standard, and the RZ-S had the small ones as standard, but you could have them as an option. Dunno about the GZ. Basically you don't automatically get the large brakes on a facelift.

If it was wired into the loom using the multi-way plug thingies that Racelogic supply you should be able to unplug it and plug the two remaining plugs together to restore the standard injector wiring. That will let you check the wiring of the plugs on the loom and ECU side and establish that it is the RLTC causing the problem. e.g. from: loom->plugA->plugB->RLTC->plugC->plugD->ECU to: loom->plugA->plugD->ECU Incidently the VVTI ABS wiring is the same on facelift cars without the VVTI I think (I can't see Pete's first diagram to compare). The wires for that are in this thread. That's what I used and it works fine, but I haven't got a VVTI, so dunno about the ECU wiring. You could always take the RPM wire from behind the RPM gauge in the dash I guess ?

I was thinking about this the other day. Can you actually get complete pedals rather than the bolt on alloy jobbies ? Don't think I've ever seen any. Don't really like the idea of bolt ons, but some genuine alloy pedals might be nice...

All this confusion with chassis numbers probably comes about because there is a separate model number, engine number and frame number. The model number is the E-JZA80-* one where E is for Japanese. The engine number is 2JZ-GTE 2997 on all TTs (GT on NAs) and the frame number begins JZA80-*. See www.mkiv.co.nz. So which do they look up ? Model, engine or frame number ?

Definitely interested of course - especially with track day cover. Mine's not due until next Jan though.

It's all fitted now and set up with one of Terminator's DAT files. I had a bit of a nightmare trying to get the pin things into the bloody plastic connector while suspended upside down, but not too bad really. I put the box where the stock TC was, which is perfect. What a fantastic piece of kit. I gave it a quick try at a nice quiet wide T junction. Gave it plenty of throttle in first and just hurtled round the corner and off up the road, engine spluttering. Very impressive.

And here's where it is now...

Here's a picture of where I started off mounting it: http://www.simons-house.freeserve.co.uk/TT.jpg

I've got one that I fitted myself. Pretty easy really, especially if you have the cable harness. There's a hide-away control box and the little display thing. With a harness you would plug this into the ignition switch plug. You then have to tee a wire into the cable going to the handbrake switch (or you can just leave this - it just makes sure the timer switches off if someone takes the handbrake off). Only tricky part is getting the tube for the boost gauge bit through into the engine compartment. It's a bit fiddly - use the gommit either where the clutch pedal would be if you have an auto, or in the passenger-side wing if you have a manual. You have to find somewhere to put the control unit and the hide-away bit as well. Mine started off mounted in a blanking plate under my single DIN stereo, using a cubby-hole/CD storage thing you can get from Halfords.

This thread has the ABS pins for facelifts in. That's what I used the other day. Mind you, I haven't actually tested it yet .

Ok, here's the next question. In the manual, it lists the injector inputs/outputs in order as: Red Orange Grey Green Yellow Pink So I assumed that these were for injectors 1-6 in that order. But, on the pinout later on page 28, it has them labelled like this: Pink IP1 Grey IP2 Green IP3 Yellow IP4 Orange IP5 Red IP6 So, which colour should go to which injector (I know what the colours are on the Supra ECU harness, just not the RLTC) ? Or does it not matter?

Thanks guys. I think I'll take out the stock TC ECU and put it there, didn't think of that one

I've done this too. My first cat is removed with a CW pipe and the second one is still there. With a Nur Spec my peak boost is 1.17bar, more usually around the 1.1 level.

Yeah, I've mounted the controls. I took the box apart and mounted the button, knob and led in the dash to the left of the steering wheel. Looks great. I was just wondering about mounting the ECU bit, but it sounds like it should be OK floating around behind the carpet, or stuck with some of those sticky pads or something. I haven't got room on top of the ABS unit because of the sheer amount of gadgets and wiring down there !

I did the dash side of my RLTC install this weekend (the ABS wires and integrated the controls in to the dash) while I had the dash in bits to do some other stuff. Probably going to do the ECU wiring next weekend, but where has everyone mounted the RLTC unit itself (the ally box) ? I'm guessing in the passenger footwell on the transmission tunnel by the ECU, because the cable isn't long enough for anywhere else, but have people bolted it down, or just stuck it somehow ? I get nervous about drilling holes in my car...

You need to disable the stock traction control now you've got RLTC. Just take the fuse out, and you probably want to take the warning bulb out from the dash as well to avoid having an annoying flashing warning light the whole time. Saves you having to switch it off every time you start the car.

Exactly the same for me, they all recognise me. Good stuff that Optimax, and at least you know that all the Shell garages will have it, not like SUL when you never know if they will or not, and even then it's always on one pump over the other side of the garage!

I wouldn't bother. I've yet to see one worth the paper it's written on. They usually don't cover anything that's likely to fail, and even then only if it fails completely. For example, I had a rear wheel bearing with too much play in it - it was about to fail. The warranty didn't cover it because it hadn't actually catestophically failed! Turbos might be covered, but I doubt it. You'll have upgradeitis before long....