SimonB

When you pull the trac fuse on a J spec at least it stops the trac system doing anything, monitoring or otherwise. As a warning that something has gone wrong and you no longer have any traction control the orange "trac off" light flashes constantly, which is very annoying if you took the fuse out deliberately. To get round this you take the bulb out! The green light comes on to indicate the system is cutting power, and shouldn't come on either with the system off or with the fuse out. I actually took the entire trac ECU out when I installed my RLTC, because I wanted to put the RLTC ECU in the same place. But I'd pulled the stock TC fuse ages before because it was annoying me...

With the fuse removed you shouldn't have to switch the thing off - the trac light should just flash. Drives you mad until you take the bulb out . Dunno which fuse it is off the top of my head though - I'll have a look tomorrow. If they were both on you wouldn't get the engine cutting out - probably the RLTC would cut in first (on wet mode anyway), then if the slip got too high you'd get the stock one confusing things.

There's no way the green light should come on with trac off, let alone with the fuse removed. In fact, doesn't the "trac off" light flash when you've removed the fuse ? It did on mine, but mine is a facelift which has the updated trac system (it has snow mode).

Yay, another local Supra! I'm in Christchurch, and should be up for this - couldn't make the BBQ thing.

An English translation of the manual and wiring diagrams are on the Apexi USA web site: Manual Wiring diagrams Looks bloody confusing to me though! I think the second output is for certain cars only and needs some optional extra interfacing doobry to work.

The complete 95 electrical manual is on http://www.mkiv.com in the tech section. Most of it is the same, but there are some differences - mainly just the colours of the wires for some reason.

Old argument this one, but I believe they were standard on facelift RZs, but optional on GZ or RZ-S models. There's a Jap brochure on mkiv.com somewhere for the 99 car with the model specs in. Where's that thread.... ah, here it is.

There's a wire you can tap into on the clock I think for illumination. The way it's wired on the Supra is a bit weird though. There's one wire that's +12V when the lights are on, and a variable ground that varies from 0V when the light dimmer is on fully bright to +12 when it's turned right down. Since add-on gauges only have one wire, you have to connect this to the +12V one, which means the light on your gauge won't dim when you dim the other lights.

Guy at work came up to me in the car park the other day and said he'd just come back from France and seen a load of Supras at the terminal before they all roared off. Spotted by proxy...

It did win I think. It was defo a 350Z that won anyway. Great day anyway, and cheers to lovatt for sorting me out some sandpaper & stuff to sort out my headlight. I haven't got up that early on a Sunday in living memory...

Mine does that occasionally as well (TRL). Never bothered doing anything about it though.

Went to the FOS on Friday, execellent as usual, but the traffic was a nightmare this year even no the Friday, so it'll be mayhem on Sunday I reckon. Oh, and anyone going tomorrow, you really need to check out the Toyo stand, trust me...

It turns in pretty well, bit of understeer initially, but Ok then. I've not had it snap into oversteer anyway. I though 0 toe on the front was the normal setup anyway ? It doesn't really suffer from poor straight-line stability, although it does get a bit floaty at very high speed. I guess the problem is I've never driven another Supra, so nothing to compare it with really.

When I had new tyres on a few weeks ago, I got them to check the alignment. Here's the results: front L camber -0.46 front R camber -0.55 front L and R toe 0 rear L camber -1.74 rear R camber -1.97 rear L toe 0.29 rear R toe -0.03 Now I know what the rear toe is supposed to be in mm from good old mkiv.com, but this was measured in degrees. The printout has the specs as between 0.05 and 0.25. So what effect is mine being slightly out likely to have ? Tyre wear seemed normal on the old tyres (i.e. inside edge first) and they lasted long enough. Is it worth correcting or is it such a small amount that it's not worth it ?

I'm going Friday this year. The last couple I've been on the Sunday, but it's was just too busy last year. There's a guy having a serious go at the hill climb record this year apparently, in a Pikes Peak Toyota pickup with >900bhp! The current record was set in 99 I think in an F1 car and was so dangerously fast that the organisers banned timing the F1 cars. It's a very cool event, anyone who likes cars and motorsport should go.

Not quite that high, 11psi = 0.76 BAR, but obviously the boost you'll see will vary a bit with temps etc.

Stock boost is 11psi.

I usually go for "If it ain't broke, take it to bits, fiddle with it, try and put it back, then break it and say it needed replacing anyway"

Yeah, that occurred to me too, in which case they should be pointing up. Maybe whoever put the last set on just put 'em in upside down. They seem to work fine though, so I was reluctant to change them round.

I changed my UK spec brake pads today and noticed that they were mounted with the pad spacer clip thingy at the top, with the arrow on the anti-squeal shim pointing down. The diagram on mkiv.com seems to show the clip at the bottom, not the top. I suspect that it doesn't matter which way up they are, but does anyone know ? I put the new ones on the same way up as the old ones anyway. Diagram from mkiv.com:

That's the ABS ECU behind the stereo, the traction one is next to the ECU in the passenger footwell (at least on a manual car anyway). I removed mine when I installed RLTC with no problems, but mine is a manual, and pre-VVTI. I'm fairly sure the label on it was ETCS too. I guess the VVTI must have a drive-by-wire throttle by the sounds of it ?

It's an original, here's a (very crap) scan : http://www.simons-house.freeserve.co.uk/tirepressures.jpg But it actually says 33psi (well, 2.3 kg/cm2 anyway), not 31. So much for my memory, good job I look at it before checking pressures really. Of course it might actually say "Whatever you do, don't inflate the tires to 33psi"...

http://www.mkiv.com has got a lot of the service manuals on-line here. It's for US spec cars but there aren't many differences.

You'll probably be OK with the front cat still in I guess but better to be safe. You don't need a turbo timer as such, but I like the Blitz one because it measures boost too. You could just get a normal boost gauge and put it where the clock is, or in the eyeball-style air vent. That's what most people seem to do.

My jap spec handbook thingy says 33psi all round for 17s. Maybe because it's hotter in Japan that here ? (Edited because my memory is bad and it actually said 33psi, not 31 as I originally said...)